Suspension Setup

Sounds good except for your choice of shocks/struts. I would go with Bilstein with the self-adjusting monotube instead for around the same price on Ebay. Unless you want adjustability, then get Tokico D-spec, also around $500 on ebay. KYB is more of stock-replacement rather than performance, also stay away from Tokico HP (they're really cheap for a reason).

As for installation, you could do it yourself dude; except for the SFC (muffler shop will do that for around $50-100). I did 90% of the suspension work myself, only my dad helped me a little bit when an extra set of hands was necessary. Any shop will charge you an arm and a leg for installation.

Do yourself a favor and spend a little more for some H&R's. Won't cost that much over the C's, but will offer better performance/build/handling.

You could actually get a kit from MM that would have what you wanted. They can put together a kit for you and offer you a discount too.

Your forgetting the MM caster camber plates. With out them, your tires will be gone in a month.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOKI...9QQihZ006QQcategoryZ33590QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I'd get these if you want adjustability and good springs with a mild drop. I got the same setup but with the non-adjustable shocks and I love it. I cut a half coil off the front springs and the ride and stance are perfect.

To answer the above guy, I've had my springs on for about 5000 miles, only about an inch of fender gap and lots of negative camber, and my tires are just fine. They were actually wearing on the outside. Its not the camber that messes up the tires that bad but the toe in/out. I do need C/C plates, but I'm living without them for now cuz I need to buy stuff for my blower install. No biggie really.

you really do need CC plates, for any kind of lowering.. the stock plates just dont have the ability to correct the camber.
the kyb AGX are nothing special.. not bad, but i wouldnt buy them in favor of just about anything else. and why do you want adjustability? might make it easier to figure out where to steer you.

no installing springs is not dangerous if you dont go at it like a moron. even first timers have no issues as long as you use your head and not try and hank out a compressed spring. aside from that its cake.

Torinalth

Installing springs isn't dangerous. The springs won't "pop out and kill someone across the shop!" like some people are convinced they will. Basically you jack up the control arms/axles, disconnect everything that will drag (brakes, tie rods, sway bar, etc.), then undo the strut/shock and lower the arms/axle and pull the springs out. Put the new ones in, jack it back up, but everything back together, izzzz done!

Sometimes in the front an internal spring compressor can be nice to have, but it's not always necessary.

KYB's are decent, not the best, not the worst. They are certainly better than stock, though.

CC plates are really a must no matter what...even if your only slightly outa spec when lowered, CC plates will allow you to add more caster, which increases feel, wheel return, and straight line tracking (makes the front end feel "tighter").

the CC plate thing varries from cat to car and the c spings seem to vary as well. CC plates are a good addition though for handling but do transmit a little road noise. Read up on them most poeple don't read enough about suspention before they buy.

here are my three sugestions for suspention from least to most expensive

1. tokico hp kit $400 (off ebay)
2. MM lca $250
3. MM subs $200 (installed)
=$850

or

tokico ILL kit $550 (ebay)
mm lca $250
MM subs $200 (installed)
CC plates $200 (optional)
$900-$1150

or

H&R sports $250
bilsteins $500
MM lca $250
MM subs $200
MM CC plates $200
=$1400

www.stangsuspension.com is where i get my stuff.

and yes, do a lot more reading, draw out your goals and desires, and be ready to accept information that will probably go against what you had first thought.

Torinalth

Stang2003GT said:

How do I find information on the spring specs.

I want at least 650lbs front and 240lbs+ out back.

Click to expand...

Here's some info I dug up on some different spring rates:

SPRING.............................FRONT......REAR
Stock GT.......................400-500......165-265
Stock 94-95 Cobra..............400...........160
Stock 96-98 Cobra..........400-505......165-265
Stock 00-01 Cobra….......…..500…....…..470
Stock 00 Cobra R….........…..800……..…..750
Eibach ProKit cpe.1.5".....460-570......200-250
Eibach ProKit vert.1.5"....460-570......170-310
Eibach Sport....................660............260
Eibach Race..................700-850......200-260
FMS "B"........................425-530......200-300
FMS "C"..........................650..........200-230
FRPP "R".......................700-850......200-260
H&R Sport 1.5"..............500-575......250-285
H&R Supersport 1.5".......700-760......275-300
H&R Race........................750............265
H&R Superrace................1020...........300
Suspension Tech Street.....725............230
Suspension Tech Comp......850............280
Steeda Sport 1.25"...........650.........200-250
Steeda Comp/St 1.25".....700-850.......250
Steeda Full Comp 1.35"....850-1050.....???
Global West 1.0"...............800..........160
Global West Drag 1.0"........680..........160
Global West Comp 1.0"......1000.........160
Griggs coil-overs.........350 to 500 +50.175 no TA
Griggs coil-overs.............225 w TA + panhard
Dech Speeddrive 1.5"...1000-1200....210-280
Jamex 1.5"..................450-550......170-220
MAC .....600,680,700,800,925..160,170,190,215
Mac progressives..........450-520......200-230
Saleen (Eibach ProKit?)..460-570.....200-250
Kenny Brown 1.5"............650..........???
MRT Race 1.75"......650......275-300