T-5 output shaft bearing......

Vinnietbird

Member
Jun 2, 2005
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What is the process for swapping the output shaft bearing on a T-5 ? Can a person do it at home or is it more of a shop job?

My car has a vibration at around 60 mph and up.I've replaced the u-joints,installed my spare driveshaft with new u-joints,replaced the differential,harmonic balancer (not all in the name of finding the vibration,but upgrading,although the vibration has remained).
 
You mean the tailhousing bushing?

It is easiest to be done on bench withthe tailhousing removed. Unsure if it can even be done while still attached to the trans. The output shaft kinda gets in the way of removing it
 
i've heard of a tool that allows removal and install while the tail is on, but I have yet to find it, and if I did, It probably costs.

As well, I have a HELL of a time installing them on the bench..they usually wind up splitting and breaking/not wanting to go in right.

I made my own tool from an old d/s yoke, and muffler clamped an old bearing onto it, then slid the yoke into the tail and pound on the yoke...it'll drive it straight in.

b4 you do all that, stick a yoke in the tail and try moving it. it should have very very slight play up/down/left/right. a tad is normal, a lot is not
 
There is a puller and installer tool. Just about all tranny shops have them they just cost $$. Alot of shops will do it for free if you bring the tranny in since it's no lie a 2min job with the tool. I don't know how much they would charge if you brought in the car but really all they need to do is pull the shaft and seal, do the bushing then reverse. other than that most people pull the tail and do it, takes a little longer but less likely to do damage or have a problem with like you could with a home made tool and it in the car. with all the stuff you have done and still getting a vibration over 60 your are probally on the right track.
 
he makes a good point....

I'd call some tranny shops..I'd be it would cost you less than $100 to have a shop drop the driveshaft, yank out the bushing, and install a new one. I've heard of others doing this b4. You have to weigh your time of dropping the entire trans, then disassembling half of it just to get the bushing out vs coughing up this months beer money and just paying someone to do it.
 
I'm going to run to the tranny shop Monday morning.It's strange,when I had the 8.8 with 3.55's in the car,I started getting a vibration at 70 mph.Now,with the replacement 8.8 with 3.73's,it's actually (the vibration) closer to 55 mph and up.It doesn't matter what gear,or neutral that the car is in once the 55 mph speed is achieved.
 
Stock shaft.....for now.I'm either going to have the aluminum Crown Vic shaft shortened and balanced,or,check the price to make a new one for the Sport.I'm really starting to think it's the shaft,and not the tranny.
 
Stock shaft.....for now.I'm either going to have the aluminum Crown Vic shaft shortened and balanced,or,check the price to make a new one for the Sport.I'm really starting to think it's the shaft,and not the tranny.

Silly question I know. But are the Drive Shaft bolts tightened down all the way? IF not they can make vibrations by not being tight. Worth a shot if you are willing to try. This happened to me, thought the gears where going bad so I had them replace(was going to do it within the month anyway).
 
I tightened the crap out of the D.S. bolts.Hopefully tomorrow,I'll start the wheels turning for the aluminum shaft for the Sport.I'm ready to get the car out and run it,but until the vibration is fixed...............
 
I'm leaning towards DS myself. If you grab onto the yoke coming out of the tailshaft & push on it you will have a very small amount of movement up/down & side to side on the output shaft. If the bushing was wiped the shaft would move around alot, enough to make you say to yourself that isn't right. most of time the tranny will leak out the tail also.

when you put the new aluminum DS on if you still get a slight vibration try clocking the driveshaft then take it for a ride, keep doing this until the vibration goes away or is at it lowest point. sometimes this works.
 
I was just gonna say, crawl under the car, grab the yoke and see if there is any movement at all.

I love my AL driveshaft. Car is vibration free up to speeds i'll keep to myself. :)
 
No play in the drive shaft. That's a good thing.I re-installed the other 8.8 with 3.55's yesterday after work.Drove it today,and the vibration doesn't start until 65-70.I say the driveshaft needs to be melted down and an anchor made from it.I'm going to get an aluminum driveshaft.I'm calling some places in the morning.Although my car is a Fox car,and everything is mostly Stang parts,the driveshaft is about 6 inches longer,so,it has to be custom made if the Crown Vic shaft is too big.Apparently,when they installed my mufflers,they used offset in and out mufflers,and the rear of the mufflers kind of point inward,leaving minimal space between them for the driveshaft.I never really put any thought into that before.Oh well,I'll go out tomorrow and measure to make sure.If I can't fit the Crown Vic shaft,then I'll have to have one built for the car. The more I think about it,and think of each part of that car and the vibration,it seems more and more that the driveshaft is the problem.
 
Alright....I talked to a drive line specialist in Oklahoma City (2 hours north of me),and he'll shorten and balance my aluminum driveshaft (Crown Vic cop car shaft),and install the adapter u-joints from my driveshaft for $108.00. I found I can ship it for a little over $12.00 to them......cheaper than gas. So,I'm getting ready to go ship it now.Updates when the shaft gets back to me.