Suspension Components

It's time for the next stage of the car, now that I have most of the basic bolt-ons. I want to do the brakes as well(need replacing) but it looks like the front Cobra calipers are on backorder at quite a few places that I like to shop. With that in mind, I'm moving onto suspension for now and will get the brakes ordered as soon as they are back in stock.

I want to get the car lowered with better shocks/struts. Maximum Motorsports had some great articles I read a while back that explained a lot of the things that were needed for this and some great tech stuff. Their website has been redone and all that is blank at the moment. I'd like to order the things I mentioned, and anything else that I would need to go along with them. Here is my list of stuff so far, anything I've forgotten please let me know or add your input if I could get it cheaper elsewhere. These prices are via Maximum Motorsports (except control arms).

H&R SuperSport Springs: $229
Bilstein Shocks/Struts: $621.89
Granatelli Control Arms: $170

Those two things are the most basic components needed for lowering the vehicle and better handling. Along with those, I could get isolators, caster camber plates, and pinion snubber. I'm not sure if those are really needed. The drop is 1.6"-1.75" according to H&R's website. Another thing I was looking at was just getting the Starter Kit from Maximum Motorsports for $1100 which would include the Springs, Shocks, Pinion Snubber, Isolators, and CasterCamber Plates.

Curious on your thoughts. Thanks!
 
Quickshift_02GT said:
It's time for the next stage of the car, now that I have most of the basic bolt-ons. I want to do the brakes as well(need replacing) but it looks like the front Cobra calipers are on backorder at quite a few places that I like to shop. With that in mind, I'm moving onto suspension for now and will get the brakes ordered as soon as they are back in stock.

I want to get the car lowered with better shocks/struts. Maximum Motorsports had some great articles I read a while back that explained a lot of the things that were needed for this and some great tech stuff. Their website has been redone and all that is blank at the moment. I'd like to order the things I mentioned, and anything else that I would need to go along with them. Here is my list of stuff so far, anything I've forgotten please let me know or add your input if I could get it cheaper elsewhere. These prices are via Maximum Motorsports (except control arms).

H&R SuperSport Springs: $229
Bilstein Shocks/Struts: $621.89
Granatelli Control Arms: $170

Those two things are the most basic components needed for lowering the vehicle and better handling. Along with those, I could get isolators, caster camber plates, and pinion snubber. I'm not sure if those are really needed. The drop is 1.6"-1.75" according to H&R's website. Another thing I was looking at was just getting the Starter Kit from Maximum Motorsports for $1100 which would include the Springs, Shocks, Pinion Snubber, Isolators, and CasterCamber Plates.

Curious on your thoughts. Thanks!
Back the train up, FORGET about granatelli and anything they are about when it comes to suspension.

If you can't afford MM LCA's, Pro3I makes good knock offs
 
Quickshift_02GT said:
Ok, why is that? Poor quality, bad experiences?
Chitty quality, rusts fast, improper sealing, very thin metal, easy bending, HUGE amount of flaws, the owner is a douche who keeps telling everyone he orginated alot of suspension parts, parts are made overseas which they claim are made in USA, etc etc

Quickshift_02GT said:
Just curious.
You can feed your curiosity http://forums.corner-carvers.com/showthread.php?t=25368



Quickshift_02GT said:
Any word on the rest of the setup?
sounds good, might want to search around for lower prices, like stangsuspension.com or ebay (not really recommended because of scammers though) for cheaper prices but whatever
 
talk to josh at www.stangsuspension.com good guy to deal with, and fairly knowledgable.

honestly i'd go with HR race, instead of SS. the SS drop more, but also change the geometry of the suspension, that and you are more likely to bottom out/scrape. also, get full length subframes before the LCAs. MM recommends subframes, LCAs, springs, shocks, PHB, TA, FLCA, Kmember, in that order. but then again, its all your preference.

look at my sig, my LCAs, PHB, and swaybar endlinks are in the mail, and my subframes are going on when i find a welder i feel comfortable with. this is about the ultimate in handeling (at least going on the right path... still have a few more pieces to go).

and for LCAs, the MM for sure, but if you are like me, the Pro3i, as well as the stangsuspension pieces are identical knockoffs. steeda steel ones are also solid, but i like the spherical bearing on the MM/knockoffs.

Torinalth
 
Quickshift_02GT said:
It's time for the next stage of the car, now that I have most of the basic bolt-ons. I want to do the brakes as well(need replacing) but it looks like the front Cobra calipers are on backorder at quite a few places that I like to shop. With that in mind, I'm moving onto suspension for now and will get the brakes ordered as soon as they are back in stock.

I want to get the car lowered with better shocks/struts. Maximum Motorsports had some great articles I read a while back that explained a lot of the things that were needed for this and some great tech stuff. Their website has been redone and all that is blank at the moment. I'd like to order the things I mentioned, and anything else that I would need to go along with them. Here is my list of stuff so far, anything I've forgotten please let me know or add your input if I could get it cheaper elsewhere. These prices are via Maximum Motorsports (except control arms).

H&R SuperSport Springs: $229
Bilstein Shocks/Struts: $621.89
Granatelli Control Arms: $170

Those two things are the most basic components needed for lowering the vehicle and better handling. Along with those, I could get isolators, caster camber plates, and pinion snubber. I'm not sure if those are really needed. The drop is 1.6"-1.75" according to H&R's website. Another thing I was looking at was just getting the Starter Kit from Maximum Motorsports for $1100 which would include the Springs, Shocks, Pinion Snubber, Isolators, and CasterCamber Plates.

