Suspension Gurus: How important to re-align after strut change?

[Husky44]

Just installed the Eibach Pro-Dampers. Already running Eibach springs, and MM CC kit that I installed last spring. Had a good alignment done then, but was still running stock dampers. So, my question is:

If alignment was good, and assuming that struts don't carry any of car load, but just damp the rebound of the springs, which do carry the load, my logic says that my alignment should still be good, since I didn't mess with the springs. Any flaws to that logic?

 

[Adam95GT]

Just installed the Eibach Pro-Dampers. Already running Eibach springs, and MM CC kit that I installed last spring. Had a good alignment done then, but was still running stock dampers. So, my question is:

If alignment was good, and assuming that struts don't carry any of car load, but just damp the rebound of the springs, which do carry the load, my logic says that my alignment should still be good, since I didn't mess with the springs. Any flaws to that logic?

Id assume your still good as long as you didnt move your CC plates.

You usually only need to with a spring, coilover, a arm change... id leave it and just keep an eye on tire wear and for odd pulling.

 

[Husky44]

Id assume your still good as long as you didnt move your CC plates.

You usually only need to with a spring, coilover, a arm change... id leave it and just keep an eye on tire wear and for odd pulling.

Didn't move CC plates.

Anyone disagree?

 

[Tanus]

its fine, just pay attention to tire wear

 

[HISSIN50]

I also would not sweat it.

 

[ProKiller]

on a related note, how critical is it to get it aligned after a rack/pinion swap? my wheel is clocked maybe 30* that i want to readjust the tie rods to fix but should i get it aligned after that? doesn't seem to pull

 

[Adam95GT]

on a related note, how critical is it to get it aligned after a rack/pinion swap? my wheel is clocked maybe 30* that i want to readjust the tie rods to fix but should i get it aligned after that? doesn't seem to pull

Id get that one aligned... Old school trick was to count the number of turns it takes to get the tie rod ends off and put them back the same amount. Also you can measure from the center to center of your back wheels. i think the front should be about 1'' shorter from center to center or something like that. Maybe someone here can confirm

 

[ProKiller]

so eyeballing it isn't enough huh

 

[Adam95GT]

so eyeballing it isn't enough huh

Like i said somehow backing out of a parking lot just my front tire hit a pole and i bent a tie rod... like completely ****ed it up.

I drove the thing 20 miles with my tire basically half dragging half rolling. Got it to a shop i only had money to get the tie rod fixed they insisted on an alignment. Was a small mom and pop shop so i went in and twisted off the end and counted. Never got the thing aligned and drove pin strait. Just a little inside tire wear on the one side after 20k miles. Like i said its not the best way to do things but you can get by with an eyeball.

 

[HISSIN50]

Toe spec is like ~ 1/8" toed in as I recall. Most shops with newer racks use degrees.

Ryan, I'd also recommend an alignment. If you tell them you only did the rack (and if your alignment was in-spec before) so Toe should be all that needs tweaking, you might get it done cheaper.

You won't necessarily feel a pull with toe out of spec.