Subframes IN! ! ! (pics)

:D :D :D :D The (BBK) Subframe connectors went in yesterday....what a difference. It's not night and day, but the convert top squeaks less at the junction of w/s and top and the car as a whole seems more solid. It's got more of a "lift off" now when you hammer the gas too... sort of the point.

Great investment for anyone that doesn't already have them. And for those that recommended them to me. THANKS! ! ! ! :hail2: :hail2:

Total bill: $120 for the BBKs from Summit, $60 for welding. $0 for a big grin. :)

I hope the pics insert properly...
 
I think your best bet would be to go to a metal fab shop and tell them what you are looking for. They could help fab something that wouldn't have clearance issues but that would serve a purpose.
I tend to think that if you heat and stretch/tweak the pre-made subframe connects that they would weaken. A good quality welder would probably help you out best.
You'll love the ride quality after though...esp with a convert! ! ! !
 
I can't wait to get some on my 'vert, I'm tired of hearing that top mount squeek over bumps. Did you get the full-length ones? (I don't even know if BBK makes full-length ones or not). I was looking at getting the MM ones, but I also heard wonderful things about the Global West ones.
 
Not sure what constitutes full- or otherwise-length connects. They run from roughly under the footwells to the rear hump where the unibody starts to curve up to accomodate the rear end. If that makes any sense.

I can't figure out how else they would work, unless someone makes half-length ones that connect halfway from the part under the footwells to like under the (front) seats.

Either way, the only thing I might advise is if you want a stiffer ride yet, get some variety that have side/torsion brackets that go under the seats, I can see those also adding some strength.

The BBKs I have were bolt-ins but were welded instead. Bolting is a bad idea now that I think about it. I thought there may have been existing holes...

Well worth the $$$$$ ! ! ! ! ! ! !
 
Bens95cobra8594 said:
Not sure what constitutes full- or otherwise-length connects. They run from roughly under the footwells to the rear hump where the unibody starts to curve up to accomodate the rear end. If that makes any sense.

I can't figure out how else they would work, unless someone makes half-length ones that connect halfway from the part under the footwells to like under the (front) seats.

Either way, the only thing I might advise is if you want a stiffer ride yet, get some variety that have side/torsion brackets that go under the seats, I can see those also adding some strength.

The BBKs I have were bolt-ins but were welded instead. Bolting is a bad idea now that I think about it. I thought there may have been existing holes...

Well worth the $$$$$ ! ! ! ! ! ! !

So does it help your SOTP feel? Or is it just like...suspension. It wouldn't help your 1/4 at all...right? Unless it helped traction I guess.
 
not trying to be an ass, but if you are gonna do subframe connectors you should not waste your time with anything less than full length. those are not full lengths.

if you had installed a set of full lengths you would notice a huuuuuuge difference--esp being a vert.
 
bimmertech said:
not trying to be an ass, but if you are gonna do subframe connectors you should not waste your time with anything less than full length. those are not full lengths.

if you had installed a set of full lengths you would notice a huuuuuuge difference--esp being a vert.


Okay, point taken. So where do the full length connectors go to (or start from)?

I have a feeling that there may be a lot of people out there with connectors, but they are half length, seemingly like mine.

Might you have pics of full length ones installed?

I am curious now....
 
Bens95cobra8594 said:
Okay, point taken. So where do the full length connectors go to (or start from)?

I have a feeling that there may be a lot of people out there with connectors, but they are half length, seemingly like mine.

Might you have pics of full length ones installed?

I am curious now....

full lengths will start directly behind the x-brace in the front of a vert and run all the way back to the rear torque box.

it is about 4 inches longer than what you have--trust me, those 4" are huge.
 
Okay, so after a quick google search...I discovered a few articles, mostly that show the install of the same subframe connectors (brand differences exist of course) that I just got. They are all the same length as the ones I just installed (some links are below).

It seems like there are a lot of manufacturers and vendors selling smaller-than-full length connectors out there. Bimmertech... can you explain more what you meant? I am curious to find out more about the real full length ones now. :SNSign:

Some links attached for anyone who cares:

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/howto/3573/
Good link, has subframe install.


http://www.yellowmustangregistry.com/CP.html
Great link for nasty subframes for a newer convert. Guy is in NC I think...scroll to bottom of page to see. They are nasty looking ladders! ! ! !

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/howto/138_0202_max/
Good link for a '96 GT 'Stang subframe and other suspension upgrades.

I look forward to more information! ! !

Tnx all. :)
 
I've got the black powdercoat MM full-length subframes on mine - HUGE improvement on my 95 'vert.

Also, if your top squeaks where it meets the windshield, each hook has an adjustment - loosen the small allen screw and the hooks will spin then retighten the allen screw.