I'm long overdue for subs. Which kit should I get? I don't weld so I'll be getting a local foxbody specialist to put them on.
Sub Frame Connectors
- Thread starter JD1964
- Start date
Hey John, i'm not meaning to sound like a parrot, but, Maximum Motorsports full length sfc's. They really are more stout than the others out there. That's what will be going on my blue car.
Redfire Fox
Active Member
- Dec 29, 2011
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I got Maximum Motorsports full length on mine years ago. Made my car very stiff. I took it to a professional car shop that know what they are doing to have them welded in. They come with gussets that are welded closely to your seat bolts.
Yes, but I ignore those that, well.......you know
Bwaahaahaahaa!. All good then John?
While on the topic of sfc's, have you looked at the jacking rails and bracing that Stifflers offers?
http://www.buystifflers.com/webbrace79-04mustang.aspx
I'm going to buy their jacking rails and bracing to go with the MM sfc's.
While on the topic of sfc's, have you looked at the jacking rails and bracing that Stifflers offers?
http://www.buystifflers.com/webbrace79-04mustang.aspx
I'm going to buy their jacking rails and bracing to go with the MM sfc's.
Hmm. I hadn't seen those before. Do they make jacking the car or putting on lift idiot proof? 'Cause there's a lot of idiots out there. Depending on how many beers I've had, I know personally
No, I wish I could find that pic of the suv someone posted with the lift arms in the wheel openings.
The jacking rails are great, you can raise one side of the car with one jack, no muss, no fuss, no flex.
If you take a trip on the way back time machine, Mike did a home made version of this on the monster.
Like JR said though, it's not completely idiot proof. Though that pinch weld area can actually be used for jacking the car up.
Like JR said though, it's not completely idiot proof. Though that pinch weld area can actually be used for jacking the car up.
On the vert they rivet a strip of metal (I think it may be aluminum) to the pinch weld that runs along the bottom below the doors, there is another brace but can't remember where right now, it's a compromise between structure and weight.
I have seen older verts when jacked up you can't open the doors.
I have seen older verts when jacked up you can't open the doors.
When I jack my lx hatch, its under the K member and lift the whole front. I place the floor jack at an angle that allows the jack handle to move up between the front of the tire and fender opening for freedom of movement. Then under the rear pumpkin to get the back up. Jack stands at frame rails up front. Wood planks under tq boxes and jackstands there too. Sometimes I go in several stages to get the car higher than the width of my shoulders. This makes it easy to roll around underneath the car instead of trying to shimmy my body across the floor.
Per MM website:
- No need for jacking rails with the XL Series connector. You can lift your Mustang by placing a jack anywhere along the length of the connector tube!
I was thinking it would be good to weld the rest of the support system to, that's my main thought for it.
Plus I have t-tops and will take any support outside a roll cage.
MM's connectors are great by all means . But don't think that team z and others wouldn't do the trick just as good . Metal is metal . One guys boxed steel from next is not any different .
I have through the floors in my car and felt the instant difference the minute I got in it to take it home from the chassis guy .
I have through the floors in my car and felt the instant difference the minute I got in it to take it home from the chassis guy .
Maybe check the thickness of the tubing walls?
Different types of metal?
I don't know, just throw'n crap out there.
Different types of metal?
I don't know, just throw'n crap out there.
I don't jack my car up along the rocker pinch weld although I could. People can say what they want about a single bar SF connector being "just as strong" as a double bar system that ties the rocker into the frame rail,..and I'm gonna say you keep telling yourself that.
It doesn't take a geometry major to see that a 12" wide "ladder" is gonna be stronger than a 2" wide piece of rectangular tubing. But whether or not it's relevant in a street car I can't say. All I know is that if your objective is to strengthen the longitudinal section of the floor pan,...wider is better.
It doesn't take a geometry major to see that a 12" wide "ladder" is gonna be stronger than a 2" wide piece of rectangular tubing. But whether or not it's relevant in a street car I can't say. All I know is that if your objective is to strengthen the longitudinal section of the floor pan,...wider is better.
