Suspension Upgrades for my '12 GT on order

ragz06 · Feb 28, 2011

Hey guys,
Just getting back into the nice car scene--prev rides included 98 Cobra, 01 Steeda GT, and 03 Z06 Vette.
Got a '12 Gt on order (arrival ???????)

My main goal honestly regarding the suspension is just to the car lowered. I've read and heard all kind of things--"cant do just springs, wheel hop bad, gonna ride bad, etc..."
I've basically concluded that I cant just do lowering springs. I dont mind spending a little $$--want the car to look good and handle well on the street. Not gonna be at the auto-x or drag strip.
I've been looking at the Ford Racing Handling Pak, which is springs, struts/shocks, upgraded strut mounts, jounce stops, and front/rear sway bars. Has anybody done this upgrade? Thoughts?
What about an adjustable Panhard bar, which I've read will be needed to re-center the rear? Lower/Upper Control Arms??
I was thinking about just going with the K-springs (1.5" drop vs the 1'" P-springs in the package), Struts/shocks, strut mount upgrade, jounce stops, UCA/LCA, and adjust. panhard bar. ???

Any advice much appreciated as I wait on the build of the new 5.0; really enjoying the info from this site!!

parchisi · Feb 28, 2011

I would recommend going with a good set of dampers from Koni or Tokico. I have the Tokico D-specs, and even with the Steeda Comp springs, the ride improved. I've heard that the Koni Yellows are even better but may be kinda hard to find right now.

As far as strut mounts, you can find a set of GT500 take-offs, but I don't think that they are very much stronger than stock GT ones. Also if you go with caster camber plates like the ones from Maximum Motorsports or Steeda, you get a lot more adjustability which is good considering it seems like you want a decent drop.

If you want to save some money, I'd hold off on the adjustable panhard bar until after you've lowered it. There's a chance that you may not need one.

Benny · Feb 28, 2011

If you want another good opinion, call Max motorsports. They will give you good advice and not try too sell you anything.

SpartaPerformance · Feb 28, 2011

For LCA, UCA, and panhard bar C.H.E. is the only choice

arcwcb · Feb 28, 2011

Why is C.H.E. so much better than some of the other suspension companies out there?

SpartaPerformance · Mar 1, 2011

C.H.E doesn't use off the shelf Energy suspension bushings like everybody else. C.H.E. uses an injection mold process vs. pour mold like everyone else and they use a Delrin sleeve for permanent lubrication (no grease fittings) which makes a more complete bushing (longer life) and the steel sleeve is allowed to free spin there fore there is no binding when the suspension jounces so it retains factory ride and also helps increase bushing life.

arcwcb · Mar 1, 2011

Benefit of injection molding over pour molding? I don't have my Metallurgy book on me right now, and I can't remember off the top of my head. And wouldn't an off the shelf bushing allow for a cheaper replacement down the road? Not trying to say C.H.E. is bad, I just always question the opinion of anybody who says what they sell is the best, hands down lol I'm in the market for some suspension stuff and I was leaning towards all BMR, but if C.H.E. really IS better, then I'll go that route. Just trying to get some facts lol so don't take this as me bashing your stuff, I'm actually just curious why you say it's better and if I should change where my money goes lol.

rickisyodaddy · Mar 2, 2011

The FRPP would be great. Im doing the same kit, but doing it a step at a time. I have the springs installed and the car rides great with just that. I havent had any problems with wheel hop either. I have LCAs at home, and I will soon order the Sway Bar kit for FRPP.

SpartaPerformance · Mar 2, 2011

Pour molding, think of it as making a cake. The ingredients get mixed together then poured into a mold to cure. What do you see when you cut a slice of cake..... air pockets. It's the same with bushings, here are very tiny air pockets that weaken the structure. Injection method is injecting the mix into the mold under pressure which forces the air out creating a more solid bushing. I understand your scepticism, being I sell them however I do have access to many manufacturers but if you look at my site I only have the best of the best parts available from them. As for replacement costs it's just as inexpensive. The bushings are made by a local facility down the road from C.H.E. without huge overhead costs etc... I don't know how soon you're looking to get these parts but if you're planning on going to Carlisle this year I'll be there and I will have a set of the control arms.

arcwcb · Mar 3, 2011

Pour molding, when done correctly, shouldn't have more air pockets than an injection molded process, I would think bushing durability would come more from the material being used and how it has been processed before the mold. And bushings aren't really a huge concern to me, I've heard good about both BMR and C.H.E. I was more concerned with the actual arm itself, it seems to be a pretty good quality part for the same price as the BMR. Got any specs on the material? I'm looking to order all my suspension stuff here in about 3-4 weeks. And you've got me looking pretty seriously at C.H.E. now lol

And to the OP, sorry for thread jacking lol

SpartaPerformance · Mar 3, 2011

I assume you mean specs on the bushing? The arm itself is high strength steel.

ragz06 · Apr 12, 2011

Ok, my dealer is not being too cooperative as I await delivery later this month--build date is 4-11 yeah!
Accessories manager is saying "Ford hasn't told us that the '11 parts will fit the new '12's, warranty, yadda yadda".
I've been trying to tell him that there is no difference between the 11's and the 12's in regards to suspension, I don't give a **** about the warranty, etc...I mean if the 1% chance that the '11 suspension parts won't work, its not like it will void the warranty on the whole car! It is gonna be my car, my money, I cannot believe that I am willing to spend 35 grand on a new car and am asking the dealership to take my money to perform a few simple upgrades and am getting this much resistance!
Any advices from the fellow stangers??

Sharad · Apr 12, 2011

My advice is skip the dealer and go with UPR Products. Their parts are durable, perform well, and have a lifetime guarantee.

Here's what I would suggest:

Control arms: 2011 Ford Mustang Chrome Moly Street Upper & Lower Control Arm Package - UPR Products

Relocation Kit: 2005-2011 Ford Mustang GT GT500 Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets - UPR Products

Pan Hard Brace: 05-11 Mustang Pan Hard Brace

Adjustable Pan Hard Bar: 2005-2011 Ford Mustang Pro Street Double Adjustable Pan Hard Bar - UPR Products

Eibach Springs: 2005-2011 Ford Mustang GT V6 UPR Pro Series Kit Lowering Springs by Eibach at UPR Products - Lifetime Warranty!

then add Tokico D-specs struts & shocks and enjoy!

JymboSlice · Apr 15, 2011

I'm going to do the steeda ultra lite springs, tokico D-spec shocks/struts, steeda lower rear control arms, Steeda lower control arm relocation brackets, the steeda competition rear upper third link, steeda bumpsteer kit, the frpp mustang jounce bumper kit, possibly caster camber plates if needed, and steeda's watt linkage later on. I'm looking at a 1" front and 1.5" rear drop. I want my car to handle extremely well and hook in a straight line.

granted all of this chit will be expensive so im going to do everything as my budget allows.

Suspension Upgrades for my '12 GT on order

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