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  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Sway bar decisions.....help me out.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dark Knight GT
  • Start date Start date Jul 7, 2006

Dark Knight GT

I can't get it up......ok that didn't sound right.
May 26, 2003
3,653
2
56
Ozark, Missouri
Jul 7, 2006
#1
  • Jul 7, 2006
  • #1
Alright. Here is the situation. I have a 2001 Mustang GT, and here are my following suspension mods, which I have now:

UPR Double Adjustable chromoly uppers w/o bushings
Maximum Motorsport solid lower control arms
HPM welded in sub-frame connectors

I'm going to be converting to MM coil overs with Koni Yellow shocks & struts, and probably a MM Panhard bar for the rear.

Now, with all of these suspension modifications, I'm guessing the stock sway bars aren't going to give me the "desired" steering response that I want.

I know MM makes the best rear sway bar, but it's really expensive AND I can't run it right now, as I would have to modify my rear exhuast, and I don't feel like doing that while I live in Va. That, and I don't think I need that kind of adjustablity, as this is going to be mostly a street car.

I had looked at the Steeda front, and rear sway bars. They seemed nice for the price, and I also noticed the Bullit sway bars, though I don't know if there is really any difference between them, and the stock bars I have now.

Any input, or suggestions you guys have is appreciated. Thanks.
 
T

Torinalth

Founding Member
Jul 16, 2002
952
0
16
Clayton NC
Jul 7, 2006
#2
  • Jul 7, 2006
  • #2
i will actualy be writing up a FAQ on swaybars here before too long, but here is my thoughts.

with your current setup, and future modifications apparent, i'd ignore the swaybars for now. the reason being is that depending on your end goals the swaybar will either encite oversteer or understeer dependant on your spring/wheel rate (depending if you have coilovers at the time) and the full configuration of your other pieces.

i had bilsteins and HR race springs and then added steeda front and rear swaybars, and the feeling was awesome, flat cornering, and very responcive. however now that i have the LCAs and panhard rod, i am having to fight understeer a good amount. i need either a stiffer rear swaybar, lose the front swaybar or increase the rear spring rate.

HOWEVER... though i am now fighting understeer, once i get my torque arm i will be able to fix the understeer with a higher rear spring rate. this in its self will be bad once i get my front k member and A arms as i will be back in the same situation. Maximum motorsports recomends you keep the stock front and rear swaybars stock until you are completely finished with your suspension, then get swaybars to match your needs.

the issue with this is nobody makes an adjustable front swaybar, and only 2 companies make stronger front swaybars for the GT. this leaves us with few options, but the reason for this is that most people would choose to increase the front spring rate rather then adding a bigger swaybar to achieve a flatter cornering ability. bottom line is many people recommend the stock front and an adjstable rear to fine tune the understeer/oversteer balance of the suspension from the rear (this also ties into how thick of a swaybar you need to begin with, based on your suspension mods).

if you are done at your current point then buy my steeda front and rear swaybars, look great, work great, and only 2k miles on them. however if you are planning on going further like i have then you will start to fight problems with the mustang as you keep modding.

Torinalth
 
T

Torinalth

Founding Member
Jul 16, 2002
952
0
16
Clayton NC
Jul 7, 2006
#3
  • Jul 7, 2006
  • #3
oh, the bullitt swaybars are slightly stronger then the stock GT, not worth it.

T
 
S

san~man

O-G
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
8,546
3
78
A little grass shack on a big lava rock
Jul 7, 2006
#4
  • Jul 7, 2006
  • #4
Torinalth said:
i will actualy be writing up a FAQ on swaybars here before too long, but here is my thoughts.

with your current setup, and future modifications apparent, i'd ignore the swaybars for now. the reason being is that depending on your end goals the swaybar will either encite oversteer or understeer dependant on your spring/wheel rate (depending if you have coilovers at the time) and the full configuration of your other pieces.

i had bilsteins and HR race springs and then added steeda front and rear swaybars, and the feeling was awesome, flat cornering, and very responcive. however now that i have the LCAs and panhard rod, i am having to fight understeer a good amount. i need either a stiffer rear swaybar, lose the front swaybar or increase the rear spring rate.

HOWEVER... though i am now fighting understeer, once i get my torque arm i will be able to fix the understeer with a higher rear spring rate. this in its self will be bad once i get my front k member and A arms as i will be back in the same situation. Maximum motorsports recomends you keep the stock front and rear swaybars stock until you are completely finished with your suspension, then get swaybars to match your needs.

the issue with this is nobody makes an adjustable front swaybar, and only 2 companies make stronger front swaybars for the GT. this leaves us with few options, but the reason for this is that most people would choose to increase the front spring rate rather then adding a bigger swaybar to achieve a flatter cornering ability. bottom line is many people recommend the stock front and an adjstable rear to fine tune the understeer/oversteer balance of the suspension from the rear (this also ties into how thick of a swaybar you need to begin with, based on your suspension mods).

if you are done at your current point then buy my steeda front and rear swaybars, look great, work great, and only 2k miles on them. however if you are planning on going further like i have then you will start to fight problems with the mustang as you keep modding.

Torinalth
Click to expand...

Did you ever put back your stock swaybars?
 
T

Torinalth

Founding Member
Jul 16, 2002
952
0
16
Clayton NC
Jul 7, 2006
#5
  • Jul 7, 2006
  • #5
this weekend i will. fixed my misfire issue (which was more pressing) and will be retrieving my stock swaybars from my parents place (storage durring my move) and doing the front back to stock by its self, driving it over the weekend, then make changes from there. i dont think the rear will be comming of till i get my TA and coilovers on... but i might be changing my mind once the front is stock.

also read the directions for the MM ARS and after looking it over i will end up with a jungle of pipe between the PHB, TA, and ARS....

Torinalth
 

Dark Knight GT

I can't get it up......ok that didn't sound right.
May 26, 2003
3,653
2
56
Ozark, Missouri
Jul 7, 2006
#6
  • Jul 7, 2006
  • #6
Torinalth, thanks for the reply, as I appreciate it.

In addition to what is listed above, I will be converting to a UPR front K-member with matching A-arms. I went with the UPR setup as I got a very good deal on the pricing, and I wanted something strong and light, and since it's made of chromoly, I figured it would hold up to street duty.

As for my coil overs, I'm going to probably go with a really good spring rate for the street. Probably no less than 300 on the front, and probably no less than 200-225 on the rear. Truth be told, I'll probably go even stiffer than that. I know with coil overs there is more vibration in the car, but I also like the idea of better handling. I love to wrap turns, and I like having a responsive car in terms of steering.

I guess I should do all of my other stuff, and then if I need to, get the sway bars to help with my steering ?
 
T

Torinalth

Founding Member
Jul 16, 2002
952
0
16
Clayton NC
Jul 7, 2006
#7
  • Jul 7, 2006
  • #7
leave the swaybars alone, get a 3 link rear, and then an adjustable swaybar (i personally would do MM) and be done.

Torinalth
 

Dark Knight GT

I can't get it up......ok that didn't sound right.
May 26, 2003
3,653
2
56
Ozark, Missouri
Jul 8, 2006
#8
  • Jul 8, 2006
  • #8
Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it.
 
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