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Suspension... Am I on the Right track here?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Fink132
  • Start date Start date Jul 2, 2010
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Fink132

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Jul 2, 2010
#1
  • Jul 2, 2010
  • #1
Hey all, I have been thinking about upgrading the suspension in the stang, so here's what I think I'll need:
Eibach Pro Kit spring set : Eibach Pro Kit Springs at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!

Eibach Pro-Damper shocks: Eibach Pro-Damper Shock & Struts (94-04 V6, 79-04 V8 excl. IRS cobra) at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!

Eibach Anti-Roll kit: Eibach Anti-Roll Kit (94-04 excluding the 99-04 Cobra) at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!

Maximum Motorsports FLSC: Maximum Motorsports Mustang Full Length Subframe Connectors (79-04) - Bare Steel at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!

Is any of this overkill? Any other cheaper combinations?

Thanks for the input!

Also, what would you guys recommend getting professionally installed? I'm vaguely familiar with springs and could probably do them and the anti-roll kit myself, however it sounds like the FLSC's need some welding to be done properly
 

trombonedemon

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Jun 25, 2009
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Jul 2, 2010
#2
  • Jul 2, 2010
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I'm not a big fan of lowering a performance car but, everying else should make your ride to grip the road like the car was made w/pavement stuck to the wheels. Sorry for the queer analogy! If you lower your car, you will need taller ball-joints and a bumpsteer kit for the streets! Don't take just my word for it, *cues Reading Rainbow theme song*.
 

joshjwc9

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Jun 12, 2006
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Jul 2, 2010
#3
  • Jul 2, 2010
  • #3
With the Pro Kit and Eibachs own shocks you probably wont need the ball joints and bumpsteer because the car probably wont be low enough. But if this car isn't going to see the road course or autocross, I would suggest getting those subframe connectors and MM's caster camber plates to get your alignment in check. Once you get into extreme stuff like adjustable arms, shocks and panhard bars or something like H&R Super Sports that lower the car is when you need bumpsteer kit and a x2 balljoint.
 
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Fink132

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#4
  • Jul 2, 2010
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There has been a lot of talk lately about "getting power to the ground"
I am probably not going to do much track stuff or anything of that sort, but I would like it lowered a bit, so what would be a better setup, or should I just stick with the stock suspension?
 

crazystang25

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eibach prokit or sportline kit with their shocks n struts. or if it was me i would do h&r ss w/ bilstein shocks n struts with MM cc plates along with their flsfc which you already had listed. also upgrade the endlinks for the front swaybar and the swaybar bushings and control arm bushings if you aren't going to upgrade to tubular ones. upgrading the rear upper and lowers is a good idea to at some point as well as a panhard bar. this will help make the rear end a lot more stable whether its in the corners or in a straight line. you can also go the torque arm route if you are more into corner carving.
 

crazystang25

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#6
  • Jul 2, 2010
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but if you are just wanting to do springs with shocks n struts i would do the h&r ss with bilsteins and the MM cc plates to help with the alignment as well as the taller ball joints and the bumpsteer kit. bumpsteer kits and the taller balljoints are not to expensive either.
 
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lewbud

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May 15, 2005
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Jul 3, 2010
#7
  • Jul 3, 2010
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I'd let a shop do the subframe connectors, unless you've got access to a drive on lift.
 

crazystang25

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#8
  • Jul 3, 2010
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lewbud said:
I'd let a shop do the subframe connectors, unless you've got access to a drive on lift.
Click to expand...

i agree with this as well unless you are a skilled welder.
 
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darkside03gt

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Jul 3, 2010
#9
  • Jul 3, 2010
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I would buy a MM grip box. It won't cost you much more and comes with CC plates and bilstiens which no doubt will put the Eibach stuff to shame. Plus I have heard of far less problems H&R springs. I would do rear LCA's too while your at it. Just my two cents.
 

crazystang25

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#10
  • Jul 4, 2010
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Ya u can do that as well.
 
