T-stat, is it bad or is it normal??

95Vert

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Aug 19, 2004

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#1

• Aug 26, 2004

• #1

This might be a dumb question but probably not. I've been taught that the only dumb question is the one you don't ask Ok now that that's out of my system. I just bought the 180 degree tstat (2 days ago) and when i first start my car, it runs fine, then after several minutes it starts heating up all the way passed the "L" on the gauge, then, i guess the tstat opens and it goes all the way to the "R" and stays there. No problems after that, now is this normal or should i return it and get another one?

 

Joes95GT

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Jan 23, 2003

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Aug 26, 2004

#2

• Aug 26, 2004

• #2

Some have good luck with their temperature gauges and some don't. You are unlucky in that you have an extremely inaccurate gauge. What you are describing seems to be normal.

Did you burp the coolant system? If so, you are all set.

Joe

 

95Vert

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#3

• Aug 26, 2004

• #3

nope i did not burp my baby, how would i go about doin that. do just leave it on for a while until no more air bubbles come out??

 

stang_gt_1994

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Mar 21, 2002

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Powder Springs, GA (30 min. from Atlanta)

Aug 26, 2004

#4

• Aug 26, 2004

• #4

Some way to do so is to loosen the ECT and let the air out before the T stat, works pretty good. Also why did you buy a 180 t stat?

 

95Vert

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#5

• Aug 26, 2004

• #5

i have pulleys and wanted to advance my timing to avoid any overheating problems with the 192 stat. isn't the ect on the induction sleeve??

 

95Vert

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#6

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my bad, that's the act, where's the ect at

 

stang_gt_1994

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#7

• Aug 26, 2004

• #7

Well I have the 192 and im fine. Its not good to run cooler. The ECT = ENGINE COOLANT TEMP SENSOR!!!!! It is located in the lower intake manifold, to the right side.

 

S

stunner6910

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#8

• Aug 26, 2004

• #8

i have the stock one with no problems after pulley install

 

95Vert

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#9

• Aug 26, 2004

• #9

i bought the 180 degree t stat cause my needle went up to the "M" after i did the pulleys, i just didn't want it to get any hotter if i advanced my timing

 

stang_gt_1994

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#10

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• #10

So you did a quick fix right? Instead of looking at the rest ff the cooling system? Im f ing with you but what I am trying to get across is that going to a 180 t stat is not the best solution. You want to run as hot as possible but not burn parts.

 

95Vert

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Aug 27, 2004

#11

• Aug 27, 2004

• #11

i know a new rad would be the best solution but no money right now. probably later. so your saying that when i do get a new, go back to the 192 stat??

 

T_5.0_N'works

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Sep 30, 2003

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Aug 27, 2004

#12

• Aug 27, 2004

• #12

I have a 180 deg stat. I don't have underdrive pullies.

On the Normal scale N being hoter and L being colder. It usually stays on L and when I run it hard it usually stays between L and A, sometimes stays at A, never past it.

WHEN I had my STOCK t stat in it would be around A and M area.

I have a stock radiator in that leaks and stock fan(soon to be changed out to aluminum and electric fan), this is in South Texas weather, today will get up to 98 degrees, 107'ish on the heat index. I have A/C and I use it also.

 

donjohn

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Feb 7, 2004

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#13

• Aug 27, 2004

• #13

i'm confused, wouldn't it be better to run cooler (i dunno if a 12* diff would matter anyhow, some people even run a 160* a 32* difference). cooler air means more dense air coming in the motor meaning more air meaning bigger more complete combustion.

You're saying the opposite of everything that this site has even really taught or gone by? not razzing, just want to more fully understand

 

S

SN95Oh

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Aug 27, 2004

#14

• Aug 27, 2004

• #14

T_5.0_N'works said:

I have a 180 deg stat. I don't have underdrive pullies.

On the Normal scale N being hoter and L being colder. It usually stays on L and when I run it hard it usually stays between L and A, sometimes stays at A, never past it.

WHEN I had my STOCK t stat in it would be around A and M area.

I have a stock radiator in that leaks and stock fan(soon to be changed out to aluminum and electric fan), this is in South Texas weather, today will get up to 98 degrees, 107'ish on the heat index. I have A/C and I use it also.

Click to expand...

You mean
On the Normal scale N being colder and L being hoter.

 

Joes95GT

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Jan 23, 2003

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#15

• Aug 27, 2004

• #15

donjohn said:

i'm confused, wouldn't it be better to run cooler (i dunno if a 12* diff would matter anyhow, some people even run a 160* a 32* difference). cooler air means more dense air coming in the motor meaning more air meaning bigger more complete combustion.

You're saying the opposite of everything that this site has even really taught or gone by? not razzing, just want to more fully understand

Click to expand...

Well, as always, it depends...

Remember, we aren't talking about ACT (air charge temperature), we are referring to ECT (engine coolant temperature). Cool air makes horsepower. A hotter coolant temperature allows for better economy. Of course, this is with in reason, and you don't want to see coolant temperatures above ~220*.

And yes, my friend is confused on how the temperature gauge works.

Joe