T-5 Swap: What else do I need.

monk302

monk302

Founding Member
Apr 18, 2001
742
2
16
New Jersey
#1
So I have gathered a few parts for my T-5 swap and I was wondering what else I need.

What I have:

1) Transmission: T-5 with 88K miles from an 89 Mustang (verified tag)

2) Bellhousing: Attached to the transmission above.

3) Pedals: Purchased these last year.

4) Clutch & Pressure Plate: These came with the transmission above and I was told they have 20K miles on the each.

5) Bolts: Came with the transmission above. I was told they were for the bellhousing.

6) Tranmission Mount: This rubber mount is brand new and came with the trans. Can I use this with the new crossmember that I am getting?

7) Flywheel: Came with the transmission above.

8) Short throw shifter: Came with the transmission above.

9) Mini Starter - Already installed.

What I think I need. Please correct me if I am wrong.

1) Crossmember: I plan on purchasing this from Ron Morris Performance for $130 since I have heard that this brand has the best exhaust performance.

2) Cable Clutch: I am still debating who to get this from, either Ron Morris or Mustang Steve.

3) Driveline Slip Yoke, 28-Spline: Planning on purchasing this from Mustangs Plus.

4) Driveshaft Shortening: I have heard some people need this and some don't. I will wait and see what happens.

Concerns that I have:

This is my first work on a transmission besides changing the filter on my C4. For the time being I was planning on just using the clutch and pressure plate even though they have 20k miles. I only put a few thousand miles on the car each summer so if I have to replace the clutch in a year or two I won't mind. My biggest concern is in the area of the flywheel. How can I figure out what imbalance my engine needs, either 28 or 50 oz? If it turns out I can use the one I have now, should I have it resurfaced? How about the clutch fork which is currently on my trans? Should I spring for a new one? Another thing that I remember hearing is something about a part that is along with the transmission that was originally aluminum which wears quickly that should be replaced by a steel unit. Is this anything I should worry about. Lastly, do I need anything like an adapter plate to make my tranmission mate to my engine? I am almost positive that I would only need one if I was using an early bellhousing but I wanted to check.

Thanks in advance for the advice everyone,

Mike
 
#2
Here are some pictures of the parts.
 

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#4
If your 302 is from 1981 or earlier, then you need to use a 28 oz imbalance factor. If your transmission is from an 89 then the flywheel uses a 50 oz imbalance and will need to be rebalanced or replaced.

Many people recommend replacing the aluminum front input shaft retainer with a steel one, i think this is the part you are talking about.

Also, I believe you can use the slip yoke from your C4.

If you haven't yet, check out Modern Driveline . Even if you don't buy anything from them, you can get a lot of good info about the swap.
 
#6
nds03 said:
you proboly want to get a longer shifter. its a long reach if its too short. i have the one that looks stock, but bolts to the t-5
Click to expand...

I completely agree with you on that. I have actually checking out peoples interior to see what they have used. I do not like the look of the short throw in a classic interior. Do you have a picture of yours?
 
#7
mxmattd said:
If your 302 is from 1981 or earlier, then you need to use a 28 oz imbalance factor. If your transmission is from an 89 then the flywheel uses a 50 oz imbalance and will need to be rebalanced or replaced.

Many people recommend replacing the aluminum front input shaft retainer with a steel one, i think this is the part you are talking about.

Also, I believe you can use the slip yoke from your C4.

If you haven't yet, check out Modern Driveline . Even if you don't buy anything from them, you can get a lot of good info about the swap.
Click to expand...

I am not sure with accuracy what year engine mine is. I need to determine this. What is the best way to check what year my engine is.

The input shaft retainer is what I was talking about. I could not remember what it was called. Thanks.
 
#10
monk302 said:
I am not sure with accuracy what year engine mine is. I need to determine this. What is the best way to check what year my engine is.
Click to expand...
The only conclusive way is to check the casting number located on the oil pan rail in the passenger rear part of the block. Unless you already have a mini starter on there you'll have to remove yours, it's only two bolts though.
 
#11
personally i would also replace the pressure plate and clutch. the pressure plate looks heat scored and the clutch definitely is showing scoring also. it will never be easier to do than now since it's all apart.
 
#12
i dont have a picture but it looks just like a mustang that came sock with a manual transmission. its long, elegant and kind of bends to the left so its easier to reach. they even sell knobs for it that are 5- speed
 
#13
Edbert said:
The only conclusive way is to check the casting number located on the oil pan rail in the passenger rear part of the block. Unless you already have a mini starter on there you'll have to remove yours, it's only two bolts though.
Click to expand...

Actually I replaced my starter with a mini starter last summer. So you think I will be able to see the casting number without taking the starter off? You are saying that the casting number is on the passenger side of the engine correct? How can I decode the casting number to determine the year? Thanks.

nds03 said:
i dont have a picture but it looks just like a mustang that came sock with a manual transmission. its long, elegant and kind of bends to the left so its easier to reach. they even sell knobs for it that are 5- speed.
Click to expand...

I know exactly what you are talking about. I would like to keep mine stock looking just like the ones they came with however, for a stock looking unit to work on the T-5 Mustangs Plus is selling them for $140. Seems a bit steep.

PushRod Power said:
personally i would also replace the pressure plate and clutch. the pressure plate looks heat scored and the clutch definitely is showing scoring also. it will never be easier to do than now since it's all apart.
Click to expand...

How much would a decent stock replacement pressure plate and clutch go you think? I don't have an engine that is modified or pumping out enormous power.
 
#15
How much would a decent stock replacement pressure plate and clutch go you think? I don't have an engine that is modified or pumping out enormous power.[/QUOTE]

it's not that your engine is putting out a lot of power but i'd hate to see you put in worn, used parts that are the most important part of this swap. you're probably looking at @ $200 for some quality parts. imo it will be money well spent.
 
#17
pushrod power said:
it's not that your engine is putting out a lot of power but i'd hate to see you put in worn, used parts that are the most important part of this swap. you're probably looking at @ $200 for some quality parts. imo it will be money well spent.
Click to expand...

Does anyone have a recommendation of what type to get and from where? Jegs, Summit, etc?
 
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