T5 Conversion Issue

meweehaa · Aug 15, 2016

I have a 69 coupe with a 80's 302, '93 T5 and a hydraulic clutch that was bought through John's Mustangs and Classics in San Diego years ago. I am using a bell housing from the same era as the T5. I have an issue where the rod from the slave cylinder hits the bell housing. I still have room for clutch pedal travel but the rod prevents that and in turn doesn't let me get enough travel on the clutch to shift without grinding the gears. I would appreciate it if anyone would be able to help me figure this out.

tos · Aug 16, 2016

Can you post pics of your setup?

meweehaa · Aug 16, 2016

I will do my best to get that done tonight. Thank you for asking.

meweehaa · Aug 16, 2016

Hopefully these will help.

tos · Aug 17, 2016

Im assuming the last picture is where the problem is? Where the rod settles into the fork?
Three things come to mind.
First are you sure you have the correct throw out bearing and its installed correctly?
Second possibly the stud that the other end of the fork pivots on is the wrong one (too short).
Last what era is the clutch fork? Maybe the wrong one
Any one of these could cause too much gap between your throw out bearing and pressure plate fingers which would cause you to run out of travel before your disengage the clutch completely.
Maybe pull your slave cyl off and see how much travel you have on the fork before the throw out bearing hits the pressure plate.

meweehaa · Aug 17, 2016

I'll try that tonight as well. What is the correct distance of travel I should have on the fork from most aft position where it strikes the bell up to it hitting the pressure plate? Once I determine my distance is incorrect how do I determine which piece or pieces are the incorrect part? And thank you for the assistance.

tos · Aug 17, 2016

If the stud and fork came with the bell housing I would guess they are correct because you want them to match the era bell housing you are using and the same for the throw-out bearing.
Don't know that there is a "correct" distance of travel but if that last pic is with the clutch resting with nobody pushing on the clutch pedal then it looks like it is too far forward. Resting it should be closer to the rear than to the front. I would say if you unbolt the slave cyl and move the fork you should get 1/2 to 1 inch free travel? Generally you would get about a 1/2 inch or so pedal travel inside the car before you feel the pressure.

meweehaa · Aug 17, 2016

I bought the bell second hand (93 era) and the tranny new. I believe I bought the fork and stud for the bell but it is possible I ended up with an incorrect part. The throwout bearing falls into the same category. That pic was of the pedal at rest, yes.

tos · Aug 17, 2016

Its possible that your stud is adjustable? There is probably a nut on it to adjust and lock in place. Im not completely familiar with that setup. Ill have to do some research.

tos · Aug 17, 2016

Left and center are non adjustable type

Adjustable type

meweehaa · Aug 17, 2016

I was fooling with it tonight and took out some of the preload to where I had some play in the clutch pedal and cut 3/8" off the end of the slave cylinder rod. Then bled the clutch again. That 3/8" seems to have made quite the difference in addition to bleeding it. I drove it to test it and I have way lot travel in the clutch and no grinding in first or reverse from a start. It isn't a final test but that absolutely did seem to help. This weekend I will have some more time to fool with it but I at least feel like I made some progress. I did not get up in there to see what type stud I have installed just yet but I will.

meweehaa · Aug 18, 2016

I'll get up under it again tomorrow night and see if I can get a flashlight past the headers to see if I can see the stud but I'm fairly certain I'll need to pull the tranny out to see anything.

tos · Aug 18, 2016

Yeah I doubt you'll be able to see it but if you've gotten it to work then I'd leave it alone. Have you driven it and test shifted since you bled it and cut the shaft?
Also that bell housing looks like it is setup for a cable driven clutch so you may have to just work with what you've got if it works.

meweehaa · Aug 18, 2016

The bell is absolutely a cable clutch bell from a fox body.

Yes I did a test drive in it. But the real shift issue I had was just 1st or reverse from neutral at a stop. It was great to get it out again.

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