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The First Mod For A Clean Fox Mustang Without Debate

  • Thread starter Thread starter 89CopCoupe
  • Start date Start date Jul 1, 2005
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89CopCoupe

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Feb 17, 2004
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#21
  • Jul 1, 2005
  • #21
Also if anyone sees this car or parts there of (engine, tranny etc) pm me please ... I don't want the car back ... just a head
 

89CopCoupe

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#22
  • Jul 2, 2005
  • #22
srothfuss said:
Man, that is a true loss to the Mustang family. I am sorry to say that if you get your car back, it will never be the same.
Click to expand...

I'm with you ... even if I didn't get the car back ... someone is going to buy a stolen car or parts and the value of this Stang (no matter who owns it) has lost it's clean history and it's value

What is so modern thinking about not shooting horse thieves, dumb @zz liberals
 

The Fox

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Mar 30, 2005
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Jul 2, 2005
#23
  • Jul 2, 2005
  • #23
What is the best way to run a kill switch? I have a switch that I have to use for the fuel pump but is the best one to do? And what if someone trys to tow it? I want my car to be safe. I don't want to know what that feels like and I'm sorry for all the guys going through this. So how do I...

Shut off electricity...
Shut off fuel... (other than FP)
Keep them from even getting in?
 

89CopCoupe

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#24
  • Jul 2, 2005
  • #24
The Fox said:
Shut off electricity...
Shut off fuel... (other than FP)
Keep them from even getting in?
Click to expand...

Dude, it really sucks ... bad ...
Especially if you love your car. When my Toyota p/u was crack-jacked I was just pissed at the theft ... didn't care for the truck with any passion. But this car had 7K actual garage miles on it and not a single ding... not one.

The only thing I have left from my car is the drivers side busted door lock pieces.

Anyway,

It takes time to list the numerous methods that can be employed to cut power off to certain necessary running functions.

I'll just give you some electrical data so you can employ the method that you think would work best ... all of these are fine, but if I had only a quality motion/proximity alarm setup to an auxillary battery the car would still be mine.


DC (direct current= electrity only travels in one direction) electricity must complete a "circuit" or loop to work.
Electricty starts at an "origin" (battery)
Travels through "conductors" (cables/wires)
Is redirected to another location by a relay (ignition switch/solenoid/fuel pump relay/ etc)
And is then conducted to be absorbed by a "load" (lightbulb, fuel pump, starter etc)
Then the current returns back to the battery through a "ground" (metal body parts, negative cable, engine block).
(Like how the starters metal body is touching the engine block and the engine block is conncected to the neg cable which is connected back to the battery)
This is a "circuit".
A "short" circuit is when the electrity travels through the postive cable and back into the battery through the negative cable without a "load" part to absorb the energy.
This is why when you touch a screwdriver between the two posts on the battery it cooks ... the screwdriver does not act as a "load" but only a conductor ... or when a "hot" wire is toughing a metal body part. It never reaches a "load".
Anything touching/connected directly to the origin is "hot" unless there is a stop (switch) at some point. The current cannot continue to flow until the switch is activated to relay the power along down the stream.

Shutting off the electrity to the fuel pump or whatever requires putting a "stop" somewhere in the circuit
This is how you would determine what part is bad ... where the current stops in the circuit and does not continue when it is activated to do so or if a wire is bad it will receive current at one end but not relay it on to the other end of the wire ... so you have to determine at what point along the wire is the current hitting a "stop".

God I'm tired ... hope that helps you decide where you should put the "stops" and what parts you need to complete the circuit.
 

89CopCoupe

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#25
  • Jul 2, 2005
  • #25
Bump
 
T

TheUser

Active Member
Jul 25, 2003
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Springfield, MO
Jul 3, 2005
#26
  • Jul 3, 2005
  • #26
The Fox said:
What is the best way to run a kill switch? I have a switch that I have to use for the fuel pump but is the best one to do? And what if someone trys to tow it? I want my car to be safe. I don't want to know what that feels like and I'm sorry for all the guys going through this. So how do I...

Shut off electricity...
Shut off fuel... (other than FP)
Keep them from even getting in?
Click to expand...
If someone really wants it and they have enough time and the right tools, consider it gone. The best thing you can do is to hinder their progress and/or deter them...which is where the cutoffs and alarms come in. A simple well-hidden toggle switch placed inline of a fuel pump wire would deter most theives since the car won't start w/o fuel. You could also pull the fuel pump relay/coil wire and hide it or take it w/ you for added security in a real bad area. BTW, there's nothing I know that you can do to prevent someone from towing it...especially w/ a flatbed or a trailer.

I like to joke and say that if someone were to steal my GT, they'd either bring it back or I'd find it sitting along the road somewhere - most likely broken down
 

89CopCoupe

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Feb 17, 2004
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Jul 3, 2005
#27
  • Jul 3, 2005
  • #27
TheUser said:
If someone really wants it and they have enough time and the right tools, consider it gone. The best thing you can do is to hinder their progress and/or deter them...
Click to expand...

I agree with the deterance ... I think a good proximity alarm and transmitter as well.

TheUser said:
I like to joke and say that if someone were to steal my GT, they'd either bring it back or I'd find it sitting along the road somewhere - most likely broken down
Click to expand...

........ .........
 

89CopCoupe

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Feb 17, 2004
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#28
  • Jul 4, 2005
  • #28
Update ... I'm ready for them now :

-- -- - --- -- -- ---

 
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