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SVE Mongoose clutch review!

  • Thread starter Thread starter 302GTS
  • Start date Start date Dec 29, 2009
3

302GTS

If you need herpes, I'm your man!
Apr 20, 2009
481
2
18
Largo, FL
Dec 29, 2009
#1
  • Dec 29, 2009
  • #1
Hey guys, I've heard a couple questions about that clutch LRS is selling, called the SVE Mongoose. I bit because of the price, and ordered one for a Christmas. Just had it put in today, and have put around 25 miles on it so far. Everythings good, it feels a good amount grabbier than the FMS HD clutch that was in there before. Engagement is very precise, and the spring back feeling is REALLY strong. It almost shoots my foot towards me on the return motion! The car's been running great all day, and I'm extremely happy with it considering the price (around $160 IIRC).

Now, onto the bad. It DOES chatter a very small amount when going from a stop. However, I have been taking it extremely slow with the pedal just to make sure I don't slip it for the break in (my FWA is set so the pedal grabs VERY high up). My mechanic said the chatter should go away, and it was just there because it's a brand new clutch and a resurfaced flywheel.

So far so good with the clutch, and as of now, I'd recommend it to any bolt-on/daily driven Stang. Gears are going in soon, along with a set of DR's. After I hit up the local 1/8th with those in there, I'll report back to let you guys know how the clutch works with the new goodies.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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129
Dec 29, 2009
#2
  • Dec 29, 2009
  • #2
Jeff, disengaging the clutch really slowly is slipping the clutch. You can let it out fairly briskly. It's mainly the WOT runs and high-RPM quick-engagements that you want to omit for a little while.

How close to the top of the pedal is the friction point? If it's pretty close to the top, I'd consider adding more slack into the adjustment. If you have a FWA, put an index mark on it at the top (so you can keep track of your adjustments). Then turn the FWA clockwise (screw it into the firewall). This shortens the effective lenth of the FWA, which puts more slack into your cable.
 
3

302GTS

If you need herpes, I'm your man!
Apr 20, 2009
481
2
18
Largo, FL
Dec 29, 2009
#3
  • Dec 29, 2009
  • #3
HISSIN50 said:
Jeff, disengaging the clutch really slowly is slipping the clutch. You can let it out fairly briskly. It's mainly the WOT runs and high-RPM quick-engagements that you want to omit for a little while.

How close to the top of the pedal is the friction point? If it's pretty close to the top, I'd consider adding more slack into the adjustment. If you have a FWA, put an index mark on it at the top (so you can keep track of your adjustments). Then turn the FWA clockwise (screw it into the firewall). This shortens the effective lenth of the FWA, which puts more slack into your cable.
Click to expand...
When I let it out slowly, I'm using no gas at all, basically letting it get to the point where it's JUST about to stall, then I take my foot out of the clutch and give it some gas, not sitting there riding the clutch.

As for the pedal grabbing, it's literally righttt on top, but I prefer it that way. Shifting gears while driving, my heel is planted to the floor board, and I literally barely tap the pedal and it goes.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Dec 29, 2009
#4
  • Dec 29, 2009
  • #4
302GTS said:
When I let it out slowly, I'm using no gas at all, basically letting it get to the point where it's JUST about to stall, then I take my foot out of the clutch and give it some gas, not sitting there riding the clutch.

As for the pedal grabbing, it's literally righttt on top, but I prefer it that way. Shifting gears while driving, my heel is planted to the floor board, and I literally barely tap the pedal and it goes.
Click to expand...

When the clutch is completely engaged or disengaged is when it's at its best. That transition from disenegaged to engaged (letting the pedal out) is what creates heat, which you want to avoid right now (in excessive amounts). I'd give it a little gas and let the clutch pedal out normally. JMHO.

And for now, I'd still readjust the clutch so you don't take a chance on it slipping while breaking in. If the friction point is right at the top, there's a chance that the clutch is slipping (see what I said in the first paragraph of this post about avoiding heat).

The cable adjustment isn't meant to get the pedal characteristics as one desires. It's meant to get the engagement point optimal. You can do other things to modify the pedal uptake to get it more like you desire.
 
