Sub Frame Connectors

[1967project]

I have been looking at sub frame connectors and have a few questions.

1. Is round (tube) better than square tubing?
2. Is it better to have them installed with the engine in the vehicle? I once saw a episode of hot rod TV and it showed installation of them with the engine in and the car on jacks, more toward the center of the body, so that the weight would "bend/ force" the body back to its original straight line.
What do you think? my car is a rolling chassis at this point going in to the shop in a few weeks. Better to put on while in the shop or wait for the engine and put it on jack stands?

 

[STSFCTN67]

I would do it with the engine in the car for the simple fact that you can more easily/accurately check for any ground clearace issues. I purhcased your basic square tubing type and had a good welder install them for me. He tied them into the rear floorboards and did an excellent job. He made them as flush as he could. I would love to tell you that I notice a huge difference but I don't - it is good to know that I at least have a solid foundation though.

 

[mdjay]

Round or square is less of an issue then gauge of material and mounting points. Doesn't matter if the engine is in the car or not, the car needs to be on stands on level ground. You'll probably find your car is not straight, more often then not.

The less expensive square tube ones with thin material are just flexing under load with the body. So that's why STSFCTN67 isn't noticing much. But something is better then nothing.

With a single mounting point on the front sub, and a single in the rear, you're only as strong as what you're welded to.

 

[10secgoal]

With a single mounting point on the front sub, and a single in the rear, you're only as strong as what you're welded to.

Good point. That's why I like thru the floor so much. They worked unbelievably well for me before the cage.

 

[rc4mike]

i went with maier racing round tube sub-frames on my 65 convert AFTER driving the car w/o them for 500 miles. With 4 mounting points, including two on front and rear frame rails, it has made a HUGE difference. I installed the same system on my 70 mach. not sure i'll realize as much of an improvement as the hardtop is already much stiffer than my convert. The double mounts on the front and rear rails really make for a more rigid connection.

mike

 

[SadbutTrue]

out of curiousity, how much labor is involved with having someone install/weld them in for you? (roughly, of course)

i'm considering cal tracs and subframes, but i've heard both need welds and i don't think i'm up to the task.

 

[mdjay]

On the tail side, you can weld in L brackets half way between the subs to help stiffen them up and divide the load of the single mount type.

 

[1967project]

Well the car will already be at the shop for its makeover and paint, they guy will do it along with the rest at $50 a hour standard labor rate. Should take no more than a hour.
I dont plan on putting in a cage, but I think after reading this that I will go with L brackets and the sub frame connectors.
I have seen the bolt in sub frame connectors, but dont like the idea of a bolt coming off and my back seat and floor getting harpooned at 50mph. I will def. go with weld in, even if they come with bolt holes.

 

[10secgoal]

It'll take longer than an hour. Those sub frames never just slide into place.
Takes little hammering on the sub frames first. Then you can slide them up to mark where to grind off all the under coating.


PS You don't weld in Caltracs. And sub frames usually take 3-4.5 hours to put in depending on the year car.

 

[68EFIvert]

It'll take longer than an hour. Those sub frames never just slide into place.
Takes little hammering on the sub frames first. Then you can slide them up to mark where to grind off all the under coating.

Isn't that the truth. I have a set of Global West subframe connectors on my vert. There very nice and heavy duty. They made a HUGE difference in my car. The only problem I experienced was the mounting pads were way off. I had to cut the ends off and clamp them in place then reweld the tubing back to the ends. It was easily a 3 hour job.

 

[calpolymustang]

Anyone buy a 2-point subframe and add L-brackets? If so, please post your pics.

Seems like on the global west version, the tubes are further away from the frame-rail, which might make it tricky to get two more rigid connection points (I'm adding two L-brackets for a total of 4 connection points).

though if its going to be too cumbersome, i may just spend another $100 and get the Maier connectors w/ 4-points

 

[BarnStang]

I put a set of the GLobal West connetors on a 67 vert. I don't think it took more than an hour and a half. The car was on a rotissori though. I rolled it up on one side, pounded one on with a mallet, welded it up. Oh, yea it was soda blasted so already clean metal. Still, I can't see more than an hour each on a car not under restoration. Regardless, I think 3-4 hours is excessive. Especially if the shop is already doing metal work on the car.
I had not seen (saw?) the Global West conneters before. I thought they were pretty impressive. They were certainly heavy. Very sturdy. Well made. Fit nice and tight on the frame rails. These came with two little blocks of metal-maybe 1" x 2", to bridge the gap in the rear of the back brackets. I cut one in half and it welded up nice on both.

 

[RapidRoy]

Anybody know how much more the Maier's weigh versus the GW type, one connection on each end?

 

[calpolymustang]

I dont see them being more than ten pounds more each because the tubing is still roughly the same size/length. Te difference is likely due to the extra flanges.

I've decided to go with Global Wests and add additional flanges (3/16" or 1/4" plate).

 

[garner67]

I like the Maier Racing pieces. They have two mounting points front & rear. I can feel a considerable difference in how my car drives. However, they are more expensive.