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t-5 conversion, cause lord knows we need another thread on this

  • Thread starter Thread starter HDTony
  • Start date Start date Nov 29, 2010
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HDTony

Member
Oct 15, 2010
134
2
19
Plainfield IL
Nov 29, 2010
#1
  • Nov 29, 2010
  • #1
Hey Gents, I had found a good thread in here on this subject with a link to a kit for doing the conversion with a new pedal, cable conversion parts etc. but I cant find it now, and the search engine on here doesn't seem to like the word "t5" anyone know where this info is hiding?
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
10
79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Nov 29, 2010
#2
  • Nov 29, 2010
  • #2
Why on Earth would you want to complicate the conversion by using a cable? The T5 can be installed using the stock setup, entirely.
 

Max Power

Active Member
Jul 31, 2003
1,774
1
36
St Paul
Nov 29, 2010
#3
  • Nov 29, 2010
  • #3
2+2GT said:
Why on Earth would you want to complicate the conversion by using a cable? The T5 can be installed using the stock setup, entirely.
Click to expand...


I am guessing since he lists a new pedal that he is converting from an automatic?
 

HDTony

Member
Oct 15, 2010
134
2
19
Plainfield IL
Nov 30, 2010
#4
  • Nov 30, 2010
  • #4
Really??? I had a local guy tell me i needed to do a cable conversion? I have a 3 speed in there right now. If i can just use my stock setup that would be great!
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
10
79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Nov 30, 2010
#5
  • Nov 30, 2010
  • #5
HDTony said:
Really??? I had a local guy tell me i needed to do a cable conversion? I have a 3 speed in there right now. If i can just use my stock setup that would be great!
Click to expand...

You're kidding. Find another mechanic. I have seen three-speed cars converted to T5 5-speed in two hours. You don't even have to remove any of the linkage or the bellhousing to do the job.

3-speed out
T5 adapter plate attach to bell
T5 in

You'll need a T5, T5 adapter plate, T5 crossmember, T5 shift lever & knob. Your speedo cable gear will need to be changed at some point for accuracy.

The driveshaft becomes a tight fit, but usually does not require shortening.

You can find it all here:
http://www.mustangbarn.com/catalog.pdf
 

tx65coupe

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
1,551
1
37
Nov 30, 2010
#6
  • Nov 30, 2010
  • #6
I am running a clutch cable in mine, but I have a late model 302. If your running one that has provisions for the Z bar, then I would probably just stick with it.
 

PoppyMod

Member
Jun 27, 2010
617
6
19
Severna Park, MD
Nov 30, 2010
#7
  • Nov 30, 2010
  • #7
Hi,
I've done the conversion and agree, it's an easy deal. Go with the "Z" bar.
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
10
79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Nov 30, 2010
#8
  • Nov 30, 2010
  • #8
tx65coupe said:
I am running a clutch cable in mine, but I have a late model 302. If your running one that has provisions for the Z bar, then I would probably just stick with it.
Click to expand...

There is a bolt-on bracket that makes the 5.0 compatible with the stock clutch linkage.
 

tx65coupe

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
1,551
1
37
Dec 1, 2010
#9
  • Dec 1, 2010
  • #9
2+2GT said:
There is a bolt-on bracket that makes the 5.0 compatible with the stock clutch linkage.
Click to expand...

A couple years ago when I was installing the new drivetrain, I looked for something like that, and couldn't find anything.
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
10
79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Dec 1, 2010
#10
  • Dec 1, 2010
  • #10
I'm pretty sure it's been around at least that long, but it's not a well-known part.

 

HDTony

Member
Oct 15, 2010
134
2
19
Plainfield IL
Dec 1, 2010
#11
  • Dec 1, 2010
  • #11
You guys are awesome! Thanks for clearing that up for me
 

coolblue65

Founding Member
Jul 26, 1999
1,224
2
39
Algonquin, IL
Dec 1, 2010
#12
  • Dec 1, 2010
  • #12
If you don't want to use the adapter plate you can get a shortened input shaft for about the same price and then its a direct bolt-in. (thats what I did)
 

tx65coupe

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
1,551
1
37
Dec 2, 2010
#13
  • Dec 2, 2010
  • #13
2+2GT said:
I'm pretty sure it's been around at least that long, but it's not a well-known part.

