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Tackled the Spark Plugs Tonight...

  • Thread starter Thread starter highvolts
  • Start date Start date Apr 8, 2008
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NotQuik

Founding Member
Oct 21, 2000
5,158
29
88
Central Florida
Apr 9, 2008
#21
  • Apr 9, 2008
  • #21
highvolts said:
Dangit... You don't miss anything! I've got a K&N Drop-in installed right now, but eventually I'll get a CAI & Tune.
Click to expand...

haha...don't feel bad i'm in the same boat with the stock cai and tune
 

gashog

Member
Dec 26, 2006
139
0
16
Fresno, CA
Apr 9, 2008
#22
  • Apr 9, 2008
  • #22
Ok, so I want to do this now.

Where do you put the anti-sieze? Below the threads?
 

highvolts

20+ Year Stangneter
Sep 1, 2003
436
2
18
Ohio
Apr 9, 2008
#23
  • Apr 9, 2008
  • #23
gashog said:
Ok, so I want to do this now.

Where do you put the anti-sieze? Below the threads?
Click to expand...

Correct, but not on the bridge of the electrode. if you download the PDF that I linked to, you will see a picture!

-Jason
 

gashog

Member
Dec 26, 2006
139
0
16
Fresno, CA
Apr 9, 2008
#24
  • Apr 9, 2008
  • #24
Hmm... can't get the pdf to open? can someone verify that it isn't my computer?
 

highvolts

20+ Year Stangneter
Sep 1, 2003
436
2
18
Ohio
Apr 9, 2008
#25
  • Apr 9, 2008
  • #25
gashog said:
Hmm... can't get the pdf to open? can someone verify that it isn't my computer?
Click to expand...

I tried it again, it works. make sure you are going to the right link and not the link with ......... in the middle.

http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/fad/tsb/06152.pdf
Click to expand...
 

GOLDENPONY

Founding Member
Jan 23, 2002
1,503
0
36
LOVELAND, OHIO
Apr 12, 2008
#26
  • Apr 12, 2008
  • #26
highvolts said:
Correct, but not on the bridge of the electrode. if you download the PDF that I linked to, you will see a picture!

-Jason
Click to expand...

You are correct Sir. If you get anti-seize on the "firing end", it WILL short out the plug.
 
S

Satin07Stang

Member
Nov 3, 2007
30
0
6
Central Tx
May 14, 2008
#27
  • May 14, 2008
  • #27
How can you tell that the antiseize you use is Nickel antiseize? I used the Permatex Antiseize found in most auto parts stores that says good up to 1600 deg F. Did I screw it up by using this antiseize and not the Motorcraft Nickel one? This Permatex does not say if it has nickel or not. It seems to be running fine after cleaning it and applying this to it.
 

highvolts

20+ Year Stangneter
Sep 1, 2003
436
2
18
Ohio
May 14, 2008
#28
  • May 14, 2008
  • #28
Satin07Stang said:
How can you tell that the antiseize you use is Nickel antiseize? I used the Permatex Antiseize found in most auto parts stores that says good up to 1600 deg F. Did I screw it up by using this antiseize and not the Motorcraft Nickel one? This Permatex does not say if it has nickel or not. It seems to be running fine after cleaning it and applying this to it.
Click to expand...

It will clearly say Nickel Anti-Seize. This is what I got:



http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=62525
 

highvolts

20+ Year Stangneter
Sep 1, 2003
436
2
18
Ohio
May 14, 2008
#29
  • May 14, 2008
  • #29
Oh Yea.. Nickel is up to 2400 Degrees F.
 

cave diver

Member
Sep 9, 2007
81
0
7
Lake County, Florida
May 15, 2008
#30
  • May 15, 2008
  • #30
Satin07Stang said:
How can you tell that the antiseize you use is Nickel antiseize? I used the Permatex Antiseize found in most auto parts stores that says good up to 1600 deg F. Did I screw it up by using this antiseize and not the Motorcraft Nickel one? This Permatex does not say if it has nickel or not. It seems to be running fine after cleaning it and applying this to it.
Click to expand...

It will say "Nickel" and will have a temperature range of at least 2,400 degrees. The nickel anti-seize I got is rated at 2,600 degrees. I'm afraid that the 1,600 degree anti-seize will burn off. Best to get the right stuff.
 

88GTtom

Member
Oct 22, 2003
198
0
17
Woodbridge NJ
May 15, 2008
#31
  • May 15, 2008
  • #31
mustangfo said:
I have 49,000 miles and was going to change my plugs on my car for the first time. You guys think that i should just take it to the dealer and let them do it or try to do it myself. I have priced the dealer and they told me $140. I already have the plugs autolight HT0
Click to expand...

if the ford tech breaks the plug, you will pay for the labor to remove it. they dont cover it under warrantee because they say the plugs are good till 100,000 miles and by that time everyone is out of warrantee. read on some other post a guy paid almosy 1000.00 dollars because ford broke 5 of the 8 plugs
 
S

Satin07Stang

Member
Nov 3, 2007
30
0
6
Central Tx
May 15, 2008
#32
  • May 15, 2008
  • #32
Wow, I went to Oreiley's, Autozone, and Advanced and they did not have the Nickel Antiseize. Did not know it was that hard to find, the best I saw was a Copper Antiseize that said 2000+degrees. Later today I will try Napa and Pep Boys, where did you guys buy yours, and will it be bad if I drive my car with the other antiseize? I figure it will just burn off and provide no protection but should not cause any issues.
 

highvolts

20+ Year Stangneter
Sep 1, 2003
436
2
18
Ohio
May 15, 2008
#33
  • May 15, 2008
  • #33
Satin07Stang said:
Wow, I went to Oreiley's, Autozone, and Advanced and they did not have the Nickel Antiseize. Did not know it was that hard to find, the best I saw was a Copper Antiseize that said 2000+degrees. Later today I will try Napa and Pep Boys, where did you guys buy yours, and will it be bad if I drive my car with the other antiseize? I figure it will just burn off and provide no protection but should not cause any issues.
Click to expand...

