Yeah I have new springs, shocks, and subframe connectors. The handling isn't bad I was just looking to add another piece to the puzzle.Have you done springs yet? When I was having roll issues that was the ticket.
I have ford racing 'B' springs with about an inch drop. I no longer have a fox by the way, just the 95.Everyone always slams it. Dare to be different and rake it. Leave the rear stock height and lower the front a bit.
If I'm not building a purpose built racecar and springs, shocks, and sfc's have been done where do I go next?
Mike McNasty
Here is what you do
- MM rear lower control arms Thank you sir
- stock upper rear control arms
- Steeda or H&R sport springs
- Tokico or other good set of shocks
done
Since you're not building a purpose built race car, then I would seriously consider checking the stock rubber bushings on all corners and if they look good , just leave it alone. Reason: These Mustangs were built with a certain amount of flex-compliance designed into the rear fourlink having ride comfort being the goal. When you step up the HP then you need to consider changes to the suspension. Personally I would then consider that the torque boxes could be effected by the added power transfer. I welded my seams and let that rest as I have a Vert and it was off the chart to install plates etc.
Bushings:
The horse has been beaten beyond death concerning poly vs rubber bushings. It really comes down to what you intend to do with the car and how much you want to spend. Personally, on my car I have decided to stay all rubber as I am not carving corners and in the same don't want the risk of picking up squeaks and any more rattles from stiffening the car. Polys have to be lubed occasionally or you'll forsure squeak.
Another thing: Stiffening up the rear and doing nothing to the front will induce weight transfer issues that may or may not be felt but will be effected, as one end of the car will want to stay put while the other end will give. These cars were not of the best design from the onset, but they can be made to handle better but that is best achieved as a total package as opposed to piece meal. All this cost $$$
Thanks man good explanation. So what would compliment rear control arms in the front?
Most important of all.. good subframe connectors. I highly recommend MM full length ones.I have new inner/outer tie rods, bj's, motor mounts, and poly isolators
He said BJ...I have new inner/outer tie rods, bj's, motor mounts, and poly isolators
He said BJ...
Most important of all.. good subframe connectors. I highly recommend MM full length ones.
Put these on my lx. Hands down best sfc's ive bought out of 4 sets on 4 different cars.Most important of all.. good subframe connectors. I highly recommend MM full length ones.
You have to take into account the millions of mustangs that were produced. Now factor in the lack of higher quality suspension parts in years past. This yielded a lot of very broken mustangs. The problem here is more so suspension bind and less so poly urethane bushings. Suspension bind will literally tear your car apart no matter how much support or bracing you have. I'm by no means the expert when it comes to poly urethane suspension parts but you will want to look towards some of the higher end brands here. You truly get what you pay for here and I'm sure @Sharad can chime in with a knowledgeable recommendation.
Rear?For an all around improvement on a street car, I recommend upgrading the upper and lower control arms. Non-adjustable arms with poly bushings work well for most scenarios. Race arms have their place, but they aren't necessary for a street car.
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