Stroker questions for night owls- HELP!

thaduke2003

New Member
Sep 2, 2007
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Alright- I just pulled apart my 302- it's a late model, 1pc. rear main seal, 50 oz. balance hydraulic roller piece, carbed, and in an '85 GT with T-tops. My rod bearings are all pitted to hell (it looks like dirt or somesuch got in!), and my pistons are pitted from detonation (the previous owner didn't take great care of it, and I just bought it and am now stuck with his mistakes), so I'm looking to replace the pistons and rods, and was thinking what a great time to stroke it... The motor, I mean...

By the way, my goal is STREETABILITY- it's a daily driver, so I don't need a 550 WHP monster- 300 WHP or so would be more than enough :) Here's the list so far, though:
Edelbrock Performer 600 electric choke carb
Summit Stage 2 IM
Stock E7 heads- should be getting a little port/bowl work done, CC matched, and decked (if needed)
Comp Magnum cam (440-8), roller lifters, retainers, valve springs (740-16), locks, seals
Valves to be determined by the machine shop, as will pushrods and guideplates, if necessary
2.5" pipes- no cat, no emissions stuff anywhere, really :)
K&N airfilter- no snorkels
Maybe a few other bits in there that I forgot...

Anyway, I'm on a major time budget (this wasn't really planned- started getting bad noises on decel [rod bearings, I now know] last weekend, and I JUST finished the teardown an hour ago), so I'm on an in-stock, off-the-shelf situation. All help is greatly appreciated! Anyway, onto the meat:
I am looking at stroker kits and rotating assemblies on Summit's website, and everything seems to be 28 oz. balance, and 2-piece rear mains- can I make this work on my car? I'm pretty sure I just need a new harmonic balancer and flywheel, then balance the assembly to 28 oz., right?
Also, any ideas on what's good/what's junk? I'm looking at a basic Scat kit (331 CID), but can be swayed. The problem- I need it yesterday- I'm due to move to NC the beginning of next week, and I have THIS WEEK to machine, re-assemble, re-install, and tune everything. Yeah... I know I'm screwed, so HELP!
Sorry to sound nuts, but it's been a LOOONG week of beating my head against the wall.
Thanks in advance! Mark W.
 
You are not going to make your deadline. I've read through your post and that is the thing that has jumped out at me as being the most important point.

Set it all aside and find a way to trailer it to where you're going to be. If you attempt to rush through this process, you will still not meet your deadline and will likely piss money away on things that either don't work, don't match, or you broke.

It will take you a week just to get all the parts you need to the door. Gaskets, bearings, blah blah blah, not to mention the machine work etc.

So instead of driving yourself nuts trying to pull this whole thing together, use your time to plan a way to get your roller out to your new digs.
 
I already have the proper gaskets and all- bearings the machine shop has- everything's on its way to the machine shop tomorrow- they're just up the road, have a ton in-stock, and have set aside the next 3 days just for me (don't ask what that took! :))
I know it's an unrealistic deadline, but it's what I'm trying VERY hard to work with- at the ABSOLUTE latest, I can take next week off as well, but then $$ becomes an issue.
Anywho, my main concern for now is what works, and what doesn't. Time I can take care of, but doing it right, I need some help from people who know.
I appreciate the grounding, however- it helps after 13 straight hours of working on the car (that makes a full 93 this week!)- cheers, and still asking for help :) Mark W.
 
If it were me, I needed it now, and had the time to put it together myself, I'd call up Coast High Performance and tell them what I have and don't have and see if they would drop ship me a rotating assembly along with any pieces/parts that I was lacking.
 
Alright- I've heard a lot of good stuff about them. Sigh... sorry for sounding desparate like an ugly girl on prom night- it's just been a long week with a lot of new problems with the car, broke up with the girlfriend, and I've just had it with NY- can't WAIT to get to NC and start over, and the landlord's already giving me a hand with moving and all, the job's being held for me- I'm just tired of asking favors, ya know? Thank god it's Monday! A new day, hopefully things start going better, eh? Mark W.
 
Well good luck bro. I would STILL be looking for a way to trailor the whole thing out there. I've done motors on short deadline before (my own being the most recent) and lemme tell ya.... they NEVER go as planned unless you've got all the time in the world. Something always crops up that sets you back.
 
Yeah- I know- I come from Hondas- NOTHING is ever in-stock (for the new K-series motor- I specialize in those) or on the shelf, so if something breaks or is the wrong size, etc., too bad- wait... But I'm doing what I can with what I've got.
Wish me luck :) Mark W.
 
If you don't need 500 hp capable parts, just order a complete rotating assembly, etc, and get as much from one vendor as you can so that it is compatible.

