I've done this before and gotten a 1979 coupe down pretty lean, but my memory isnt what it use to be, what all should i take off of my 91 GT to get it race ready? also, how low can I go with weight without cutting something out?
Jack
Manual doors
Remove front bumper and fog light brackets/assemblies
lightweight suspension
lightweight brakes
hood
insulation on floor
remove anything you are not using from in front of the firewall
etc..etc...
back seats, dog bone on rear diff, carpet, sound deadening under carpet, you could go all out and take out the center console and door panels, trim panels inside, fiberglass hood, fiberglass hatch, lexan windows, take the dash out and put a aluminum piece in its place with just a few gauges that you need, all stereo and speaker stuff, passenger seat, good lord theres a lot of stuff you can take out
now there's something I have wondered about. Isnt that the factory counter weight that helps keep the front of the rear diff from kicking up so bad? My buddy took his off a few years ago, but I've always left mine on when I wasnt running a 9" rear.
some of the things listed I cant do, Factory stock class wont allow fiberglass hatch, lexan, but I can change the hood to a lift off. I will be moving the battery to the back, can anyone suggest a good NHRA approved metal batter box?
Jack
now there's something I have wondered about. Isnt that the factory counter weight that helps keep the front of the rear diff from kicking up so bad? My buddy took his off a few years ago, but I've always left mine on when I wasnt running a 9" rear.
I talked to a FRPP tech guy and he said if you have changed out the rear gear, to toss the dogbone aside. he said it was only used to help with vibration, but if you have changed out the gears, its useless
thats not from personal experience, thats what the FRPP guy said
If your trying to compete in a class then it might be harder than for the "sportsman" who goes by no rules. I've done quite a lot of weight reduction to my car recently, of course it's much easier when it's apart, but the idea is to get is light, less weight equalls less drag, and were drag racing, right?
Complete Deletes (no replacments)
Front Bumper w/ Shocks
Fog Lamps w/ Lamp Support Bracket
Side mouldings
Airbag System w/.Bracketing & Sensors
Hood Prop
Hood Latch Assembly w/ cable w/switch
Washer bottle
Evap Cannister
Front Swaybar
P/S System
Smog System
A/C System
HVAC unit under dash
Stereo system w/speakers
Cruise Controll System
Sound Insulation Material Deleted (from firewall to hatch)
Rear Seat w/all Bracketing and Belts
Sub-brackets on Dash Support Frame
Center Counsil Supports
Differential Dampener
Padding under carpet and hatch
Quad Shocks and Brackets
Spare tire and jack
Rear Bumper w/shocks
Quad Shocks w/brackets
Tailpipes
Brake Booster
Lightweight Replacments: (replaced with lighter components)
Alumimum Heads
Alumimum Pullies
Front Coil Over Conversion
Tubular K-Member
Tubular A-arms
Flaming River Manual Rack
Catless Mid-pipe
Alumimum Driveshaft
Weld Wheels (15x3.5 & 15x8)
Drag bucket seats
LX trim.
Heavyweight Replacments
Alumimum Radiator (lighter empty but holds more coolant reversing reduction)
TKO 500 Trans
Upper and Lower Control arms
Larger battery
Adds weight:
Oil Cooler:
MM Full Length Subframes
Battery relocation unit
Driveshaft Loop
Great List 90MustangGT!!!
As for the question above...Yes the dogbone is useless when running any numericaly higher gear set then stock. Take it off and throw it in the Garbage. When I went too 3:73's in the old 8.8 I removed it...it's been a common thing to do for years.