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TAD and TAB

  • Thread starter Thread starter a1machinista1
  • Start date Start date Mar 7, 2024
A

a1machinista1

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#1
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TAD And TAB hot wires are a constant
12v keyed source?
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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a1machinista1 said:
TAD And TAB hot wires are a constant
12v keyed source?
Click to expand...
This is from my 83 manual....
 
A

a1machinista1

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I guess my question is: is this a good constant non fluctuating 12v source. I was going to use it for an AFR controller..
 

Noobz347

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I am
a1machinista1 said:
I guess my question is: is this a good constant non fluctuating 12v source. I was going to use it for an AFR controller..
Click to expand...
Only if you use it just to trigger a relay and not as a main power source for the meter.

The relay can be wired and fused directly to the battery and ground. You can use the powered source you've found as a relay trigger with no issue.
 

Mustang5L5

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On 86+ cars, it's Key on power. It's fed off the EEC relay. Wire 361



 
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A

a1machinista1

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Where can I see this diagram with better resolution?
 

Mustang5L5

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a1machinista1 said:
Where can I see this diagram with better resolution?
Click to expand...

Downloadable copy here

1988 Mustang EVTM

1988 Mustang EVTM SImilar to 1987 and 1989 with minor differences in engine harness. Most non-engine related stuff is identical, such as power windows, HVAC, defrost, etc.
stangnet.com


google link copy here

1988 Mustang Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Guide (EVTM)

File is too large to upload. Here is link to it on my Google Drive. View: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1on5czXKmpETzxUggWTGtoUuVkJT2UUxN
stangnet.com


For 1988 though, but for what you are doing it mostly still is accurate
 
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a1machinista1

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Cool thank you, ok here's a question? Since wire #361 is powered from the EEC relay is it really necessary to use wire 361 as the trigger fir an additional relay instead of a fused direct running supply?
 

Mustang5L5

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Depends how much current you intend to pull. The ECU relay is on a fusible link. 20g fusible link is good for 10 amps.

Looking online, an AFR controller looks to be 5 amps, but would have to see what the rating is on yours. Are you using the TAB/TAD and EGR regulator?
 
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a1machinista1

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Mustang5L5 said:
Depends how much current you intend to pull. The ECU relay is on a fusible link. 20g fusible link is good for 10 amps.

Looking online, an AFR controller looks to be 5 amps, but would have to see what the rating is on yours. Are you using the TAB/TAD and EGR regulator?
Click to expand...
Mine says to fuse with 10A
Not using any of them.
Thanks for the input
 
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a1machinista1

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#11
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If you were asking which one I was going to use for 12v ? I'm not particularly stuck on any one!!
 

Mustang5L5

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With potential of 10a, I’d find something else to pull power from

Realistically it will prob pull 5-8a, but if that fusible link pops you’ll be on the side of the road waiting for a tow. Not worth the risk
 
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a1machinista1

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#13
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  • #13
Ok thank you. I ended up using the gray w/ yellow wire on the cruise control connector under my dash.... now I just need to figure out this Megssquirt tuning, but that should be a breeze......
 

manicmechanic007

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#14
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You all know and use ALLData right?
You can get and print every EVTM ever made at your library on AllData
(or you can subscribe and pay)
Where you gonna find one for a 86 Jaguar? or a 2021 Mercedes?
Your library, on AllData
Had to find one for a 69 Camaro the other day
Used my local library (again) printed the pages free
 
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