hey guys, this is my first time out of the classic thread so go easy on me. i'm gonna be looking for an 85-93 t5 to get rid of my auto and i was wondering what i need to look for in a used t5? how much play should there be in the input shaft? what parts of the tranny are expensive to replace? thanks for the help in advance
t5 transmission question
- Thread starter mxmattd
- Start date
I would guess, you would want a WC T-5 . WC= world class, you do not want to swap in a non WC trans as it would not be as strong. .You can tell if it is a WC t5 by the bearing plug/cap on the front face of the trans, at the 7 o'clock position of the input bearing retainer. on WC t-5's the cap will have timken written on the out edge, and non-WC t5's the cap will look like a engine coolant plug.
The input shaft bearing retainer, would normally be made from aluminum in stock form , so you want to change that out to a steel one
when you have the input bearing reatainer off, take a look at the bearings and race, if it looks torn up, it will take a lot of time or cost alot to replace the bearing , since you have to take apart the trans to pull the input shaft.
As far as the endplay in the input shaft, according to ford there should not be any endplay. but according to my SAE mech at ford, it is ok as long as it does not touch the sides of the retainer,
Since I changed to a steel retainer, I just corrected my bearing play with a shim kit from ford. this kit comes with about 50 or so shims. (thats why it costs $105. I was able to get almost no play, but still turn easily w/ no binding. note* a dial caliper helps. just keep test fitting shims in and test fit the retainer with all 4 bolts torqed down. Basically,You are just setting the preload on the bearing in the retainer.
also there are alot of good write ups on the web
oh and make sure you find the correct speedo gear BEFORE you put the trans back in ...lol
have fun
-Geoffrey
The input shaft bearing retainer, would normally be made from aluminum in stock form , so you want to change that out to a steel one
when you have the input bearing reatainer off, take a look at the bearings and race, if it looks torn up, it will take a lot of time or cost alot to replace the bearing , since you have to take apart the trans to pull the input shaft.
As far as the endplay in the input shaft, according to ford there should not be any endplay. but according to my SAE mech at ford, it is ok as long as it does not touch the sides of the retainer,
Since I changed to a steel retainer, I just corrected my bearing play with a shim kit from ford. this kit comes with about 50 or so shims. (thats why it costs $105. I was able to get almost no play, but still turn easily w/ no binding. note* a dial caliper helps. just keep test fitting shims in and test fit the retainer with all 4 bolts torqed down. Basically,You are just setting the preload on the bearing in the retainer.
also there are alot of good write ups on the web
oh and make sure you find the correct speedo gear BEFORE you put the trans back in ...lol
have fun
-Geoffrey
Aliate X
Member
Aliate X said:
I would have bought that countershat and a 3rd gear off you if you didn't bust it with a sledgehammer
dragnazz5.0
My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0
LEE93COBRA
New Member
put it in gear and rotate the imput shaft. Verify that there are no knocking noises (that could make you think that there are broken gears)
Aliate X
Member
Aliate X
Member
8950HO said:This is funny,this particular T-5 must have really pissed you off.
Felt I need to give some of the pain back that it gave me.
I made a tech thread on duggerracing.com "How to properly disassemble your Borg Warner T-5 Transmission", with all the pictures of taking it apart with a slege hammer, grinder and pick axe, and it got stickied in the tech section lol.
fidstang
New Member
