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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Suspension keys to better 60' times.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Venom351R
  • Start date Start date Jun 24, 2007

Venom351R

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Jun 24, 2007
#1
  • Jun 24, 2007
  • #1
Right now my rear suspension is stock except for the Cobra R springs. I want to improve my 60' times. I know nittos are not the best DR's but my best time on them is 1.9 on my GT when I had it and as of now my best time is 2.1 (on a crappy track night).

I know upper/lower control arms are a must a long with an anti roll bar but is there anything else I should really get to help lower my 60' times as far as the rear suspension goes? Are regular steel control arms good enough or should I go for the aluminum and what about adjustable ones?
 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"
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Sep 24, 2002
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Jun 24, 2007
#2
  • Jun 24, 2007
  • #2
adjustable control arms so u can dial in the pinion angle

soft front suspension setup (drag springs or coil overs)

adjustable shocks/struts

stiff rears and soft fronts

subframes will help with wieght transfer
 

Venom351R

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Jun 24, 2007
#3
  • Jun 24, 2007
  • #3
Im not looking at over hauling the whole suspension right now. Just as far as the back end to help with the traction. I'll get to the rest of it later on.

It already has sub frames.
 

blksn955.o

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Mar 15, 2002
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Jun 24, 2007
#4
  • Jun 24, 2007
  • #4
Tire press.

diff. launch tech.

practice

I cut a best of 1.9 60ft on 245 45 or 50 16 bridgstone potenza RE910's street tires (89$ tire).

I played around with the tire psi and diff. launch rpms until I found that sweet spot.

When I started running DR I am in a whole new learning curve. I talked to a few local guys that have been around the block with DR's. The best advise I got was HEAT them up and DO NOT TRY TO DUMP THE CLUTCH. The guy said to ride/ease the clutch and wait for the "feel" of the tires getting grip then dump it. He said that once a heated up DR is hooking it is alot harder to break it loose. It takes some practice but the first time out of the box I dropped .2 on my best prior 60ft.
 

Venom351R

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#5
  • Jun 24, 2007
  • #5
I know my launch has a lot to do with it b/c Ive only had this car at the track for one time so far. I def heated the Nitto's up enough. The inside of the car as filling up with tire smoke. I was cutting better times with my GT but I had taken that to the track much more then this car so its still a learning curve. Regardless that will come with time the more I go.
 

final5-0

Mustang Master
Apr 6, 2003
6,817
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79
DFW Texas
Jun 24, 2007
#6
  • Jun 24, 2007
  • #6
+1 on slipping the clutch just a bit

Grady
 

Venom351R

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Jun 25, 2007
#7
  • Jun 25, 2007
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I dont dump the clutch off the line to begin with, I do slip it. I know my driving tech will improve the more I go but what Im really looking for is good upgrades for the rear end to help assist with better 60' times. I know the basics to get but was not sure if going aluminum and adjustable was over kill for a street/occasional strip car.

Maxiumum Motorsports makes a nice Soild Rear Axle Grip Box that you see in their add in 5.0 Magazine and Im sure others as well but I cant find that package on their site anywhere.
 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"
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#8
  • Jun 25, 2007
  • #8
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=333

non adjustable: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=332
 

JJ95GTID

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Sep 22, 2003
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Jun 25, 2007
#9
  • Jun 25, 2007
  • #9
Before control arms I would suggest adj. shocks/struts. Try them first.
Then move on to the lca and uca.

With the adjustables up front and in the rear I have total control.
I can have the rear super rigid and the fronts fully soft to transfer weight to the rear tires.
And, when not at the track, I can adjust for DD or corner carving.
 

Venom351R

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#10
  • Jun 25, 2007
  • #10
urban96 said:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=333

non adjustable: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=332
Click to expand...

Thanks Urban I dont know why I couldnt find that last night, must have been excessive tiredness from work. Thanks though
 

Venom351R

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#11
  • Jun 25, 2007
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I would assume this is a better package then the MM kit. I want my car to hook good in the first 60'. I also plan on getting better tires then the Nittos. I want to get the most out of the car N/A as I can before I decide to boost it perhaps next summer.


http://www.steeda.com/products/pro_drag_suspension_paks_79-04.php
 

go-stang5.0

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Jan 27, 2003
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Jun 25, 2007
#12
  • Jun 25, 2007
  • #12
I would say the MM kit is better if your gonna use it off the track also. The PHB bar MM sells makes a world of difference in the back end of the car.
 

blksn955.o

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#13
  • Jun 25, 2007
  • #13
I just went with the UPR non-adj. U/Lca setup. I am 100% happy so far. I dont have any 1/4 times but it feels firm yet civilized . I am running bullitt springs and tokico 5ways right now but will be swapping on some bullitt spec shocks/struts by end of summer.

I would put MM over steeda...to me steeda is just high price for avg. aftermarket parts. If your wanting to go cheap but quality get UPR if your wanting hands down the best package MM is going to be HARD to beat.
 

Black95GTS

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Jan 8, 2004
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Jun 25, 2007
#14
  • Jun 25, 2007
  • #14
Lower control arms are key, but uppers aren't as important. A stronger differential, slicks, lower control arms, and full length welded subframe connectors will plant you firmly.

Adam
 

Venom351R

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#15
  • Jun 25, 2007
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Thanks for the reply's, I Think Im going to go with the MM kit. I may not buy it directly though them if I can piece it together or get it through someone else for cheeper.

The 4 point cage and the Roush subframes make it pretty stiff as it is. Im going to the track again this friday and the temps will be much better then they were the last time I went so I'll see what I get for 60' times and 1/4 times.
 

Venom351R

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#16
  • Jun 25, 2007
  • #16
urban96 said:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=333
Click to expand...

Heres what I dont get for that kit.

MM offers two different types of rear lower control arms: Heavy-Duty and Extreme-Duty. The difference between the two is the bushing configuration. The Heavy-Duty arms are suitable for cars with moderate horsepower levels that are not drag raced. We recommend the Extreme-Duty control arms for any car that is drag raced, and any car with the higher horsepower levels that come with superchargers, larger displacement engines, etc.



That kit offers Heavy Duty Adjustable arms but according to them its not meant for cars that are drag raced while the extreme duty is meant for higher HP engines or with supercharges or larger displacement motors. I have a 351W and I prob will end up with a Vortech under the hood eventually.

Looks Like I should get the Extreme duty adjustable arms then.
 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"
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#17
  • Jun 25, 2007
  • #17
try www.stangsuspension.com they have good prices on MM stuff and discounts for corral/stangnet members
 

legalize420

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May 21, 2005
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South Florida
Jun 25, 2007
#18
  • Jun 25, 2007
  • #18
http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/
 

Venom351R

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Jun 26, 2007
#19
  • Jun 26, 2007
  • #19
Thanks for the links guys.
 
B

brands5.0

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Jun 26, 2007
#20
  • Jun 26, 2007
  • #20
If you really want to hook Team z makes some really good uppers and lowers also baseline stuff you'll only have to buy it once even if you racing i cut 1.3x with team z upper and lowers and 90/10 in front and 50/50 rears

http://www.teamzmotorsports.net/products.html
 
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