Most strokers are 28 oz, as it is easier to balance, so you need a matching balancer and flexplate/flywheel.

Set aside some time with a grinder to check the block for clearance and grind where needed, and clean the block again.

Make sure you get pistons sized for the bore you plan to end up with.

Otherwise, it should bolt together easily.

I'm headed that way soon, but not in much of a hurry.
 
Yep, your time limit is going to cause an issue.

I would go here:

http://www.coasthigh.com/Assemblies/Ford/ford_331.htm

and get the kit 11413-SF. It is the first one.

You will need a new balancer and flywheel, in which coast high sales.

Your machine shop should cover your rear main seal.

You will however need to buy new headgaskets, oil pan gaskets, timing cover gaskets, intake gaskets, thermostat gaskets, header gaskets, etc.

You probably should have looked into options before you tore it down:)

Good Luck.
 
Well, I was just going to re-use the bottom end bits until I saw them- the pistons were in bad shape- 2 cracked skirts and lots of caked-on goo (carbon, coolant, etc.)- and the rod bearings were all showing signs of major issues, plus carbon scoring in the cylinders- nothing all too major, but just enough...
Anywho- talked to Coast- they reccommended (and I agree) that I go with just a plain-Jane poke-and-go; my time budget doesn't allow for potential problems- a .030" over piston set (TRW) and Scat stock replacement rods and a refurbishing of my factory crank should keep me out of trouble, while the 331 kit is on the way for my backup block (which is where I'm stealing some other parts from, but it's in NO shape for driving yet)- thanks for the advice y'all- sorry for the lame ending. In the meantime, I'll be building a decent ~9.7:1 cammed street motor- I'll post #'s when she's done on the engine dyno! Cheers, and best wishes- Mark W.
 
Anyone else have experience with DSS? I was going there for a 347. I have not decided between a kit with a block, or just buying the assembled shortblock.

From the sounds of it, maybe buying the kit and assembling it would be a good shot, so that I check all the clearances?

I really did not want to do that, due to time constraints these days.
 
A DIY on that is fine if you have time- I have experience with that in my old Big Block Chevy days, but if anything's off, it's a pain in the ass getting on the phone, getting stuff shipped, returning stuff. The money you'll save will likely hardly be worth the headache most of the time, unless it's a garaged project with no deadlines- then it's all good :) Mark W.
 
You really need to take your time putting your engine together and be sure everything is right. I had the shop do my bottom half and I done my top half in just a few days, but I put several hours a day into it. All it takes is a screwup leaving a bolt untorqued or something simple like that and you just trashed it. Also a big mistake of myn was not going to a 331/347, it wouldn't have cost hardly anything more for me to do it, for all new crank, rods, and pistons.

Oh yeah, where you moving at in NC? I live in Asheboro, a 30 minute straight south shot from greensboro.
 
You really need to take your time putting your engine together and be sure everything is right. I had the shop do my bottom half and I done my top half in just a few days, but I put several hours a day into it. All it takes is a screwup leaving a bolt untorqued or something simple like that and you just trashed it. Also a big mistake of myn was not going to a 331/347, it wouldn't have cost hardly anything more for me to do it, for all new crank, rods, and pistons.

Yeah, I was nearly in the same boat at the time, but I knew it would cost me another $3-400 for the stroker end, and then I had to buy a new flywheel/balancer combo, $500-$600 for what I wanted.

I just couldn't come up with that $800-$1000 at the time, or I would have:nice:

Our combo's run so similar. What is your race weight? I ended up with 87.31 mph @ 8.27, if I recall. 1.95 60 ft.
 
Well, I had complications with my wisdom tooth removal (all 4 impacted, 2 pinched nerves- OWW!) and look like a chipmunk, so I'm on bed-rest- so I just bought myself a few more weeks. I do have to take it easy (you'd be amazed, but even just standing or sitting, you clench your jaw muscle=oww!), but I'm waiting for the engine to get back from the machine shop anyway- turns out I had 2 bad valve guides. So it's all KINDA working out, but I'm over budget on $ and time, and with no chance to work, it's gonna be close! Wish me luck, and quick healing :)
I'll be in Statesville, Mooresville area- Race City, USA baby- lots of Foxies down there! Not sure how far that is from you man- let me know! It'd be good to know SOMEONE down there! Cheers- Mark W.
 
Anyone else have experience with DSS? I was going there for a 347. I have not decided between a kit with a block, or just buying the assembled shortblock.

From the sounds of it, maybe buying the kit and assembling it would be a good shot, so that I check all the clearances?

I really did not want to do that, due to time constraints these days.

i had one of there cast crank FT 331 kits. (went 10.5's@128) 3020lb car
i had no problems