Stumped

[slave4thestang]

ok, my 87 5.0 gt is running terribly. it seemed liek it was runnign rich so ireplaced the coolant temp sensor. no luck. its nto blown head gasket the timign is dead on and it passed compression. its sparkign oragne on all cylinders so doyouthink my coil took a dump or coudl it bemy computer went tits up. because the vacum lines are goodthe fuel pressure regulator is fine and the cap rotor wires and plugs are new same withthe o2 sensors and the egr valve.

 

[795.0pacecar]

Check the codes. Your just shootin in the dark replacing random things, and its getting you know where. IAC is a sensor you didn't mention, but it could be bad.

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

+1 on pulling codes. Do you have any mods? How's your fuel pressure?

 

[slave4thestang]

no m,ods except fora k&n and an exhaust. whatsan IAC. and i dotn haev a scanner to get the codes

 

[slave4thestang]

oh no the iac is fine. its brand new. i had to redo the throttle body when i got it it woudlnt idle worth a damn.

 

[slave4thestang]

and my fuel pressure is 35lbs steady

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.

Wal-Mart may now have the LCD display scanner for less than $35

 

[Glaze]

does this equus unit scan airbag codes or even the AUTOXRAY EZ-READ 2000? lookin for the least expensive scanner that does both obd1 and airbag

 

[slave4thestang]

thanks. i just picked up a complkete mustang service manual for reference and im gonan pic up a scan tool form matco i get a 50% discount since im taking mechanics courses.

 

[HISSIN50]

oh no the iac is fine. its brand new. i had to redo the throttle body when i got it it woudlnt idle worth a damn.

Speaking of brand new IACs, what brand is it? It's a nice idea to make sure the IAC mounts conventionally - some don't. And sometimes when idiots in stores open a box, dump and stare at the contents, and decide they don't want it, they toss the little note indicating the need for the unusual mounting.

I actually couldn't follow what it is that's wrong with your car, so this might be neither here nor there.

Good luck.

 

[6SpeedLX]

this might seem weird but make sure your distributor turns freely..mine wouldnt and i overlooked it for a little while till i pulled it and noticed it needed about 30 ft/lbs of force to turn, then i figured out why my car would run pig rich and shudder violently below 2500 rpms..it wasnt sparking fast enough

 

[jrichker]

I actually couldn't follow what it is that's wrong with your car, so this might be neither here nor there.

Good luck.

I had the same problem, so I guess it isn't just me..

English is sometimes a second language for people who don't have a first language...