3

302GTS

If you need herpes, I'm your man!
Apr 20, 2009
481
2
18
Largo, FL
Dec 29, 2009
#5
  • Dec 29, 2009
  • #5
HISSIN50 said:
When the clutch is completely engaged or disengaged is when it's at its best. That transition from disenegaged to engaged (letting the pedal out) is what creates heat, which you want to avoid right now (in excessive amounts). I'd give it a little gas and let the clutch pedal out normally. JMHO.

And for now, I'd still readjust the clutch so you don't take a chance on it slipping while breaking in. If the friction point is right at the top, there's a chance that the clutch is slipping (see what I said in the first paragraph of this post about avoiding heat).

The cable adjustment isn't meant to get the pedal characteristics as one desires. It's meant to get the engagement point optimal. You can do other things to modify the pedal uptake to get it more like you desire.
Click to expand...
Understood. I can see how that all would make more sense now, I appreciate it! I've gotta swing by my mechanic's after work tomorrow anyways to pick up some stuff, so I'll have him adjust the cable to lower it a bit.
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
2,564
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0
Burlington, NJ
Dec 30, 2009
#6
  • Dec 30, 2009
  • #6
yea... dont feather out the clutch on a break in... i just drive my car like i normally would... just no track time and wot runs...
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,297
1,641
214
Acworth, GA
Dec 30, 2009
#7
  • Dec 30, 2009
  • #7
Adam95GT said:
yea... dont feather out the clutch on a break in... i just drive my car like i normally would... just no track time and wot runs...
Click to expand...

Pretty much right on on how a clutch should be broken in. They actually don't take that long to break in.

Kurt
 

LRSjmac

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Sep 9, 2008
335
0
17
Hewitt, Tx
Jan 4, 2010
#8
  • Jan 4, 2010
  • #8
Glad you like the clutch! I put one in my 95 a couple of months ago & had a very small amount of chatter when I had the engagement set at the top of the pedal. I now have engagement set on the top side of mid-pedal travel & couldn't be happier. Still powershifts well too!
 
3

302GTS

If you need herpes, I'm your man!
Apr 20, 2009
481
2
18
Largo, FL
Jan 4, 2010
#9
  • Jan 4, 2010
  • #9
LRSjmac said:
Glad you like the clutch! I put one in my 95 a couple of months ago & had a very small amount of chatter when I had the engagement set at the top of the pedal. I now have engagement set on the top side of mid-pedal travel & couldn't be happier. Still powershifts well too!
Click to expand...
I've kept it at the top of the pedal, and the chatter is almost gone TBH when leaving a stop in 1st. Kind of hard to avoid it in reverse though, but it doesn't bug me. The clutch is running great, has close to 200 miles on it so far of 99% city driving. Easy engagement, and it grabs on really hard! I love it, and can't wait to see how it handles at the track on some radials.
 

5.0_GT_kid

20+ Year Stangneter
Apr 18, 2004
1,155
1
39
Largo, Florida
Mar 4, 2010
#10
  • Mar 4, 2010
  • #10
Sorry to bump an older thread, but I was curious how this clutch stacks up to the King Cobra.
 
3

302GTS

If you need herpes, I'm your man!
Apr 20, 2009
481
2
18
Largo, FL
Mar 4, 2010
#11
  • Mar 4, 2010
  • #11
I had the King Cobra in my car before this one and I reallllly prefer the Mongoose. Engagement is much more precise IMO, and the pedal is lighter than the Valeo KC I had in there before (I'm running a MM cable/Steeda quad). Haven't taken it to the track yet, as I have no reason to since I have no other mods since my last trip to the track, but on the street this clutch has been great so far.
 
R

richlaw83

New Member
Aug 25, 2011
1
0
0
Aug 25, 2011
#12
  • Aug 25, 2011
  • #12
SVE Mongoose Clutch

Just wanted to put the word out on this clutch a little further. I installed this clutch with out resurfacing my flywheel. (looked perfect and free of any hotspots). After clutch install, Petal release was very high. (Maybe something I did while install with the cable). After pulling back on petal for quadrant to self adjust petal was fine. Clutch does seem to have a bit of chatter while break in which seems to be going away more all the time. clutch as a very similar petal to stock Valeo clutch. lots of grab. smooth engagement. I am very satisfied with it. handles fast shifts and power shifts very very well and seems to have a lot heavier spring back. Give it a shot, great clutch for the money.
 
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