Thanks AFP! Now I Need Advice...

You have lotsa power left on the table. The E-cam shouldn't be -that- bad, but I think you would definitely see some improvement from an FTI cam.

Dae

hmm imo the combo you have now should yeild a bit more power. cuz if i can put down 250 290 with out heads or a cam i think you can adjust things to get you closer to your 300 goal with i too have that 300 goal w/o an s/c or nitous. go with an x pipe i love mine but i did get the one with cats so im still leagal he he

BeerElf said:

John - I think your TQ is higher because I'm running the big TrickFlow R intake. I could probably gain some TQ by switching to something with narrower runners like a GT-40.

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Intake aside, those AFR 165's are high velocity heads, you should be getting a good amount of torque.

If there's power left on the table I'd like to find it but I'm not sure where else to look. I didn't think the E-cam was all "that" bad either, but the only reason I used it was that I lived in NorCal until last fall and I was more concerned with passing emissions.

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The E-cam is suboptimal, but even so I would expect more than you're seeing. Definitely get something better than the stock H-pipe. Personally I'd skip the underdrives, even with the upgraded alt. Especially if you have any plans for longtubes.

Properly tuned, AFR's are good for something more along these lines:



Have you taken it to the track? That's the real yardstick to measure by...

is you think you will get under 13.99 reliably then you dont need it
my best was is 13.7 and they still dint have me where a helmet but the last time i was there i run nothing but 13.8s and they kept writting on there i need to have a helmet. i was told last year cuz i have a moon roof i need one to go faster then 14.5 but oh well i where it to get used to it for later

Scooby5.0Doo said:

is you think you will get under 13.99 reliably then you dont need it
my best was is 13.7 and they still dint have me where a helmet but the last time i was there i run nothing but 13.8s and they kept writting on there i need to have a helmet. i was told last year cuz i have a moon roof i need one to go faster then 14.5 but oh well i where it to get used to it for later

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Eric you a cool mofo, but dame man, I gots to read your shimmy words at least twice to understand what you mean

Dude.... get a little straw like ya use for stirring coffee, and try to breathe through it.
Thats your stock h-pipe.
Now get one of those big fat McDonalds milkshake straws.... thats an aftermarket h/x-pipe.

See how the car lays down at 4700? Thats probably where it cant push the air through the stock pipe any more.

I'll bet if you go to a Bassani X or equivelant, I'd think you'd pick up AT LEAST 10 whp.

Air flow dynamics are like fluid flow dynamics are like electricity...etc. Once you reach a restriction, you can never regain the losses downstream, no matter what you do. You have to remove the restriction. The whole rest of the system is good parts, except for the stock H-pipe. NOTHING ELSE in the system can live up to it's potential, as long as that restriction is in place.

Just my .02
DD

BeerElf said:

I'd like to think I will be in the 13's but being my first time and on street tires, who knows...

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You'll get in the 13's no problem, I got 13.62@101mph on street tires with just 247rwhp on a 2000 GT and 13.44@101 with drag radials.

ddonaca351 said:

Air flow dynamics are like fluid flow dynamics ...

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Hey DD air is also a fluid ya know.

yeah sorry about that i just type somtimes and dont really think of how to spell the word right

Scooby5.0Doo said:

yeah sorry about that i just type somtimes and dont really think of how to spell the word right

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no sweet...just giving ya a hard time

ddonaca351 said:

Dude.... get a little straw like ya use for stirring coffee, and try to breathe through it.
Thats your stock h-pipe.
Now get one of those big fat McDonalds milkshake straws.... thats an aftermarket h/x-pipe.

See how the car lays down at 4700? Thats probably where it cant push the air through the stock pipe any more.

I'll bet if you go to a Bassani X or equivelant, I'd think you'd pick up AT LEAST 10 whp.

Air flow dynamics are like fluid flow dynamics are like electricity...etc. Once you reach a restriction, you can never regain the losses downstream, no matter what you do. You have to remove the restriction. The whole rest of the system is good parts, except for the stock H-pipe. NOTHING ELSE in the system can live up to it's potential, as long as that restriction is in place.

Just my .02
DD

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EXACTLY!!! I have seen as much as 20 to the wheels out of a bassani X pipe. The more hp you make the more the stock cat pipe hurts you. I am suprised nobody has commented on the lean appearing air fuel ratio. This is another thing to be aware of with stock cats durring dyno tuning. The af gauge before the cats read 13.2 and the sniffer is as much as 1 point higher. Also the E cam is a less than steller. I like the stage 2 trick flow cam. Hairy Dave is right about the track. I ran 12.8 in Mishas car that made 282 hp on the chassis dyno.

AllFordPerf said:

EXACTLY!!! I have seen as much as 20 to the wheels out of a bassani X pipe. The more hp you make the more the stock cat pipe hurts you. I am suprised nobody has commented on the lean appearing air fuel ratio. This is another thing to be aware of with stock cats durring dyno tuning. The af gauge before the cats read 13.2 and the sniffer is as much as 1 point higher. Also the E cam is a less than steller. I like the stage 2 trick flow cam. Hairy Dave is right about the track. I ran 12.8 in Mishas car that made 282 hp on the chassis dyno.

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What did Mish' run in the same car.....?

DD

Your plan sounds good. You may try the pullies and mid-pipe prior to another camshaft change, and see what that will net you. Also, depending on your preference, you may elect to delete EGR and/or run a short belt. My car made 275rwhp and 310rwtq with incorrect plugs and valve float. After changing plugs, valve springs, adding a phenolic spacer and deleting my EGR, my car is closing on the 300rwhp mark with the following:
box stock GT-40P heads
stage 1 TFS cam
TFS valve springs
1.6 roller rockers
typhoon upper/lower
65mm t-body
24lb injectors
76mm C&L
march pullies
short belt
EGR delete
mac long tubes
prochamber
flowmaster cat-back
This build-up is as budget as you can go, as I spent just over $1000 on the engine mods from K&N to cam. Before I dyno next, I will probably convert to a manual rack as well. If you are willing to go bare-bones, you can make power easily. Good luck!

...oh hell no. My fastback is armstrong steering, that sucks. (mostly in parking lotts and stuff, but still...)

DD