Suspension advice needed from you experts...!

[Brian68GT]

Suspension and engine set up advice needed from you experts...!

...i'm about to put a large order in with NPD for my 68 GT fastback 302. As i live in Ireland i need to order everything at once to save on shipping costs so i need some advice before i finalise my order.

I am ordering Contour Coil Springs, 1" lower with 550 rate. 1" front anti sway bar, Monte Carlo Brace and 1" rear lowering blocks. What i need to know is 4 things...

1. What bushing upgrades or replacements do i need. I had Polyurethane bushings on my 1987 Ford capri, and i liked them, but the Mustang is bigger and heavier so i'm not sure if i want the ultra hard ride but i do want improved handling.

2. Should i consider a Rear anti-sway bar? I've heard mixed reports. Any advice in this department would be welcome as i'm very new to Mustangs and really dont know what i'm doing when it comes to bushings, suspension mods etc.

3. Also i'm thinking of buying the Ignitor II Pertronix breakerless ignition system and the matching flame thrower coil. Do any of you have this set up and would you recommend it?

4. I have a problem with my headlights. Parking lights are fine but when i turn on my dipped beams they both flicker on and off intermittently, even when stationary. Do i need to replace the voltage regulator or is it just loose cables or fuse?

Finally i had my car on a rolling road and its only producing 130bhp with 9.5% emmisions (should be around 3.5%). Basically the guy says the car isn't set up properly so its massively underpowered and drinking fuel. In order to set it up correctly i need to get all of the set up information so he can tune it properly; dewll angle, idling revs, timing, vacume advance etc. Can you guys help me in this department. I have a 302 with a Holley carb and edelbrock headers.

Thanks in advance for your help and sorry for asking so much at once.

Brian

 

[HistoricMustang]

1. Polyurethane
2. No
3. No
4. Replace the headlight switch.
5. Use MSD distributor with base line set up and start with 10 degrees advance.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

[rbohm]

1: go with they urethane bushings.
2: i would use a 3/4" rear bar(historic and i disagree on this point)
3: i have the crane xr-700 unit on my falcon, and i do recomend the electronic conversion kits. the pertronix is a good one to use.
4: not only replace the headlight switch, but to prevent future problems install relays to take the load off the switch.
5: have your guy set the initial timing between 10 and 14 degree btdc. if you use electronic ignition the dwell takes care of itself. as i recall your engine should idle at 650-700 rpm in drive.

 

[jesserose17]

1. Polyurtherane
2. It depends on your driving style - if you like the rear end to break loose a little bit, then you don't need rear sway bar. Some road racers like them that way.
3. I have Pertronix II set up and I love it. I do recommend them.
4. Headlight switch is likely suspect.
5. Check your timing - 10 to 14 degrees in advance is ideal for stock.

 

[Brian68GT]

Thanks for that advice, almost there...

Just checked my current anti-sway bar and its 7/8 ths of an inch. Will the 1 inch make a big difference?

I think i'll go with the urethane bushings. In the NPD catalogue there is a polyurethane bushing kit (3001) but there are 2 options for 67-73, W/1 7/16" LWR CTRL arm bushing or W/1 9/16" LWR CTRL arm bushing. How do i know which one i need to get?

The kit includes Coil spring insulators, front bumper, spring saddle bushings, ft lower shock insulators, rear shock insulators, strut rod bushings, lwr control arm bushings, leaf spring front eye bushings, adjustable shackle kit and steer coupler.

Do I need all of these bushings? Should i also get a sway bar frame bracket and bushing set?

Thanks guys, your a great help.

Brian

 

[usedtobe 67p51d]

1.go poly

2.rear sway bar, depends on what springs you use. I've had the wrong spring combo and it needed the bar. New combo is global west race springs and no rear bar is needed. {going to the roadcourse in two weeks, bringing the rear bar just incase !}

3.don't go with petronix. I don't know what you're trying to get out of the motor, if it's not going to turn more than 6k go with a Ford duraspark distributer, if you want more rpm get a msd. the petronix left me stranded twice.

4. If all the other peoples suggestions don't work have your alternator checked

5.I run 16 degrees of advance maxing out at 34, the holley might need to be tuned, find a good shop with a dyno and someone who understands carbs It will drive soo much better

 

[LMan]

RE: poly bushings, it is prudent NOT to use poly bushings in the strut rod ends for everyday street driving, since they will not absorb impacts as well as the rubber bushings and in some cases may have contributed to strut rods snapping in half upon hitting a curb and other hard impacts. Recommend you keep rubber bushings there, and use poly elsewhere.