superchargers for sn95

If you do a centrifigul, you will WANT to do gears...

If you run 3.90's or 4.10's, you would have a similar midrange feel as a Kenne Bell but still with a strong topend.

88stang88 said:

Vortec S-Trims seem like a common choice...HankyGT is running one i believe talk to him about his.

Click to expand...

Hey,

Yeah I chose the v1-s trim for a few reasons. Cost was a factor as it's fairly cheap as an entry level supercharger vs. some of the larger units. Ease of installation wasn't a huge thing, but a vortech is extremely straightforward esp if you choose to run a v3 which is a sealed unit. Reliability was also a concern and the vortechs have a very strong track record.

That said, I dislike the fact you cannot run a proper intercooler (and you definately aren't running a strut brace with the outdated power cooler...which is a big no no for me). On high boost pulley combinations you will see people complain about the brackets trying to flex. This should not be a problem on a streetcar on moderate boost however. The stock inlet is crap. Throw it away and buy a power pipe. The blower will only take you 'so far'.

Realistically you need to plan a final goal before you purchase a blower and STICK TO IT. An s-trim on a good bottom end will max out a production shortblock, especially with a stroker. Around 550rwhp is a realistic figure without delving into race gas only apps and so forth. A novi 1200 is comparable to an s-trim. However I do not care for the cheap brackets and hardware or really the output specifics and background. That does not mean it's junk, but in the order of entry level, Id say powerdyne<novi 1200<strim.
The novi2000 is substantially larger than an s-trim. The housing is comparable to a Ysi or a procharger D1sc. The boost ramp rates are faster, and the overall output is far succeeding. The brackets/tensioning system are also top notch over the strim. You will pay at least $1k over an strim style setup though; but you can run a renegade car power wise with them. These are also non-intercooled.

The procharger is neat because you can intercool them. But they are expensive; the mounting location requires the battery to be relocated, the inlet is over the headers and is designed to really use more of a cowl feed effect; also the non dediacated belt issue.

For a first timer and a basic streetcar setup I'd suggest the vortech; esp their new Si (all s-trims now) internal gearset. The ramp rate is substantially faster and it performs much like a T-trim now. However it will share the helical cut gears like the SQ before it and will be a quiet blower. I had to special order my standard v1 strim as they quit making them with the straight cut gears and that was a HUGE selling point for me because I want and love an obnoxiously loud blower. As far as I know the other brands are still quite noisy.
I would also look into upgrading the bypass assembly. Having owned turbo cars, I like to hear the blow off valve even if it is being recirculated (this is a must on a draw through MAF setup...don't try to vent it to atmosphere). So upgrading to a noisy one might be more fun for you unless you like a subtle system. The Novi 2000 and the P1/D1sc both use a metal bypass valve. The s-trim uses a standard plastic bosch unit, although you can upgrade to their Mondo style unit; however the discharge on the inlet and the outlet pipes will need to be changed as it uses larger hoses.

All said, if I had to do it again; I'd be going back to my routes and turboing the bish. Most effective, most power, undrivable amounts of tq upon spoolup, and the ability to grow with the twist of a boost controller; just add the fuel and a decent block. However it is pricier, a harder install for the novice, and not really for the beginner at all. Packaging can become an issue, and your exhaust setup will change and you will loose the traditional sound. Turbo noises from a v8 are sick however


cliffs: begineer? Buy the v3-Si trim and call it a day.

$.02

-Tom

Nice post

I had a Paxton Novi 2000 on my 95 GT. Great blower very well built. Everything was stock on the car except for the upper intake and exhaust and it put down 335/340 at 10PSI on the stock pully.

Vortech Owns Paxton as well. They just kept the seperate names.

HankyGT:

Lots of good info! Thanks for the detail. I take back one of the bad things I said about you!

As far as heat levels go, anything under 14psi should be just fine on a smaller size blower. They all will produce heat and are hot to touch after a good pass which can lead to heat soaking the intake. Run a phenolic spacer if it worries you. However even with the condition of my bottom end; the car was consistant within a tenth in 75 degree temps dropping to 50s over the summer. I forgot to address that in my 1st post.