You should be OK. I got my from Fastenal. NAPA should have it or be able to order it for you. Check the Fastenal site, there might be a location near you.
 
S

Satin07Stang

Member
Nov 3, 2007
30
0
6
Central Tx
May 15, 2008
#34
  • May 15, 2008
  • #34
Just an update. I tried Pepboys and Napa and no luck. I found a Fastenal place close to me and when I went all they had was the 1LB bottle for $37.50, way too much anti-seize then I need and too expensive. I went to the dealership and ordered XL-2 which is their Motorcraft part number and it was $20 for an 8oz. Iasked them for Nickel antiseize and they looked at me like what??? I had to find the part number on my own. Just thought some folks would need this info.
 

GOLDENPONY

Founding Member
Jan 23, 2002
1,503
0
36
LOVELAND, OHIO
May 15, 2008
#35
  • May 15, 2008
  • #35
Anti-seize

I got my Permatex nickel anti-seize from Amazon.com of all places.
 

highvolts

20+ Year Stangneter
Sep 1, 2003
436
2
18
Ohio
May 15, 2008
#36
  • May 15, 2008
  • #36
Satin07Stang said:
Just an update. I tried Pepboys and Napa and no luck. I found a Fastenal place close to me and when I went all they had was the 1LB bottle for $37.50, way too much anti-seize then I need and too expensive. I went to the dealership and ordered XL-2 which is their Motorcraft part number and it was $20 for an 8oz. Iasked them for Nickel antiseize and they looked at me like what??? I had to find the part number on my own. Just thought some folks would need this info.
Click to expand...

Cool deal! You can use it for other things also. My 16oz should last me 12.4 years! lol.
 

highvolts

20+ Year Stangneter
Sep 1, 2003
436
2
18
Ohio
May 15, 2008
#37
  • May 15, 2008
  • #37
GOLDENPONY said:
I got my Permatex nickel anti-seize from Amazon.com of all places.
Click to expand...

Yea, they also sell the penetrating lubricant.
 

Art161

Member
Sep 26, 2006
130
0
16
San Francisco
May 15, 2008
#38
  • May 15, 2008
  • #38
88GTtom said:
if the ford tech breaks the plug, you will pay for the labor to remove it. they dont cover it under warrantee because they say the plugs are good till 100,000 miles and by that time everyone is out of warrantee. read on some other post a guy paid almosy 1000.00 dollars because ford broke 5 of the 8 plugs
Click to expand...

I thought that when a shop gives you an estimate for a job, they need to stick to that price if they break something. The occasional breaking of something should be built into the estimate. In many cases the shop estimates a price for a job and finishes it much quicker than what was figured into the estimate. They charge the estimate price. In the long run, things should balance out. Sometimes the shop eats the bear and sometimes the bear eats the shop.
 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is
May 1, 2005
3,015
1
79
7200 feet
May 15, 2008
#39
  • May 15, 2008
  • #39
Art161 said:
I thought that when a shop gives you an estimate for a job, they need to stick to that price if they break something. The occasional breaking of something should be built into the estimate. In many cases the shop estimates a price for a job and finishes it much quicker than what was figured into the estimate. They charge the estimate price. In the long run, things should balance out. Sometimes the shop eats the bear and sometimes the bear eats the shop.
Click to expand...

thats why they call it an estimate. they are estimating (based on published time figures) the repair cost. they are not planning on additional work that is unforeseen. techs and shops make money by being efficient. the faster you can do the job, the more jobs go through the door, the more you make. i dont know of any shop that would take care of unforeseen issues for free, unless it was a very small task.

techs work on commission (flat rate) and they wont work for free. would you?
 

Art161

Member
Sep 26, 2006
130
0
16
San Francisco
May 15, 2008
#40
  • May 15, 2008
  • #40
bigcat said:
thats why they call it an estimate. they are estimating (based on published time figures) the repair cost. they are not planning on additional work that is unforeseen. techs and shops make money by being efficient. the faster you can do the job, the more jobs go through the door, the more you make. i dont know of any shop that would take care of unforeseen issues for free, unless it was a very small task.

techs work on commission (flat rate) and they wont work for free. would you?
Click to expand...

If I broke something, I would not charge an additional amount.

One of the meanings of "estimate" in my dictionary is "a statement of cost of work to be done." I think that is the definition that the California Bureau of Automotive Repair uses. A shop can not charge more than the initial estimate unless the customer approves it. If I were given an estimate of $200 to change the spark plugs, and the shop called to say they broke some of the plugs and wanted $1000 to do the job, I doubt I would approve it.
 
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