QUOTE]

Its good to know you can get that.
Click to expand...
 

HDTony

Member
Oct 15, 2010
134
2
19
Plainfield IL
Dec 2, 2010
#14
  • Dec 2, 2010
  • #14
Hey cool blue, now im curious, will the input length be an issue bolting up to a 289 block as yhays what the t5 will be going behind. Is there a length measurement from the front of the bellhousing i should be aware of?
 

coolblue65

Founding Member
Jul 26, 1999
1,224
2
39
Algonquin, IL
Dec 2, 2010
#15
  • Dec 2, 2010
  • #15
It depends, you have 3 choices:

1. Late model bell housing & stock T5
2. Early Bell housing, spacer plate, stock T5
3. Early bell housing, T5 with shortened input shaft

So if you are using a late model bell your T5 will bolt right in, if not you have option 2 or 3.
 

HDTony

Member
Oct 15, 2010
134
2
19
Plainfield IL
Dec 2, 2010
#16
  • Dec 2, 2010
  • #16
coolblue65 said:
It depends, you have 3 choices:

1. Late model bell housing & stock T5
2. Early Bell housing, spacer plate, stock T5
3. Early bell housing, T5 with shortened input shaft

So if you are using a late model bell your T5 will bolt right in, if not you have option 2 or 3.
Click to expand...

Sweet, option 1 is what i have! Thanks!
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
10
79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Dec 3, 2010
#17
  • Dec 3, 2010
  • #17
coolblue65 said:
3. Early bell housing, T5 with shortened input shaft
Click to expand...

Of course, this will require you to hack a hole in your floor, since it will move the whole transmission, including the shifter, forward.
 
P

Pony66

New Member
Jul 23, 2010
124
0
0
Dec 3, 2010
#18
  • Dec 3, 2010
  • #18
coolblue65 said:
It depends, you have 3 choices:

1. Late model bell housing & stock T5
2. Early Bell housing, spacer plate, stock T5
3. Early bell housing, T5 with shortened input shaft

So if you are using a late model bell your T5 will bolt right in, if not you have option 2 or 3.
Click to expand...

IMHO, option 2 is the easiest. Like posted above, you can do it in a couple hours. I prefer the original Z-bar because the cable kits route all over the engine compartment.

1. You will need a different clutch as its hydraulic, and the fulcrum is backwards(I think)
2. May need the drive shaft shortened, mine cost $75.
3. Never heard of anyone doing that.
 

coolblue65

Founding Member
Jul 26, 1999
1,224
2
39
Algonquin, IL
Dec 3, 2010
#19
  • Dec 3, 2010
  • #19
2+2GT said:
Of course, this will require you to hack a hole in your floor, since it will move the whole transmission, including the shifter, forward.
Click to expand...

that is completely INCORRECT. I have a Tremec 3550 (which has a bigger case then a T5), it was a direct bolt in to replace my 3-speed manual. I didn't have to cut anything on my car to make it fit, and that includes the stock driveshaft since the 3-speed and 3550 are the same length.
 

HDTony

Member
Oct 15, 2010
134
2
19
Plainfield IL
Dec 3, 2010
#20
  • Dec 3, 2010
  • #20
this gets better and better. I had assumed there was now way the original shifter hole would line up. to be honest it was the least of my worries. I like to weld. but if it does fit, even better saves me a bunch of work. I do need to find a nice shifter though and leather boot, right now the way my car came the factory shifter is just sticking through the factory hole. whatever boot was there disintegrated many years ago and the previous owner didn't bother to replace it.

Let me ask you guys this. is there a shifter combination that is the preferred setup for t-5's in these old cars?
 
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