I did a god bit of research last year on blowers

It was one of those things that took a while to gather up what I considered
data that was beyond brand loyalty or just an opinion

I was looking at both KB and Vortech

Sad thing is ... all that hard data is gone even if you search up the
thread as I lost it all when my hosting site went belly up

anywho

Here is the short and brief findings of my past efforts

First I wanna say I did not consider any kind of entry level kit
or budget method focus of any of the combos I looked at

No fmu, or spark retard gizmo kinda thing made the cut

A decent fuel system and a custom tune for total control :Word:

I found very nice results from both KB and Vortech and as most
would tell you the tendency is low end grunt with KB and mid range
to high end power with the Vortech

however

I did see those who had the best of all parts and used misters to cool
the charge on the Vortech combos could approach what a KB could do
on the lower end of the power band

Of Course ... Like most things ... Better quality parts did make a diff

I do all my own wrenching and tuning so my opinion on how to boost a
street car is filtered through that if you see what I am trying to say

Also ... It don't take much boost and hot rod parts until you have made
your OEM block a extra heavy base for a really cool coffee table with a
glass top

I think the most bang for the buck spent if boosting a street car would
go kinda like this

Aluminum heads for thicker decks ..........
Any of em are gonna be better than OEM
so
You can look for a good deal and get em where and when you find em

You gotta have a better ignition than OEM for spark blow out

Big in tank pump and Big Ole inj's

A decent intake and set of headers

Last but very important ... A Good Tune

You will make more power this way than NA and your choice of hot rod
parts is not as critical because the blower is cramming down the mix
where with NA all you got to work with is what mother nature provides

I'm Done

Grady

I purchased a tuner kit for the same reasons of not using some garbage FMU and a retard box.

However it makes it as easy as possible for the DIY guy not looking to end the world power wise.

I purchased a used procharger kit. The biggest reason I went with the procharger kit was the air to air intercooler included in the kit. There are some issues that do need to be resolved though. Like the intake being right above the header. But its nothing that cant be changed. I plan on either routing my intake to the back of my cowl hood and building an air box that would sit over the intake against the firewall and seal against the hood when its closed sucking air from the back of my 3.5" cowl, or just build an elbow that would route the intake into the drivers side fender, but would have to cut my own hole here. I also don't see the 6 rib set up as that big of an issue at this time due to the gear ratios and the size of the blower pulleys. For example, I have a 3.7" 6 rib blower pulley that makes 9lbs of boost. The 14lb pulley is 3.35" which is where I imagine I might start having problems with some slip, but not sure yet. I will worry about it if I ever want 14lbs! Comparatively, the vortech 9lb pulley is 8 rib but only about 3.3" IIRC (If I am wrong, let me know what size!). So there is a trade off of width for diameter surface area. Of course with the vortech you have the option of changing crank pulley size as well, which you can do on the procharger setup but you end up spinning all of your accessories faster, not just the blower. So, lots of trade offs between the two kits, but either way, you can't go wrong because at the end of the day, you have a blown mustang!

I went through the same series of questions last year when I bought my blower. I did some research and decided to go with procharger for the air to air intercooler and several other personal reasons. I did put this kit on myself. I will tell you that you do have to modify quite a bit to get this to fit good. From personal experience I love my procharger. Now that I have it there are a few things I would have done differently. I have a sc unit so I didn't have to run oil lines which was nice. I would have gone with a fox body setup on my car though. Pretty easy to do if you work on your car at all and I would have also switched to the 10 rib setup. Of course after putting the blower on my 347 I had some issues with my stock block so Now I am building my car from the ground up. I am putting in a 351w stroked to a 446 with ported and polished heads and intake. If you don't have a good base to start with I would suggest putting the money towards your short block and heads to get them to hold the power. I know that I was really disappointed with having to take my car apart again. But there again if I would not be making my car faster than it already was. should be close to 1000hp. I am running a spacer on my trick flow intake to help with the heat even with the intercooler. So that being said, I would reccomend procharger but hey boost is boost and anything should get the job done. I have a trick flow top end kit out of summit racing for your car if you are interested so pm me if you are. Comes with complete heads, cam, and upper and lower intake,