Suspension Mod Advice

BlueGT-FL · Feb 28, 2008

Hey Guys,

First post and looking for some advice. I'm wondering which of the three choices might be the best for the '08. I'll be throwing 20s on with mods, and it will mostly be for street, as I don't track the car, well, at leat not yet.

K Springs with Tokico D-Specs and CC plates

or

FRPP Handling Pack

or

Coilovers

So, what's your choice?

Thanks Guys!!
Chris

walter · Feb 28, 2008

My choice is a Fays2 watts link.

stumpjumperpro · Feb 28, 2008

I have been trying to decide the same thing. I had pretty much decided on the D-Specs and Eibach Pro springs, but a friend threw a wrench in my thoughts.

What would be lighter? Would the coilovers be a lighter setup than strut and springs? Even though I might would not change specs on the coilovers it would be nice knowing that I have the option.

What would be a better ride? Struts and springs or coilovers?

Sorry to somewhat jack the thread, but I thought these might be questions to help you as well.

menace07 · Feb 28, 2008

I think for a street driven stang, your best bet would be the dspecs. I've heard only good things about em, and I think the frpp kit would be a little too harsh of a ride, especially with 20's.

DarkFireGT · Feb 28, 2008

I have D-Specs and the Eibach Pro Kit waiting to get installed. Did a lot of looking around. The D-Specs get so much praise, as does the Pro Kit. Haven't heard any complaints on either.

BlueGT-FL · Feb 29, 2008

Thanks for the info, guys.

a couple of more questions:
Since the D-specs are adjustable, is there really that much of a weight savings using coilovers, instead of the dspec/Prokit package? Does it really matter in my situation?

I know I will need to bring the rear back into alignment. Is an adjustable panhard sufficient, or is it better to go the WATTS link route? I'm not worried about the cost, just want to make sure the benefit is there with the WATTS, at least in my case. Remember: just street, no strip or track in the forseeable future.

And, stumpjumper, no problem on the minor threadjack. You asked all questions that need to be answered, as well!!

kooldawg6 · Feb 29, 2008

If it's just for street enjoyment, I don't see why an adjustable panhard bar and adjustable upper control arm(to get the proper pinion angle back if needed from lowering)won't be more than sufficiant for you. Stangsuspension.com is a great place to shop for goodies! I've gotten springs, upper strut mounts and panhard bar from them and they have decent prices and great customer service as I recieved a phone call from them about a week after recieving the springs to see how the install went adn how I like the ride

Here is their page of coil-over kits.
http://www.stangsuspension.com/store/comersus_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=120

menace07 · Feb 29, 2008

Some people will tell you you HAVE to get this or that, but in reality, you should be ok without other mods as long as you keep the drop around 1.5" or less. That being said, some people drop there's and the rear is way out of alignment. U could always do springs and dampers, then check your rear alignment and go from there. I've heard great things about watts link, but it might be overkill for a street stang...im interested to try it myself. Good Luck!
p.s....dont forget camber bolts

o0Dan0o · Feb 29, 2008

What I put in another thread:

Ok, take this for what you will but I've been researching suspension parts for mustangs since about 97.

The watts link is a "superior" method of centering the real axle when compared to the pan hard bar, as the watts will keep the axle centered and the BHP moves the axle from side to side with suspension travel. But the effect is minimal and actually counteracts the effect of engine torque on the rearend (drive shaft torques the rearend right and the PHB torques it left (or visa versa, can't remeber which). So all in all, I wouldn't pay for the watts link over the PHB (simply beef up the stock PHB setup). I would simply put my money elsewhere.

That said, the lakewood unit looks of the proper design. You want the pivot point attached to that chassis, as it is, and the axle brackets are probably sufficient. If it's rigid enough is another question... You may have to reroute the exhaust as well, a pretty big downside, (Edit: so does the Fays 2, at a glance I would buy the Fays 2).

To add to that, someone pointed out the with the PHB the axle moves from side to side, this is true but with the mustang PHB (looks to be about 3' long) 3" of suspension travel will move the axle about an eighth of an inch. Also, the axle doesn't rotate about the pivot point of the PHB like some diagrams suggest, it moves in accordance to the cornering forces and the springs/shocks, just the same as a Watts link.
Dan

jack1.1 · Mar 9, 2008

menace07 said:
Some people will tell you you HAVE to get this or that, but in reality, you should be ok without other mods as long as you keep the drop around 1.5" or less. That being said, some people drop there's and the rear is way out of alignment. U could always do springs and dampers, then check your rear alignment and go from there. I've heard great things about watts link, but it might be overkill for a street stang...im interested to try it myself. Good Luck!
p.s....dont forget camber bolts

This guy Menance07 knows what he is talking about.

I HAD prolines on my mustang, car was too low. Only had 5.25" of clear from the ground to the roush chin spoiler. My rear was perfectly centered no need for any adjustment. Replaced with the Roush suspension kit/bars/shocks/springs. Again, rear stayed put, no need for any adjustment. Your wasting your money with an adjustable panhard, unless you do something wrong, remove the whole axle, or, drop it in the weeds.

