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Progress Thread The "Fauxstang" Dynacorn '67 fastback

  • Thread starter Thread starter Johns331
  • Start date Start date Dec 9, 2020
J

Johns331

Member
Feb 19, 2000
17
4
13
Natchitoches, LA
Dec 9, 2020
#1
  • Dec 9, 2020
  • #1
If anyone wants to start one of theses projects, don't think for a minute that the body comes with everything needed, it doesn't. And some things are not reproduced or the repo's are so bad that they are not worth using. I should have bought a rust bucket that had most of its parts still on it. Most everything can be found on ebay but oftentimes the parts are worn out or damaged or pricey. My plan was to build a car suitable for the street and autocross. I started out by attempting to stiffen the chassis using using some Tinman SFC's and chassis reinforcement plates from opentracker.com plus re welding most of the spot welds on the chassis. The car came with torque boxes and a 'vert seat pan so the only other thing I'm doing is to install a cage designed for autocross or open track racing. There will be no rear seat , that area will be covered by a "R" model rear seat delete. Here's a photo of the bottom side showing the Tinman SFC's and the E Stopp parking brake actuator. The bottom side is covered in epoxy primer covered by Raptor Liner bed coating and tinted to body color.


This is the plates welded in to strengthen the shock tower area, and the upper control arm relocation.


Due to the size of the T56, I had to cut away some of the transmission mount/front cross member. I welded in some 10 gauge steel plate on the inside to reduce flex in this area.
 
Last edited: Dec 9, 2020
Reactions: Gearbanger67

ChaseRoads

do I need to lube this area?
Oct 29, 2020
220
73
38
midwestern america
Dec 10, 2020
#2
  • Dec 10, 2020
  • #2
i always assumed if you built one of these you would start with a whole car and move things over.
 

horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
12,281
8,136
233
Wile Coyote's stunt double
Dec 10, 2020
#3
  • Dec 10, 2020
  • #3
This is why i prefer doing a conversion ,the last full repro. body we did the window was caulked over to the passenger side and had to be pushed over with a porta power .
At least with a conversion the sub structure is finished Ford original and is much easier to fit the fast back sheet metal . I never buy the welded kit as it is usually not welded together correctly ,the un welded kit i can set it up correctly but it is a lot more welding . I have actually had great results building conversions with body panel fit ,over trying to align the body panels on the new bodies .
 
Reactions: RaggedGT
J

Johns331

Member
Feb 19, 2000
17
4
13
Natchitoches, LA
Dec 11, 2020
#4
  • Dec 11, 2020
  • #4
Street or Track Watts link rear suspension. Using a fabricated 9" with full floating axles and disc brakes with in integral parking brake. The Watts link allows the rear roll center to be adjusted up or down. The Shocks are custom valved Bilstein coil overs.
 
J

Johns331

Member
Feb 19, 2000
17
4
13
Natchitoches, LA
Dec 13, 2020
#5
  • Dec 13, 2020
  • #5
Street of Track front suspension with Bilstein shocks, and using large bearing spindles. SorT 13" brakes.

Steering column is an Ididit tilt. The interior of the body is covered in Lizardskin heat and sound deadning.

Radiator is a Ron Davis big block radiator, using a Ford Countour fan assemmbly
 
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