First, with the x cam it will have a rowdy idle. The LSA on that cam makes it hard for the computer to react to imputs.
Second, that cam will need to have a higher idle than a stock cam again because of the LSA.
Third, if there is a leak at the EGR valve why continue to mess around with trying to fix the idle issues? When the new valve comes in change it out then see what happens.
Forth, all this is covered in the checklist.
While the members here want to help you and will help you with advice/suggestions based on their experience and knowledge, to continue to mess with things, like your idle settings, without fixing an issue that you've found, like the leaking EGR valve, you're beating your head against a fender.
I understand the want to fix this and I'm not criticizing your zest to make it run right but these computer controlled vehicles depend on input from sensors and predetermined settings and reset procedures that when 'fiddled' with can make fixing a issue almost impossible to get a handle on. For example, the IAC (idle air control) valve works in a small rpm range, above that range it does not function. The computer controls it. Outside the range and it's useless.
I hope my rambling helps give you a better understanding of what's going on with your stang.
Let me add that changing the egr valve may make the 94/44 codes go away after resetting the computer of course, if not look at the tab/tad for vacuum or wiring issues. Although I think they should have no effect on the idle unless there is a vacuum leak there.
Second, that cam will need to have a higher idle than a stock cam again because of the LSA.
Third, if there is a leak at the EGR valve why continue to mess around with trying to fix the idle issues? When the new valve comes in change it out then see what happens.
Forth, all this is covered in the checklist.
While the members here want to help you and will help you with advice/suggestions based on their experience and knowledge, to continue to mess with things, like your idle settings, without fixing an issue that you've found, like the leaking EGR valve, you're beating your head against a fender.
I understand the want to fix this and I'm not criticizing your zest to make it run right but these computer controlled vehicles depend on input from sensors and predetermined settings and reset procedures that when 'fiddled' with can make fixing a issue almost impossible to get a handle on. For example, the IAC (idle air control) valve works in a small rpm range, above that range it does not function. The computer controls it. Outside the range and it's useless.
I hope my rambling helps give you a better understanding of what's going on with your stang.
Let me add that changing the egr valve may make the 94/44 codes go away after resetting the computer of course, if not look at the tab/tad for vacuum or wiring issues. Although I think they should have no effect on the idle unless there is a vacuum leak there.