Suspension keys to better 60' times.

Venom351R

Founding Member
Apr 27, 2002
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Right now my rear suspension is stock except for the Cobra R springs. I want to improve my 60' times. I know nittos are not the best DR's but my best time on them is 1.9 on my GT when I had it and as of now my best time is 2.1 (on a crappy track night).

I know upper/lower control arms are a must a long with an anti roll bar but is there anything else I should really get to help lower my 60' times as far as the rear suspension goes? Are regular steel control arms good enough or should I go for the aluminum and what about adjustable ones?
 
adjustable control arms so u can dial in the pinion angle

soft front suspension setup (drag springs or coil overs)

adjustable shocks/struts

stiff rears and soft fronts

subframes will help with wieght transfer
 
Im not looking at over hauling the whole suspension right now. Just as far as the back end to help with the traction. I'll get to the rest of it later on.

It already has sub frames.
 
Tire press.

diff. launch tech.

practice

I cut a best of 1.9 60ft on 245 45 or 50 16 bridgstone potenza RE910's street tires (89$ tire).

I played around with the tire psi and diff. launch rpms until I found that sweet spot.

When I started running DR I am in a whole new learning curve. I talked to a few local guys that have been around the block with DR's. The best advise I got was HEAT them up and DO NOT TRY TO DUMP THE CLUTCH. The guy said to ride/ease the clutch and wait for the "feel" of the tires getting grip then dump it. He said that once a heated up DR is hooking it is alot harder to break it loose. It takes some practice but the first time out of the box I dropped .2 on my best prior 60ft.
 
I know my launch has a lot to do with it b/c Ive only had this car at the track for one time so far. I def heated the Nitto's up enough. The inside of the car as filling up with tire smoke. I was cutting better times with my GT but I had taken that to the track much more then this car so its still a learning curve. Regardless that will come with time the more I go.
 
I dont dump the clutch off the line to begin with, I do slip it. I know my driving tech will improve the more I go but what Im really looking for is good upgrades for the rear end to help assist with better 60' times. I know the basics to get but was not sure if going aluminum and adjustable was over kill for a street/occasional strip car.

Maxiumum Motorsports makes a nice Soild Rear Axle Grip Box that you see in their add in 5.0 Magazine and Im sure others as well but I cant find that package on their site anywhere.
 
Before control arms I would suggest adj. shocks/struts. Try them first.
Then move on to the lca and uca.

With the adjustables up front and in the rear I have total control.
I can have the rear super rigid and the fronts fully soft to transfer weight to the rear tires.
And, when not at the track, I can adjust for DD or corner carving.
 
I just went with the UPR non-adj. U/Lca setup. I am 100% happy so far. I dont have any 1/4 times but it feels firm yet civilized :D . I am running bullitt springs and tokico 5ways right now but will be swapping on some bullitt spec shocks/struts by end of summer.

I would put MM over steeda...to me steeda is just high price for avg. aftermarket parts. If your wanting to go cheap but quality get UPR if your wanting hands down the best package MM is going to be HARD to beat.
 
Thanks for the reply's, I Think Im going to go with the MM kit. I may not buy it directly though them if I can piece it together or get it through someone else for cheeper.

The 4 point cage and the Roush subframes make it pretty stiff as it is. Im going to the track again this friday and the temps will be much better then they were the last time I went so I'll see what I get for 60' times and 1/4 times.
 

Heres what I dont get for that kit.

MM offers two different types of rear lower control arms: Heavy-Duty and Extreme-Duty. The difference between the two is the bushing configuration. The Heavy-Duty arms are suitable for cars with moderate horsepower levels that are not drag raced. We recommend the Extreme-Duty control arms for any car that is drag raced, and any car with the higher horsepower levels that come with superchargers, larger displacement engines, etc.



That kit offers Heavy Duty Adjustable arms but according to them its not meant for cars that are drag raced while the extreme duty is meant for higher HP engines or with supercharges or larger displacement motors. I have a 351W and I prob will end up with a Vortech under the hood eventually.

Looks Like I should get the Extreme duty adjustable arms then.