hey folks i just picked up my 88 gt and im getting ready to start nailing down some minor issues it has..my last problems to fix are the t-5 trans..the shifter has a real problem getting in gear. it has a short throw shifter ( unsure the brand ) but it really needs to be played with to get into just about every gear ( 2 and reverse are the hardest of the gears )..and finally the clutch is very stiff it travels about 4-7 inch but is very firm is there a way to adjust this..and could this very well be the problem with the shifting?..thanks in advance for the help!!
t-5 questions and problems
- Thread starter dadslx
- Start date
Goober89
New Member
sounds like you got a worn out clutch and the synchros in the trans are trashed. time for a new clutch and trans my friend.
The odds are that the clutch is not properly adjusted, it is too loose.
The stock clutch adjuster was a ratchet gismo that self adjusted. The trick to get them to adjust tighter was to pull up on the pedal. You would hear a clicking sound as the ratchet mechanism self adjusted.
If it has an aftermarket cable and quadrant, you will need to look at the firewall for an adjuster.
The following is a typical firewall cable adjuster:
If there is no firewall adjuster, you may have an adjustable cable. With the car on jackstands, locate the clutch cable cover. It is a black stamped steel cover on the drivers' side of the clutch housing. It is held in place by a clip and a single 5/16 hex head screw. Remove the cover and look for a threaded rod on the end of the clutch cable.
You adjust the clutch by tightening or loosening the nuts on the threaded adjuster end.
If you didn't find either one, then you have a stock cable and quadrant that is just worn out.
See http://www.steeda.com/products/fox_body_parts_drivetrain.php for cable and quadrant parts or www.maximummotorsports.com
here's MM's kit with everything you need.
Part #: MMCP-51
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/images/packgd_sys/MMCP_51.jpg
I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. If I shift only when the pedal hits the floor, there are several milliseconds that the clutch disk is not being driven by the engine or transmission. In theory, this lets the disk slow down some and makes less work for the synchronizers – keep in mind that this is a theory, but it seems reasonable. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable.
The stock clutch adjuster was a ratchet gismo that self adjusted. The trick to get them to adjust tighter was to pull up on the pedal. You would hear a clicking sound as the ratchet mechanism self adjusted.
If it has an aftermarket cable and quadrant, you will need to look at the firewall for an adjuster.
The following is a typical firewall cable adjuster:
If there is no firewall adjuster, you may have an adjustable cable. With the car on jackstands, locate the clutch cable cover. It is a black stamped steel cover on the drivers' side of the clutch housing. It is held in place by a clip and a single 5/16 hex head screw. Remove the cover and look for a threaded rod on the end of the clutch cable.
You adjust the clutch by tightening or loosening the nuts on the threaded adjuster end.
If you didn't find either one, then you have a stock cable and quadrant that is just worn out.
See http://www.steeda.com/products/fox_body_parts_drivetrain.php for cable and quadrant parts or www.maximummotorsports.com
here's MM's kit with everything you need.
Part #: MMCP-51
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/images/packgd_sys/MMCP_51.jpg
I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. If I shift only when the pedal hits the floor, there are several milliseconds that the clutch disk is not being driven by the engine or transmission. In theory, this lets the disk slow down some and makes less work for the synchronizers – keep in mind that this is a theory, but it seems reasonable. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable.
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