Strong block for a 347

[JUCD 5.0]

You have a Viper and you are worried about spending $1,500 on a block that will be the last block you ever own?



As for a custom camshaft, that should be the last thing you purchase. This way, it matches all your cube and induction components.

I prefer Ed Curtis for a couple reasons over the "other guy(s)".

- Actually is a member on this site
- Does not trash talk this site like the "other guy (s)"
- I, as well as hundreds of others, have had great success.
- His attitude is better
- He has been doing it longer

Yah i plan on waiting on the cam until after i've figured everything else out, then someone can build me a custom cam. I'll look into Ed Curtis, seems like you know what your talking about.

Just because I have a Viper dosen't mean I'm rich by any means lol, i bought my Viper, modded it to the hilt, bought a house, bought a 99 4wd Full size Dodge Ram, lifted it, added exhaust, step bars, yada yada yada. So NOW I am limited by my girl on how much I can spend.

So yah I can't be spending that much on just a block, because then I have to spend the $ to have it machined to a 347, stroker kit and just stopping there I'll have over 3500 in the motor and I have a TON more stuff to buy, headers, intake, camshaft, exhaust, exterior upgrades including a paint job, new wheels, full performance suspension upgrade etc etc etc. IF I was ONLY doing the motor then I would definately buy the dart block BUT right now I don;t think I can swing it or else this project will go from a 6 month project to a 8-10 month project and my girl is giving me crap for spending more money on my cars.


Is the dart block really only 1500? I thought it was actually more then that?

 

[Rick 91GT]

Yah i plan on waiting on the cam until after i've figured everything else out, then someone can build me a custom cam. I'll look into Ed Curtis, seems like you know what your talking about.

Just because I have a Viper dosen't mean I'm rich by any means lol, i bought my Viper, modded it to the hilt, bought a house, bought a 99 4wd Full size Dodge Ram, lifted it, added exhaust, step bars, yada yada yada. So NOW I am limited by my girl on how much I can spend.

So yah I can't be spending that much on just a block, because then I have to spend the $ to have it machined to a 347, stroker kit and just stopping there I'll have over 3500 in the motor and I have a TON more stuff to buy, headers, intake, camshaft, exhaust, exterior upgrades including a paint job, new wheels, full performance suspension upgrade etc etc etc. IF I was ONLY doing the motor then I would definately buy the dart block BUT right now I don;t think I can swing it or else this project will go from a 6 month project to a 8-10 month project and my girl is giving me crap for spending more money on my cars.


Is the dart block really only 1500? I thought it was actually more then that?

Around $2000 for a Sportsman

 

[Jasperstang308]

You have a Viper and you are worried about spending $1,500 on a block that will be the last block you ever own?



As for a custom camshaft, that should be the last thing you purchase. This way, it matches all your cube and induction components.

I prefer Ed Curtis for a couple reasons over the "other guy(s)".

- Actually is a member on this site
- Does not trash talk this site like the "other guy (s)"
- I, as well as hundreds of others, have had great success.
- His attitude is better
- He has been doing it longer

5spd
lets be above the rest what do you say? just because some people bash others doesnt mean we cant stop it correct?

to the OP the R intake would be a nice intake for your build.

also check out summit for the tie bar lifters you will need or talk to the cam grinder and they will recommend the valvetrain you will need

 

[5spd GT]

Juiced - My mistake, actually it is right at 2k for a new one. At the time I was thinking of a used aftermarket block like 2000xp8 stated.

Jasper - I am a bit bias of course I just hate to see someone gain business by trashing everything "under" his forum. He even trashes your forum.

The Trickflow-R intake is a nice one

 

[PJC Racing]

Jasper - I am a bit bias of course I just hate to see someone gain business by trashing everything "under" his forum. He even trashes your forum.
QUOTE]

Show me where.

 

[5spd GT]

PM which forum and I will PM you back where. I will not do it in this thread.

 

[JUCD 5.0]

Thanks for the help, looks like the trick flow R intake is what I will be buying.

Looks like I have to start selling some of my ould stuff asap, i'm planning on tearing the motor apart this weekend, since I pulled it out of the car a few days ago. Selling my old stuff should bring in some money for the new parts

 

[JUCD 5.0]

Which R intake are we talking about, there are two R series trick flow intakes aren;t their. One flows like 75 and the other 90? Are we talking about the track heat or the R intake. Their both considered the R series.

 

[JUCD 5.0]

a 70mm mass air and 70mm throttle body will be enough don;t you guys think?

