The Effects of Boost on an Engine

The key to any of the above is good tuning for longevity. I think what the author is saying is that you shouldnt hastily decide on one power adder over the other without deciding first what your motor can actually handle. Not really sure why some things are worded the way they are though, I mean so many setups have been proven with a stock 302 block that nowadays its just a matter of picking one and "doing it"

Like I said though the key factor will always be tuning

Putting a 125 shot of NO2 on a low mileage engine is probably OK IF it is tuned properly. Doing the same 125 shot on a 100 K + mile engine is going to definitely shorten the remaining life in it.

The NO2 setups tend to be cheap, I bought it at the swap meet kind of thing. Guys are looking for a cheap way to beat the competition. The kit hardware may be excellent, but the buyer does not want to invest the effort, time and money to learn how to tune it themselves. Most of them don't have the $$$ for a two stage custom dyno tune either. One stage is street tune without NO2 and the other is full race with the full shot of NO2 running. The result is an engine that makes a few NO2 passes and then comes apart in a spectacular show of bent, broken flying parts and smoke.

I would go with a wet nitrous system. They are a little safer in my opinion. I have had nitrous on my car for over 5 years now and still running strong. I have however had issues with tranny's and axles. So there were some sacrifices made.

93gtmustang said:

So with my set-up would I need a tune?
I like the idea of the Zex kit controller working of your TPS to kepp the fuel mixture correct.
Would that kit be ok to run?

Click to expand...

The TPS does not give information about the amount of air entering the engine. It only measures the amount of throttle opening. The Mass Air Flow meter (MAF) provides air flow information to the computer. The NO2 kits use the TPS to keep from turning on the NO2 until you are in sufficient throttle opening range for full power.

There are wet NO2 kits and dry NO2 kits.

Wet NO2 kits use a separate fuel injector that is turned on only when NO2 is in use. Fixed size jets are used to control the amount of fuel supplied to get the desired air/fuel ratio. Change the jet and you change the air/fuel ratio. You need an air/fuel indicator to help choose the right jet size for max power and minimum possibility of engine damage.

Dry NO2 kits use the engine fuel injectors to supply the correct amount of fuel for the proper air/fuel ratio. This usually requires larger injectors and a two stage tune to make the car street drivable and still have the extra fuel for use with NO2.

Wet kit needs for max power and minimum possiblity of engine damage.
At the very minimum, you need a data logging air/fuel instrument to watch the air/ fuel ratio, and a variable spark advance ignition system. The variable spark advance will provide a decreased amount of spark advance to reduce the possibility of detonation. Detonation is the primary engine destroyer on NO2 equipped engines.
Typical ignition system -
MSD 6BTM w/Built-in Boost Control (6462) $443.52


See http://www.msdignition.com/ignition_7_6462.htm

Typical air/fuel instrument with data logging - Innovate LM-1 Air/Fuel Ratio Monitors - price is $350.


See http://store.summitracing.com/partd...1&part=INN-3723&N=700+400587+115&autoview=sku

you dont believe that you could increase hp and trq by 50-100% while not increasing engine wear do you?? everything in life is a comprimise