I am thinking about getting rid of my Pro-M 77mm setup. This is the large aluminum style. I am unsure if I should stick to a 77 or go to an 80mm. Ideally, I want something a little smaller so it fits into my fender better (cold air). Should I go beyond an 80mm? Also, I have 30# injectors. Should I upgrade this as well since I have the opportunity to get another maf that is calibrated differently? Will 96-98 Pro-M setups work in our 94-95 mustang? I have a tweecer to make any adjustments if needed. Thanks
Suggestions or advice on my Pro-M setup and engine combo
- Thread starter jruppert
- Start date
Stanger007
Founding Member
If you've got a twEECer and the flowsheet for the MAF, then you can use whichever one you want provided you punch in the correct flowsheet and injector settings into the MAF table.
If you've got a wideband, all the better, we can dial that puppy in as good or better than you would get from a dyno tune.
Wes
If you've got a wideband, all the better, we can dial that puppy in as good or better than you would get from a dyno tune.
Wes
Stanger007
Founding Member
Also, I'm running 4" pipe/MAF in my fender, no fitment issues.
My routing is different than yours, but you can get the idea of the layout:
My routing is different than yours, but you can get the idea of the layout:
Stanger007
Founding Member
Last thing - get a WOT datalog and see what kg/hr you are flowing. Also watch the dutycycle of your injectors - let these logs coupled with your future plans drive your decisions on what to get/buy.
Wes
Wes
Thanks for the suggestions. A while back, my laptop quit working. So I cannot do any datalogging. Back when I was datalogging and using eec analyzer, I found in my injector timing charts that it suggested I needed larger injectors in the higher cells. I was told that my cam might be causing this being that the duration is short and not allowing enough fuel to pass within that time.
Did you need to remove the fender to attach that Pro-M meter?
Did you need to remove the fender to attach that Pro-M meter?
Stanger007
Founding Member
On the MAF, I removed the tire and the fender liner - you can do it by just reaching up into the fender from below but I would rather just pull the liner and save myself the hassle of trying to fish around in there.
The injector timing in EA doesn't necessarily mean your injectors are pegged - I would try to get or look at a datalog and watch the pulsewidth and AFR in the exhaust to make that determination.
So the short answer is that if your AFR is fine now and you don't want to mess with the tuning (some don't care to and would rather just leave power/drivability on the table) then get you a MAF and matching injectors and call it a day.
The other answer is to get whatever MAF you want that will read the amount of air you are pushing (or will push) and whichever injectors you want (or keep the 30s) and just tune it in.
For a N/A 351 I would expect you can get away (and have some wiggle room) with any meter that can register at least 1500kg/hr. The 90mm Lightning is a meter that fits this quite well and is inexpensive.
Lotta options but these are the two that stick out to me.
Wes
The injector timing in EA doesn't necessarily mean your injectors are pegged - I would try to get or look at a datalog and watch the pulsewidth and AFR in the exhaust to make that determination.
So the short answer is that if your AFR is fine now and you don't want to mess with the tuning (some don't care to and would rather just leave power/drivability on the table) then get you a MAF and matching injectors and call it a day.
The other answer is to get whatever MAF you want that will read the amount of air you are pushing (or will push) and whichever injectors you want (or keep the 30s) and just tune it in.
For a N/A 351 I would expect you can get away (and have some wiggle room) with any meter that can register at least 1500kg/hr. The 90mm Lightning is a meter that fits this quite well and is inexpensive.
Lotta options but these are the two that stick out to me.
Wes
Similar threads
