Subframe Connectors for Convertible w/center??

[70vert]

Looking for some recommendations on subframe connectors for my convertible. I know that TCP made some that had a center connector in there that was a bolt-in. The side/main connectors were weld-in, the centers were bolt-in. Should I just go with these or does anyone else have a recommendation? My goals are:

1. Must have center connector
2. Rigidity, non-flexy-flyer
3. Ground clearance

I'm also not sure the TCP unit is currently made. I prefer to order from Mustang Depot for the TCP, but they've been out of stock for a while . . .

write-up on my r&p/coilover coming sometime next week.

 

[Hack]

In my opinion, the best way to go is connectors that pass through the floors between the front and rear subframes. That is, to me it's the best way if you don't mind cutting into your car. Through the floor gives the best strength and the best ground clearance.

I have Global West connectors right now. They made a noticeable difference in the car. I like them, but they remove an inch or two of ground clearance in the center of the car. No good if you want the car low like I do! I have the UCAs dropped 2 inches with shimmed ball joints, and I think my front coils are also sagging. I also have 195 70 14 tires, which are only 24.75" in diameter - so they drop the car a little as well (I think the original tire choices were 26.45, 25.92 or 26.27 inches in diameter).

Anyway, my point is that my car will hit on some speed bumps and a few other areas. I think the amount that it hits the ground is just about right - it doesn't touch down too often. I'm looking forward to getting rid of the GW connectors at some point so that I have a little more clearance in the center of the car.

I measured the highest point of my front and rear wheel wells, and the front is 24 1/8" and the rear is 26 3/4". I replaced the leafs in the rear with stock parts about 5 years ago, so the rear is probably close to stock ride height. I want to bring the rear down, but with the GW connectors I think the car will drag too much at that point. I'll probably have to lift the front some when I lower the rear to even the car out front to rear without dragging the GW connectors everywhere I go.

So I hope that helps you think about what you want to put on your car. Good luck.

 

[70vert]

Hmm, never seen through-the-floor connectors

In my opinion, the best way to go is connectors that pass through the floors between the front and rear subframes. That is, to me it's the best way if you don't mind cutting into your car. Through the floor gives the best strength and the best ground clearance.

.

Can you recommend any vendors or tell me where you've seen them? i've never seen through the floor connectors. I believe on our convertibles there is a double floor, and it would pass between the two?

Or are you talking about the Mustangs Plus kit that welds onto the floor and boxes in, basically "torque boxes" the rest of the floor?

It's expensive, but you could always bag the suspension so you can lay frame (or in this case, subframe connector whenever you want and then adjust it up to a height where you can clear speed bumps. I'm still not convinced about the handling of a car with air bags, I'd have to try a car with them on it to be really sure. I'm actually considering it for my rear, though - coilovers in front. That might solve your problem to have bags just in the rear. You could adjust rake with the push of a button if you get the more expensive kit. Low-ry-duh don't hit no bump now da da da da da da da, da da da dum dum.

 

[Hack]

I saw them in the Corner-Carvers forum. People just buy the appropriate length of rectangular steel tubing that will fit inside the front and rear sub frames. Then they cut through the floor and weld the tubing into the subframes, and weld the floor pans to the rectangular tubing along its length. It's the simplest subframe connector you could visualize. If you lift up the carpet and look at the floor, you'll see where the front and rear subframes end. Just draw straight lines in between them, and that's about where the new subframe connectors would fit.

I couldn't find the thread I was looking for, but this thread has a photo of the concept.

http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6884&highlight=subframe+mustang

Here is a thread with balsa modeling of an early stang chassis to try various means of strengthening. Some what off topic, but it shows you that there are a lot of good threads there to read through.

http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13919&highlight=subframe+mustang

Edit: through the floor subframe connectors would not fit between two floors. There's only a single layer of sheet metal that makes most of the floor of a Mustang. The floor essentially bisects the subframe connector. The piece of rectangular tubing would stick halfway below the floor and roughly halfway above. So you have to slice out a section of floor and the connector ends up filling that area. So you can picture that there will be a rectangular lump in the floor connecting front and rear. It could possibly interfere with your seats, depending on what you have. I will probably use this method, and make whatever changes I have to make to the seat mounting brackets.

 

[70vert]

that was my worry

I figured that it would have to do that as there is not enough material there for a tube to fit in. I'm not really into that idea. I suppose I could get over it, but it just seems awkward and would look awkward.

There has to be a better way. Unique performance on their Eleanor convertible used some kind of x-brace that I have not seen a photo of, even in reviews.

I wonder how far below the floor these TCP subframe connectors fit. And why not just weld to the subframe right before the floor pan, weld TO the floor pan underneath along the entire length, and then weld right behind the floor pan? (center would have to bolt in to this to allow access to the tunnel) I can't picture it, car is still at the shop, but there's the idea. Would extreme flex just tear the subframe connector off in the middle, along with a chunk of your floorpan, I wonder?

I imagine the "universal" subframe connectors get around the differences in one year versus another by going under the floorpan at the lowest point needed to not interfere with something on a '67-70.

I like the idea of an x-bracing system - transfer one connector's stress to another at midspan - but they'd have to be vertically stiff like any connector and imagine THAT crossing under the tunnel.

OR maybe just fill in around the Corner-Carvers rectangular tube with Dynamat to eliminate unsightly bulges.

Thanks for the idea, though. If there was some way to make it work aesthetically, and maybe there is, the simplest solution from an ideal-design standpoint is often the best.

If our convertibles were not coupe conversions and were designed from the ground up as convertibles, like the 2005, we probably wouldn't have this problem.

I saw them in the Corner-Carvers forum. People just buy the appropriate length of rectangular steel tubing that will fit inside the front and rear sub frames. Then they cut through the floor and weld the tubing into the subframes, and weld the floor pans to the rectangular tubing along its length. It's the simplest subframe connector you could visualize. If you lift up the carpet and look at the floor, you'll see where the front and rear subframes end. Just draw straight lines in between them, and that's about where the new subframe connectors would fit.

I couldn't find the thread I was looking for, but this thread has a photo of the concept.

http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6884&highlight=subframe+mustang

Here is a thread with balsa modeling of an early stang chassis to try various means of strengthening. Some what off topic, but it shows you that there are a lot of good threads there to read through.

http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13919&highlight=subframe+mustang

Edit: through the floor subframe connectors would not fit between two floors. There's only a single layer of sheet metal that makes most of the floor of a Mustang. The floor essentially bisects the subframe connector. The piece of rectangular tubing would stick halfway below the floor and roughly halfway above. So you have to slice out a section of floor and the connector ends up filling that area. So you can picture that there will be a rectangular lump in the floor connecting front and rear. It could possibly interfere with your seats, depending on what you have. I will probably use this method, and make whatever changes I have to make to the seat mounting brackets.

 

[70vert]

Reenmachine did the link

Here's the unit linking the two subframe connectors like you're talking about, Hack:

and after paint:

I'll have to pick reenmachine's brain to see if they are welded to the floor.