Subframe Connectors & Stiffness

steveb24

New Member
Nov 28, 2005
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wilmington, DE
hey guys, im thinkin about some subframes but need some detail on them. i just put on the pro-kit and im looking for even better handling and to get rid of the body roll during cornering (didnt have as much with the supersports)...BUT i dont want the car to get any more harsh with the ride. are subframes a good idea? should i get some that arent full-length? what about a stb? give me your ideas on better handling mods but not losing much ride quality (aka.. i dont want it to be stiff like the ss's were).:nice: thanks
 
+500 MM full length SFC's!!!!!!
You will be amazed at the difference
You can add a number of other items, like strut tower brace, k member brace, different front and rear sway bars etc....but do the sfc's first then see how you feel
Spend you money right the first time and never regret a thing!
 
honestly, I didn't feel anything with my full length subs...lol... Perhaps a little more rigidity at high speed turns (90MPH+), and maybe a bit more light vibration at high speeds... Mainly I got them just so I could throw on a torque arm ;)
 
BennyBlown2v said:
honestly, I didn't feel anything with my full length subs...lol... Perhaps a little more rigidity at high speed turns (90MPH+), and maybe a bit more light vibration at high speeds... Mainly I got them just so I could throw on a torque arm ;)

:stupid: . I didn't feel any difference after getting them installed also :shrug:

Nonetheless, buy them and get them welded on!
 
I got MM SFC and a DS loop installed at the same time. The DS loop is welded to the SFC's and there was a big difference. The car fells like it's planted to the ground. they also give you a good jack point for chaning tires a the track..
 
I'm planning on getting sfc, however you buy the steel at home depot and make your own - Mac has a good set for 100 bucks - MM i have heard great things about - I also heard that it is something you just want to have on your car period - they help regardless
 
Get MMs

I have the standard length Maximum Motorsports ones with the crossbar that bolts in under the seat. I had them welded in and let me tell you....YOU WILL NOTICE THEM.

I can't believe that someone got quality ones (like MM) and couldn't feel any difference. :rolleyes:

The reason the Maximum Motorsports ones are so much better than the other cheapies are they are fully boxed. The endcaps are welded on and they are thick!

What did I notice? I can chirp the tires at a lower rpm then before, the doors close with a more postive feel/sound than before and when crossing railroad tracks or going into a parking lot from the street the car feels much more solid. The car feels more solid all over, the ride is the same though, it's not any more harsh, just more solid.

ALSO - I have a very hard time believing you can buy the steel and make connectors as good as the MaximumMotorsports ones for significanly less money. They are not like the cheap ones on the market, the construction on these is top notch.
 
Pretty much my first mod on my vert was SS connectors. This is the impression I got.

I put in (welded) Kenny Brown SuperSubs (full length with cross member), with their "Matrix Brace" kit and jacking rails. Lot's of sub so don't dog me on tubulars or something...

These are required for verts but coups with power could use them too. I experienced a ton of "body roll" before I got these. Now my pony is on "Rails"... no body roll and my understeer has gone to oversteer which I prefer cause you can offset it. My pony drives very well with my supersport springs, bilstein struts/shocks, MM C/C plates and KB SS Matrix kit. I had a VW Golf or Jetta or something tagging my ass till we got into a sharp off ramp and he couldn't keep up with me through the tight 270* turn... in the rain (God bless my Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires).

:flag:
 
svtpower said:
I have the standard length Maximum Motorsports ones with the crossbar that bolts in under the seat. I had them welded in and let me tell you....YOU WILL NOTICE THEM.

I can't believe that someone got quality ones (like MM) and couldn't feel any difference. :rolleyes:

The reason the Maximum Motorsports ones are so much better than the other cheapies are they are fully boxed. The endcaps are welded on and they are thick!

What did I notice? I can chirp the tires at a lower rpm then before, the doors close with a more postive feel/sound than before and when crossing railroad tracks or going into a parking lot from the street the car feels much more solid. The car feels more solid all over, the ride is the same though, it's not any more harsh, just more solid.

ALSO - I have a very hard time believing you can buy the steel and make connectors as good as the MaximumMotorsports ones for significanly less money. They are not like the cheap ones on the market, the construction on these is top notch.

u just sold me on subframes. :D gdawg too. thats what i was lookin for. :nice: ( my dads gotta slick jetta too.. and he always says he will win on the twisties)
 
I did the Maximum Motorsports full lengths before any suspension work, and the car felt like it got a new suspension! Its alot smoother on the highway and around turns. A lot less "white knucke" feeling during spirted driving. I plan on doing shocks/struts/springs in the next month, but thought that the subframes should be first, build on a solid foundation. Oh yeah, did a driveshaft safety loop at the same time too.
 
svtpower said:
ALSO - I have a very hard time believing you can buy the steel and make connectors as good as the MaximumMotorsports ones for significanly less money. They are not like the cheap ones on the market, the construction on these is top notch.

Have these guys actually priced steel stock at Lowes or Home Depot lately? OMG, it's friggin expensive!