Suspension Sucks...spinnin' Ain't Winnin'

1sxyFoxbody · Dec 25, 2015

ok, I have an 89 gt. Previous owner swears its factory springs and shocks. It HAS to be lowered. I bottom out often and front wheels rub constant while turning. Wheels are 17x9 and 17x8 cobra replicas. I took it to the track to see what it'd run...best time was 13.84 spinning past the 60'. Granted...all season tires..but..those will be changed soon. I can't break the bank on suspension right now either though. I need help with what to run that will give me some weight transfer and help with hooking up without draining my wallet. Thanks in advance!

mikestang63 · Dec 26, 2015

welcome to Stangnet.

If your car is bottoming out then you need to check your springs and shocks. Lowering the car will not help with bottoming out and I do not recommend lowering the car over 1-1 1/2 inches or you throw off geometry. I prefer Steeda or H&R Springs.

The best bang for your bucks to help with traction is a good set of drag radials. Know that the better you stick, the more strain you put on your torque boxes and rear control arms and bushings.

It all comes down to this- how much do you want to spend?

1sxyFoxbody · Dec 26, 2015

mikestang63 said:
welcome to Stangnet.

If your car is bottoming out then you need to check your springs and shocks. Lowering the car will not help with bottoming out and I do not recommend lowering the car over 1-1 1/2 inches or you throw off geometry. I prefer Steeda or H&R Springs.

The best bang for your bucks to help with traction is a good set of drag radials. Know that the better you stick, the more strain you put on your torque boxes and rear control arms and bushings.

It all comes down to this- how much do you want to spend?

The car is already lowered. I have no wish to lower it more. Would like to get it back up to where it should be. That is my over all question. How do i get it back to stock or so. And, what if i just get a 1 1/2 to 2" drop kit is it going to be okay or the same as now? Or do i need to consider factory height replacements?

2000xp8 · Dec 26, 2015

What is your mod list (signature section comes in handy).
Second, what are the 60ft and mph of your timeslip?

Subframe connectors on the car? That is always first on the list.

Suspension work and sticky tires usually result in a chain reaction of events. Each time you tighten up one portion, another show's it's weakness.

1sxyFoxbody · Dec 27, 2015

Added my signature. Hopefully it shows up

A5literMan · Dec 27, 2015

Simplest way to increase performance is with sticky tires. With a manual trans this usually takes some slicks/bias ply dot legal track tires i.e. Hoosiers,M&H,Mickey Thompson etc. If you are looking for a compromise for street and strip duty look into some drag radials. They are way better than regular seasonal tires but not as good as the previous tires I mentioned for track usage. As for some cheap suspension advise buy some Strange engineering adj struts and shocks. These will help transfer weight and still be adjustable for the street. The spring height in and of itself does not effect weight transfer. That is dependent on spring rates/construction. What size tires do you have on the front that are rubbing?

1sxyFoxbody · Dec 28, 2015

The fronts are 225/55/17's. They were on there when i got the car. They rub turning all the time once its remotely sharp. I.e. puling in a driveway or parking space.

A5literMan said:
Simplest way to increase performance is with sticky tires. With a manual trans this usually takes some slicks/bias ply dot legal track tires i.e. Hoosiers,M&H,Mickey Thompson etc. If you are looking for a compromise for street and strip duty look into some drag radials. They are way better than regular seasonal tires but not as good as the previous tires I mentioned for track usage. As for some cheap suspension advise buy some Strange engineering adj struts and shocks. These will help transfer weight and still be adjustable for the street. The spring height in and of itself does not effect weight transfer. That is dependent on spring rates/construction. What size tires do you have on the front that are rubbing?

A5literMan · Dec 28, 2015

Try a shorter sidewall like 235-245/45-17. They shouldn't rub. Lots of people run those on stock and/or lowered cars.

1sxyFoxbody · Dec 29, 2015

A5literMan said:
Try a shorter sidewall like 235-245/45-17. They shouldn't rub. Lots of people run those on stock and/or lowered cars.

Okay, and is there a certain spring rate I should look for if i replace them? Also, what about the quad shocks. Most guys get rid of these, right?

2000xp8 · Dec 29, 2015

I wouldn't remove the quads unless you have to. Also aftermarket control arms are a prerequisite for such a move. Those tires are likely too tall like a5literman said. Not sure i've ever heard of someone with a 17 and a 55 series tire.

For a spring rate in the front, a 150 is pretty much for drag racing and a 300+ is for road racing. That should give you an idea of where to start choosing. Might want to find a happy medium as for the 150's make the front end feel very light. Wayyyyy to light for my personal driving habits.

Try and figure out what springs you have first. If you get the rubbing straightened and some good tires you may not really need to compromise all your handling just for a couple tenths.
If there are no isolators a set energy suspension isolators will bring your ride up just shy of a quarter of an inch.

What was your 60ft and mph on the run you list?

1sxyFoxbody · Jan 2, 2016

2000xp8 said:
I wouldn't remove the quads unless you have to. Also aftermarket control arms are a prerequisite for such a move. Those tires are likely too tall like a5literman said. Not sure i've ever heard of someone with a 17 and a 55 series tire.

For a spring rate in the front, a 150 is pretty much for drag racing and a 300+ is for road racing. That should give you an idea of where to start choosing. Might want to find a happy medium as for the 150's make the front end feel very light. Wayyyyy to light for my personal driving habits.

Try and figure out what springs you have first. If you get the rubbing straightened and some good tires you may not really need to compromise all your handling just for a couple tenths.
If there are no isolators a set energy suspension isolators will bring your ride up just shy of a quarter of an inch.

What was your 60ft and mph on the run you list?

I cant find the time slips for the 60ft times. But i know mph was 103 and 104.

A5literMan · Jan 2, 2016

A good compromise for spring rates would be around 200# give or take 25. If you're not a "corner carver" and want straight line weight transfer w/some street time go with 150# springs(I did). Mine are coilovers though. They didn't bother me on the street,but do not handle like a stiff(er) spring. My front suspension consists of Strange adj struts/mm coilover kit and cc plates and still have an UPR bumpsteer kit. With the struts set in at 5/6(10 way adj) it rides better than any combo I've had. I have yet taken it to the track and completely loosened them up. Even at 5 the struts/springs try to weight transfer. The rear suspension is really where there is some hidden voodoo to have a great race suspension.

Suspension Sucks...spinnin' Ain't Winnin'

1sxyFoxbody

mikestang63

1sxyFoxbody

2000xp8

1sxyFoxbody

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...

1sxyFoxbody

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...

1sxyFoxbody

2000xp8

1sxyFoxbody

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...

Similar threads

Suspension Sucks...spinnin' Ain't Winnin'

At least it is lumpy...

At least it is lumpy...

At least it is lumpy...

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency