Thought I would share my latest project and dispell maybe a few myths I heard along the way regarding the parts I chose for my swap.
My parts list:
New T5Z Trans from Jegs, stock 65 looking shifter
New late model bellhousing, block plate, shift fork
Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel
Ford Racing King Cobra Clutch w/ throwout bearing
JME Hydraulic Clutch
Existing starter
Modern Driveline trans. mount
This conversion is not real difficult to do, but I found it a little rough going only because I did it by myself, and on my back. Would be much easier with two people and a lift. All in all this is the best/most fun thing I have done to the car. I ran it pretty hard this past weekend for the first time since finishing it, and it is very nice to roll down the freeway at 85mph and only turn 2K rpm.
Here are some of MY findings with the setup I chose.
1. Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel: I had read that the aluminum flywheel would require higher revs to get the car off the line. IF this is true, I'm really not noticing it. It seems to me that it leaves just fine. What I do notice is that the car revs very quickly. I think that is the most notable benefit of the aluminum flywheel. So, to me, the higher revs to get of the line myth...BUSTED. Quicker revs and getting up to higher rpm's faster than a steel flywheel, true, very true. These can be had on E bay for $265, awesome price for a beautiful piece.
2. King Cobra Clutch: I had read A LOT about cluthcs before buying one. This clutch had mixed reviews, but for the price...I had to try it. Some had said that it was too stiff, and that it didn't hold, while others said that it wasn't overly stiff and held all they could throw at it. Well, I don't have hundreds of miles on it yet, but it took everything my well built 306 had, and before I batted an eyelash I was well over 120 mph on an early Sunday morning barren freeway. I think it is definitely stiffer than a stock clutch, but it needs to be for the clamping force it offers. For the money, I don't think you can go wrong with this clutch. Fortunatly, and perhaps it is due to the hydraulic clutch, I have had no issues of clutch chatter either.
3. JME Hydraulic Clutch: I debated for about 3 weeks between hydraulic and cable clutch. There are many pro's and con's for each. I deceided on the hydraulic for the reason that a) It is easier to route with headers b) It offers an easier pedal, nice for a stiffer performance clutch c) Visually appealing, looks much nicer with the braded steel line going to the slave cylider as opposed to a big ole clutch cable winding through the engine bay. I read many nightmare stories regarding bleeding these things. Let me say, I have NO idea what the issues are. If you have ANY knowledge of bleeding a hydraulic system, than you can do this. I had it bled in literally 5 mins with my GF's help pumping the pedal for me. I also heard that a hydraulic clutch is too light of a feel. Well, everyone's opinion will vary, but I do not find it too easy. I get a lot of feedback through the pedal and it is very predictable where the clutch comes in and out relative to the pedal travel. When you break it down it is only $150 more to go hydraulic, and I feel the pro's of it out weigh the con's, and it is worth every penny. The hardest part for me was mounting the master cylinder due to the tight quarters under the dash. So, to recap, I found it is NOT hard to bleed and it is NOT too light of a pedal, unless maybe it is used with a stock clutch.
4. T5Z: This should be at the very top of your mod list. It has an overdrive...what else needs to be said. This really is a bolt in mod. Run it with the later bellhousing, and it just does not get any easier. For me it would have been nice to have a helping hand when putting it in, but I managed. I did have to get my drive shaft shortened 1 inch, but that only cost $85 and included a rebalance. Going from a C4, 3 gear auto, to a 5 gear manual has made a huge difference in the car.
Some things I did and didn't expect from the mod: The car idles a lot smoother, it runs cooler, and it is faster.
I also put new headers and exhaust on the car. If you do this, your exhaust guy will appreciate the Modern Driveline trans. mount, as it offers the greatest clearance for exhaust.
I'm very pleased with the results and if any of you deceide to go for it and need and questions answered I'm here to help. Having actually done it my self and reading literally hundreds of write ups about it, I'm confident I can give good opinions on how to go about it.
My parts list:
New T5Z Trans from Jegs, stock 65 looking shifter
New late model bellhousing, block plate, shift fork
Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel
Ford Racing King Cobra Clutch w/ throwout bearing
JME Hydraulic Clutch
Existing starter
Modern Driveline trans. mount
This conversion is not real difficult to do, but I found it a little rough going only because I did it by myself, and on my back. Would be much easier with two people and a lift. All in all this is the best/most fun thing I have done to the car. I ran it pretty hard this past weekend for the first time since finishing it, and it is very nice to roll down the freeway at 85mph and only turn 2K rpm.
Here are some of MY findings with the setup I chose.
1. Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel: I had read that the aluminum flywheel would require higher revs to get the car off the line. IF this is true, I'm really not noticing it. It seems to me that it leaves just fine. What I do notice is that the car revs very quickly. I think that is the most notable benefit of the aluminum flywheel. So, to me, the higher revs to get of the line myth...BUSTED. Quicker revs and getting up to higher rpm's faster than a steel flywheel, true, very true. These can be had on E bay for $265, awesome price for a beautiful piece.
2. King Cobra Clutch: I had read A LOT about cluthcs before buying one. This clutch had mixed reviews, but for the price...I had to try it. Some had said that it was too stiff, and that it didn't hold, while others said that it wasn't overly stiff and held all they could throw at it. Well, I don't have hundreds of miles on it yet, but it took everything my well built 306 had, and before I batted an eyelash I was well over 120 mph on an early Sunday morning barren freeway. I think it is definitely stiffer than a stock clutch, but it needs to be for the clamping force it offers. For the money, I don't think you can go wrong with this clutch. Fortunatly, and perhaps it is due to the hydraulic clutch, I have had no issues of clutch chatter either.
3. JME Hydraulic Clutch: I debated for about 3 weeks between hydraulic and cable clutch. There are many pro's and con's for each. I deceided on the hydraulic for the reason that a) It is easier to route with headers b) It offers an easier pedal, nice for a stiffer performance clutch c) Visually appealing, looks much nicer with the braded steel line going to the slave cylider as opposed to a big ole clutch cable winding through the engine bay. I read many nightmare stories regarding bleeding these things. Let me say, I have NO idea what the issues are. If you have ANY knowledge of bleeding a hydraulic system, than you can do this. I had it bled in literally 5 mins with my GF's help pumping the pedal for me. I also heard that a hydraulic clutch is too light of a feel. Well, everyone's opinion will vary, but I do not find it too easy. I get a lot of feedback through the pedal and it is very predictable where the clutch comes in and out relative to the pedal travel. When you break it down it is only $150 more to go hydraulic, and I feel the pro's of it out weigh the con's, and it is worth every penny. The hardest part for me was mounting the master cylinder due to the tight quarters under the dash. So, to recap, I found it is NOT hard to bleed and it is NOT too light of a pedal, unless maybe it is used with a stock clutch.
4. T5Z: This should be at the very top of your mod list. It has an overdrive...what else needs to be said. This really is a bolt in mod. Run it with the later bellhousing, and it just does not get any easier. For me it would have been nice to have a helping hand when putting it in, but I managed. I did have to get my drive shaft shortened 1 inch, but that only cost $85 and included a rebalance. Going from a C4, 3 gear auto, to a 5 gear manual has made a huge difference in the car.
Some things I did and didn't expect from the mod: The car idles a lot smoother, it runs cooler, and it is faster.
I also put new headers and exhaust on the car. If you do this, your exhaust guy will appreciate the Modern Driveline trans. mount, as it offers the greatest clearance for exhaust.
I'm very pleased with the results and if any of you deceide to go for it and need and questions answered I'm here to help. Having actually done it my self and reading literally hundreds of write ups about it, I'm confident I can give good opinions on how to go about it.