surging idle and stall

[Euphoric306]

idles around 750 and surges a bit, which is no problem, but most times when i drop it in neutral and release the clutch, it dies. the only way i keep it alive is to keep it in gear and brake until the engine is ~800 rpms and then release the gear

i tried cleaning TB and IAS and after it worked like a dream.. but after running the car for 20 mins and shutting it off for about half hour, when i started it back up it ran like crap again.. so i clean the air filter and it doesnt do much good

next step will be fuel filter as that could be any age, but those usually affect high-flow conditions such as WOT, not at like an idle

any other suggestions?

vixed an A/C vacuum leak but no help and pulled codes but im only getting 81, 82, 85, and 95

81/82 are thermactor air system, 95 is fuel pump circuit (which i dont think is the problem) and 85 i'm unsure of

brand new o2 sensors, clean k&n, clean TB and IAS, i could try fuel inj cleaner but im low on solutions

cleaned up a bunch of wires and checked all vacuum lines but to no avail

...jrichter any help with those codes please? thanks a lot guys

i know gas mileage is suffering and thats a biggy

 

[HISSIN50]

Is the VSS hooked up?

Have you checked the idle settings to ensure they are in spec?

Good luck.

 

[giddyup306]

JT do you ever sleep? It's like 2am here. BTW when in the hell did you get 12K posts??? I'm slackin!

 

[HISSIN50]

JT do you ever sleep? It's like 2am here. BTW when in the hell did you get 12K posts??? I'm slackin!

Mike, I get a few hours every now and again. It is only comin' up on midnight out West here.

When you were not around as much, it gave me a chance to post. BTW, I am not at 12K yet. Might take a few months to get there.
Glad to see you back in here posting good stuff.

 

[SRsnake]

I was having the same trouble on my 90GT, it would run fine but would idle like crap and would die occasionally when i pushed in the clutch, especially w/the AC on. I cleaned the TB and replaced IAC and nothing helped. Then i found that my battery cable had almost completely corroded through so i replaced it, now it idles like a champ and doesnt die. This may or may not be your problem, but its something to be looked at. Good luck

 

[jrichker]

Code 81 – Secondary Air Injection Diverter Solenoid failure AM2. The solenoid valve located on the back side of the passenger side wheel well is not functional. Possible bad wiring, bad connections, missing or defective solenoid valve. Check the solenoid valve for +12 volts at the Red wire and look for the Lt Green/Black wire to switch from +12 volts to 1 volt or less. The computer controls the valve by providing a ground path on the LT Green/Black wire for the solenoid valve.

See http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/t...ng5.0Vacuum.gif for help on the vacuum line plumbing.

Code 82 – Secondary Air Injection Diverter Solenoid failure AM1. The dump valve air diverter valve (front vacuum operated valve) isn’t working on the Thermactor Air System (smog pump). Look for broken or missing vacuum lines on the solenoid valve to the diverter valve Check the solenoid valve for +12 volts at the Red wire and look for the Red/White wire to switch from +12 volts to 1 volt or less. The computer controls the valve by providing a ground path on the Red/White wire for the solenoid valve

Code 85 - CANP solenoid - The Carbon Canister solenoid is inoperative. Check vacuum lines for leaks and cracks. Check electrical wiring for loose connections, damaged wiring and insulation. Check solenoid valve operation by grounding the gray/yellow wire to the solenoid and blowing through it.
The computer provides the ground for the solenoid. The red wire to the solenoid is always energized any time the ignition switch is in the run position.

Code 95 - the 95 code is because at one time or another the fuel pump relay hiccupped and didn't provide power the pump when the computer told it to run. Sometimes this is a one time thing, other times it is a no run or runs poorly condition.

To help troubleshoot the 95 code, follow this link for a wiring diagram http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80167162.gif

Using the diagram, check the red/black wire from the fuel pump relay: you should see 12 volts or so. If not, check the inertia switch: on a hatch it is on the drivers side by the taillight. Look for a black rubber plug that pops out: if you don't find it, then loosen up the plastic trim. Check for voltage on both sides of the switch. If there is voltage on both sides, then check the Pink/black wire on the fuel pump relay: it is the power feed to the fuel pump. No voltage there, check the Orange/lt blue wire, it is the power feed to the fuel pump relay & has a fuse link in it. Good voltage there & at the Pink/black wire, swap the relay.

Check out the Carbon canister system (code 85). A vacuum leak here will mess up your idle.

Also clean the MAF element. The MAF element is secured by 2 screws & has 1 wiring connector. To clean the element, remove it from the MAF housing and spray it down with electronic parts cleaner or non-inflammable brake parts cleaner (same stuff in a bigger can and cheaper too).

If you have a CAI, clock the MAF. Clocking the MAF is useful when you have a cold air kit or some other modification to the air box or air inlet before the MAF.
Clocking is turning the MAF housing so that the sensor element is in a different position. It changes the airflow through the MAF to place the sensor pickup in the place where the airflow is the least disturbed.

 

[Euphoric306]

thanks a mil jrichker

definitely sounds like a vacuum leak so i'll recheck all my lines and ask my dad to bring a DMM home so i can check up on those solenoids, im almost sure its those since those same codes have been coming up for months

no prob. whatsoever with the fuel pump, which is almost brand new, and havent had a nostart situation since the pump was replaced, or any fuel pressure loss at all

the VSS is hooked up and to my knowledge working just fine, on very rare occasions my speedo will bounce up and down wildly but after a moment or two its just fine for another few months and its not scaring me at all since my old car did that as well, sure its just the 18 year old speedo.

now lemme get something else straight.... is the canister purge solenoid the one directly above the thermactor air solenoids?

i just cleaned all those terminals and electrical connections but dont have a DMM right now to test the voltage.

my pos battery lead has a bunch of white acidic corrosion in the wire from the old bad battery, so i might try scrounging up a new lead


thanks again guys

 

[Euphoric306]

alright busted out my OTC manual today and found some stuff out

one of my TAB/TAD solenoids (both of which should be 50-100 ohms) is down around 30 ohms, so im gonna replace those... that probably wont help my idle or gas mileage a bit tho, but maybe

also, my canister purge solenoid (specs say 40-90 ohms) didn't have any continuity at all, so thats gettin replaced as well

im hopin after all this and maybe a maf sensor clean the thing should idle like a champ, maybe with a TPS adjustment or something


thanks again guys