Curious on your thoughts. Thanks!

make sure u get c/c plates... and also, lowering your vehicle that much is gonna mess with your steering geometry. i suggest getting a bumpsteer kit, as well as an extended ball joint kit. my steering was crappy, until i got those parts, now it steers like stock again. FRPP sells the bumpsteer kit and the ball joints. i didnt know that they sold em until after i already bought the steeda ones. g'luck man!!:nice:
 
I recieved this email this afternoon from Maximum Motorsports:

Depending on what springs you want, you might be best off getting upgraded struts and shocks. I would also strongly suggest a set of camber caster plates as well to assure an acceptable alignment can be attained. Many times when cars are lowered they cannot get an alignment to retain even tire wear. CC plates will correct that for you. You can also dial in a bit more aggressive alignment to help the car handle better. To help reduce a lot of chassis flex, I would strongly suggest a set of our full length subframe connectors. This will also aid in getting the car to handle better. With the H&R Super Sport springs I would definitely suggest CC plates. I would also suggest replacing the struts and shocks to help dampen that increase in spring rate.


Taking what he said, and what you guys said in mind...

I will be going with the Race or Sport springs instead of the SuperSport. I agree with you guys and feel that the SS are too much of a drop. The Granatelli Control Arms will be the MM or StangSuspensnion CA instead. I will go with the Lower Control Arms first and get the uppers later, because of the difference in price. It looks like everybody is recommending the subframe connectors, so I may get that with the package, or wait and get them not long after(same with the control arms).

I may get the Springs, shocks, CasterCamber Plates, and maybe Bumpsteer if I need it all at one time. Then not long after get the Lower Control Arms, Panhard Bar, and Subframes together.

So after pricing everything out, I think the Maximum Motorsports Starter Package would be the cheapest way to go and ensure that I have all the parts I'm looking for. I priced everything individually, but it ended up being more expensive.

The Starter Package is $1141.00 and comes with:

H&R Race Springs
Bilstein Struts/Shocks
MM Caster/Camber Plates
MM Urethane Pinion Snubber
Front and Rear Spring Isolators

Not long after, I will purchase:

MM Full-Length Subframe Connectors
MM Panhard Bar
Lower Control Arms (either MM or Pro3i)


I guess my last question is if the Pinion Snubber and Spring Isolators are necessary?
 
Hey, no problem. Just forgot to add it is all. I"m actually looking at the stuff right now on StangSuspension.

I see that StangSuspension also has the MM Starter Package for $1053 :D I'll just use the difference to toss in the Bumpsteer. :nice:


...do you know if the Pinion Snubber and Spring Isolators are required?
 
the bumpsteer helps, but with just that, your steering geometry will still be off. the extended ball joints are longer than the stock balljoints, and fix the geometry of the steering which is offset from lowering your vehicle... i did not get the ball joints untill later. and my steering really sucked. after i got the steeda x2 balljoints, it steered like stock again...
 
whoa, hold on a sec... here... sure teh steering will change VERY SLIGHTLY, but hes not needijng to be rushed into a bumpsteer kit, not by any means. if anything twards the end he will need to go with adjustable tie rod ends to make them parallel to the control arm... however the need for the ball joint in minimal especially with race springs and using urethane isolators. his drop will be at max 3/4" this keeping a LOT of his geometry in stock spec while still giving the cornering loads afforded by his purchases.

the only thing i ahve noticed is the slight crak/popping of my steering shaft due to the lowering, however this is minimal and just an annoyance, will be replaced when i do the front LCAs, and k member.

the pinion snubber is not needed, and in my case will be removed when i install my evo trilink... however the isolators are a personal preference. the isolators are pieces of urethane that sit between the metal spring and the metal mounting points of the spring perches. these insulate the units from vibration and thus noise. removing the isolators will allow you to get lower to the ground, almost 1/2" with new urethane isolators, however rise noise and spring rattle typically crops up before too long. i keep mine in for ride comfort, and to help keep my suspension geometry in check.

to get yourself going, do yourself a favor and use the live help button at the top right of stangsuspension and when its active tap it and ask for josh. tell him you were refered to him to have a package pieced together for a better purchase price. and get your MM CC plates, bilsteins, and HR race springs for a cheaper price.

Torinalth
 
Torinalth said:
whoa, hold on a sec... here... sure teh steering will change VERY SLIGHTLY, but hes not needijng to be rushed into a bumpsteer kit, not by any means. if anything twards the end he will need to go with adjustable tie rod ends to make them parallel to the control arm... however the need for the ball joint in minimal especially with race springs and using urethane isolators. his drop will be at max 3/4" this keeping a LOT of his geometry in stock spec while still giving the cornering loads afforded by his purchases.


Torinalth

oh, i did not realize it was only a 3/4" drop.... my car needed those 2 items bad. and i didn't use the spacers with the ball joints, so it dropped the front another 1/2". it looks sweet. :D
 
four.six said:
if u want, u can lower your car without getting the extended balljoint kit... but after you notice that it steers like crap, u will get the kit.



sorry, i dont know anything about those....

OR you can ru nthe MM adj. tie rod kit with the bolt through design instead of the tapered spinle and you wont need the extended balljoints, cause of the better tange of the bolt through kit.
Tie Rod ends(with bolt through design), Alum Rack bushings and C/C/ plates will have you set.