 

[5spd GT]

Which R intake are we talking about, there are two R series trick flow intakes aren;t their. One flows like 75 and the other 90? Are we talking about the track heat or the R intake. Their both considered the R series.

There is a Trickflow Track Heat.

Then there are two versions of the Trickflow R intake.

One has a 75mm throttle body opening and one has a 90mm throttle body opening.

I will go ahead and list them all from their website:

Street Burner (Street Heat)
* Small cross-section 15.000 in. runners
* Idle-5,500 rpm range
* 75mm throttle body inlet
* 2.000 in. x 1.200 in. port size at cylinder head
* 10.200 in. overall height to the flange
* No taper

Track Heat
* Small cross-section 12.200 in. runners
* 1,500-6,500 rpm range
* 75mm throttle body inlet
* 2.000 in. x 1.200 in. port size at cylinder head
* 10.200 in. overall height to the flange

Trick Flow R-Series
* Large cross-section 12.000 in. runners
* 2,500-7,250 rpm range with 75mm upper
* 3,000-7,750 rpm range with 90mm upper
* 75mm or 90mm throttle body inlet
* 2.000 in. x 1.200 in. port size at cylinder head
* 11.000 in. overall height to the flange

Trick Flow Box-R-Series
* Large cross-section 9.750 in. runners
* 3,000-8,000 rpm range
* 90mm throttle body inlet
* 2.000 in. x 1.200 in. port size at cylinder head
* 11.500 in. overall height to the flange

The above Non-Box R-series has two different openings as I stated, but the 90mm opening intake says it has a larger powerband. Do not believe that. It is uneffected

We are talking about the Trickflow R-Series intake. It is the third listed on the list

Edit: I would do a 75mm TB (if that is the intake opening size you choose), and an 80mm MAF.

 

[JUCD 5.0]

Awesome, thanks for clearing that up for me.

 

[JUCD 5.0]

I currently have Harland Sharp 1.7 roller rockers. Will these work well with my 347 also?

 

[PJC Racing]

I currently have Harland Sharp 1.7 roller rockers. Will these work well with my 347 also?

You said your plan is to go with Edelbrock Victor Jr. heads right. If you Harlands are 7/16" stud mount rockers, yes they will work for you. Just remember you will have to measure for correct pushrod length when change everything over.

 

[JUCD 5.0]

You said your plan is to go with Edelbrock Victor Jr. heads right. If you Harlands are 7/16" stud mount rockers, yes they will work for you. Just remember you will have to measure for correct pushrod length when change everything over.

Yes I already have the Victor Jr heads, which have been on my 306 for about 3 years, I also have chrome molly pushrods because the stock ones rub on the guide plates and wear them down so i had to get the stronger pushrods. The chrome molly pushrods I have now SHOULD to my knowledge work fine with the set up i'm going with, right? I mean if they worked on my 306, then they should work on the same size block.

 

[PJC Racing]

Not necessarily, Deck height could vary, lifters will vary, and head gasket thickness could vary. Add them all together and the legnth will probably be different. When building a engine this is one of the things you always check/measure.

 

[Rick 91GT]

I dont want to be ignorant but you need to decide on the intentions of the combo you want which is sounds like you have some ideas, then if you truly want to build the motor yourself you need to do some research...there is a lot more to building a motor then just assembling it. That is a major reason you see such a wide range of ET's on the strokers, some 347's run 10's, some run 13's.

Pushrod length is different on every motor, deck height, gasket thickness, head milling etc all effect the length.

Rear gear, weight, tranny style all need to be taken into consideration when putting a combo together. The proper runner length intake means a lot when matched to a proper cam profile.


PJC You'll be very happy with the Team Z suspension, Dave is a great guy and awesome fabricator. The parts and design is second to none.

 

[PJC Racing]

PJC You'll be very happy with the Team Z suspension, Dave is a great guy and awesome fabricator. The parts and design is second to none.

Yeah, I already installed the Team Z frame rails and anti-rollbar. K-member is next. Dave makes one hell of a quality part and his customer service is outstanding. I have been very happy with dealing with them.

 

[giddyup306]

A 3.40" stroke in a Boss block is not ideal, the cylinders are shorter then stock and with that stroke it pulls the rings way, way down...WHY they made it shorter I have no freaking clue.

Rick,

Is that just the new production of BOSS blocks or does that include the 69-70 blocks? I know that they made some "improvements" with the new castings.... I don't remember the deck height being any shorter but then again it was several years ago when I built my BOSS 347.

Mike

 

[giddyup306]

Damnit double post...

 

[5spd GT]

He is talking about the new BOSS aftermarket block I am sure.