Yours is a street car, you say, there are so many suspension things out there like kids in a candy shop. Sure everything out there works, but maybe not on a street driven car. I have never driven a watts link car, but I would definately try to before I forked over that kind of money to see if it is worth it to you. I don't think that is something you'd see any gains on with street driving. kind of like adjustable LCA's, unless you drag race each weekend, really no need on the street. The list goes on.

For me, I wanted well engineered stuff that works good on the street. For me that's the whole roush suspension kit which is wonderful, and the GT 500 LCA's.

I would think (although I have never driven one) that the Ford Racing kit will yield similar results to the Roush kit.

The biggest change to handling and ride you will see is changing the springs. If you are on a budget just change the springs and the rear sway bar (if you can swing it). Everything else is minor in it's result (on the street). And dont forget the camber bolts and an alignment, unless you want to wear your stuff out and buy new tires. With 20's I woul not go lower than 1" or 1.25".

just my .04 worth

menace07 · Mar 9, 2008

The only thing i will add is that, although the frpp kit looks great, Ive heard that the ride is overly harsh because the dampers arent properly tuned for the springs. This means you're on the bumpstops more when u really push the car, and a bumpier ride than stock or something like dspecs

DarkFireGT · Mar 9, 2008

If you're dropping your car over an inch, and you're rear end is not out of alignment, that means one of 3 things. You're measuring wrong, you're getting a larger difference than 1/8" and just don't care, or your axle was not correctly lined up from the factory. When you drop an inch or more, you definitely change the rear suspension geometry, which does affect the way the axle is centered. I don't care who you are. It happens. Your car is no different than anyone else's. If your measurements are right, and both sides are withing 1/8" of each other, then your car was off from the factory.

You guys are right. There's a lot of parts out there you don't HAVE to have. But I didn't pay $30k for a car to fall apart on me after a couple of years.

V8JamesGT · Mar 11, 2008

What about the Tokico HPs as a cheaper alternative to the D-Specs?

chad9350 · Mar 12, 2008

Remember one thing...

Get what YOU want... if you change your mind, and take advice from ?????, if anything isnt what you want, you'll alwayse second guess.

Modding is a progression, the fun part.

Get what you want, when you can IE Never get something your not sure about, or overextend $; in doing that, you'll stay happy with your car and mods.

Which, is all what it's about

Take your time, and have fun making your car, yours

o0Dan0o · Mar 12, 2008

DarkFireGT said:
If you're dropping your car over an inch, and you're rear end is not out of alignment, that means one of 3 things. You're measuring wrong, you're getting a larger difference than 1/8" and just don't care, or your axle was not correctly lined up from the factory. When you drop an inch or more, you definitely change the rear suspension geometry, which does affect the way the axle is centered.

True, but the change in axle position (from left-right center) is very small for a change of a few inches. Like I posted above, I'm not sure exactly how long of a PHB the mustang has but I'm guessing around three feet (if anyone knows please say). even a vertical movement of 6" gives a lateral movement of only ~1/2". If the PHB is two feet and the car goes through 6" of travel the lateral movement is 3/4". Even then not much...
Dan

DarkFireGT · Mar 12, 2008

The PHB is 41" long, I believe. If the sides are not within an 1/8" of each other, that needs to be addressed. So, even lowering an inch CAN (not necessarily will) put it out of spec.

o0Dan0o · Mar 13, 2008

DarkFireGT said:
The PHB is 41" long, I believe. If the sides are not within an 1/8" of each other, that needs to be addressed. So, even lowering an inch CAN (not necessarily will) put it out of spec.

That's why I'll buy an adjustable, I just don't trust anything to be perfect. It'd be very easy for the aftermarket bar to be off by just a little bit... I also wouldn't be surprised if a lot of cars from ford are out by 1/8", and every car is a little different.

A proper adjustable PHB can be adjusted with the bar on the car and the car on the ground too. But by far the more important mod is the LCA relocation brackets, the change in angle makes a very big difference in suspension geometry.
Dan

Hoboattacker · Mar 13, 2008

o0Dan0o said:
True, but the change in axle position (from left-right center) is very small for a change of a few inches. Like I posted above, I'm not sure exactly how long of a PHB the mustang has but I'm guessing around three feet (if anyone knows please say). even a vertical movement of 6" gives a lateral movement of only ~1/2". If the PHB is two feet and the car goes through 6" of travel the lateral movement is 3/4". Even then not much...
Dan

That 1/2" is a very noticeable thing, though. I lowered my car and without wheels/tires it wasn't that noticeable. But with the new wheels and tires it is VERY VERY noticeable.

o0Dan0o · Mar 13, 2008

Hoboattacker said:
That 1/2" is a very noticeable thing, though. I lowered my car and without wheels/tires it wasn't that noticeable. But with the new wheels and tires it is VERY VERY noticeable.

That was simply an example showing the disparity between suspension travel and axle lateral movement. Normal suspension travel is ~1-2" depending on how stiff the springs are, and thats about the center. Darkfire said the PHB is about 41 inches long, thats 1/20" in lateral axle movement for 2" of suspension travel.
Dan

Stangshark · Mar 13, 2008

Hey if price is no object I have been looking into the Watts link by Saleen that comes on Parnelli Jones cars. I want to roadrace as well though too.

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