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Moon

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#11
  • Jul 4, 2010
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It really is a slippery slope- just upgrading small things here and there turns into a big project. Honestly, if I were you, just order the springs and have them put on. See how much you like it (or don't like it). Either way I'd go with H&R because I haven't heard anything bad about them (like the Eibach's), and that's what MM uses/recommends.

It really depends on what you want to do with your car, so test the waters and just get springs for now.
 

Dark04GT

10 Year Member
Apr 27, 2008
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#12
  • Jul 4, 2010
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I would get the subframe connectors professionally installed first. The MM's work perfect.

Then the shocks/struts and springs with CC plates. Then get a 4 wheel alignment because putting on springs will mess with your alignment. The CC plates makes it much easier to align the car, I did my car without the CC plates and I asked the tech how it was to align..... and he said it was a PITA with the stock equipment and I was maxing out the stock plates.

Anti roll bars should be last after all the above.

You picked a good combo, there are so many combos but if you stick with the major name brands you will get a good setup.
 
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Fink132

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Jul 5, 2010
#13
  • Jul 5, 2010
  • #13
Ya I tried to stay with a popular name-brand.
The H&R springs seem a bit more appealing now. I should probably spend the extra money and get new shocks/struts as well then I'm guessing (judging by the 1.76" front drop and 1.6" drop in the rear, my guess is the stock ones won't hold up long)
The Tokio struts/shocks are pretty cheap and I see they are recommended here
With new polyurethane spring isolators, the grand total comes to $889.92 plus shipping

Sound like a good way to go?
 

slayerripkdc

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Jun 3, 2003
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Jul 5, 2010
#14
  • Jul 5, 2010
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I am running the H&R's with Tokico blues. I must say the car handles great but it is a tad rough over bumps,
 
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darkside03gt

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Jul 5, 2010
#15
  • Jul 5, 2010
  • #15
Fink132 said:
Ya I tried to stay with a popular name-brand.
The H&R springs seem a bit more appealing now. I should probably spend the extra money and get new shocks/struts as well then I'm guessing (judging by the 1.76" front drop and 1.6" drop in the rear, my guess is the stock ones won't hold up long)
The Tokio struts/shocks are pretty cheap and I see they are recommended here
With new polyurethane spring isolators, the grand total comes to $889.92 plus shipping

Sound like a good way to go?
Click to expand...

Spend a little extra and get the mm grip box. Bilstiens>tokicos any day of the week plus you will get cc plates.
 
M

Moon

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#16
  • Jul 6, 2010
  • #16
darkside03gt said:
Spend a little extra and get the mm grip box. Bilstiens>tokicos any day of the week plus you will get cc plates.
Click to expand...

F'n A. If you do want to spend all that money, might as well do it right the first time. After all that, get yourself a catback and tint your windows and it will seem like a whole new car.
 

crazystang25

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#17
  • Jul 6, 2010
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darkside03gt said:
Spend a little extra and get the mm grip box. Bilstiens>tokicos any day of the week plus you will get cc plates.
Click to expand...

ya i would def go with the bilsteins over the tokicos, and as you said the box comes with CC plates.
 
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Fink132

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Mar 14, 2010
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Jul 6, 2010
#18
  • Jul 6, 2010
  • #18
Moon said:
F'n A. If you do want to spend all that money, might as well do it right the first time. After all that, get yourself a catback and tint your windows and it will seem like a whole new car.
Click to expand...

Well I already have an O/R X-pipe with magnaflows, and tint, so that side of it is done.

As for the blisteins, what do they run in price as compared to the tokicos??
Where can I get them from? I don't see them listed on American Muscle, but where's another good online store??
 
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darkside03gt

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#19
  • Jul 6, 2010
  • #19
Maximummotorsports.com.
 

crazystang25

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Jul 7, 2010
#20
  • Jul 7, 2010
  • #20
darkside03gt said:
Maximummotorsports.com.
Click to expand...

only place you need to look for suspension on a mustang imo.
 
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