Progress Thread The "grátis" 1966 Coupe - final sheet metal repairs

Davedacarpainter

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...

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Discordia

Mar 3, 2019

#141

• Mar 3, 2019

• #141

Look on the side of the nozzle(not the cap), there should be some numbers on them like 1.3, 1.4, maybe 1.5 or bigger as well.

The numbers are the size of the opening where the fluid flows through.

Bigger numbers are for thicker paint. Though at work I use a 1.3 to spray primer which most people would consider small for that task.

 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

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Mar 3, 2019

#142

• Mar 3, 2019

• #142

Thanks to both of you! My RapidAir kit will be arriving early this week. Plan is to finish setting up the system before the weekend. Pictures will follow. I'll also do the lacquer thinner flush of the gun then.

 

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02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

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Mar 6, 2019

#143

• Mar 6, 2019

• #143

Now the only piece of the puzzle I lack is the welder. Air system is done. I went with the ½" RapidAir kit, I hope I don't regret that decision. This system won't be used to paint the car, only primer. I think I'll be fine.

 

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Davedacarpainter

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...

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Mar 7, 2019

#144

• Mar 7, 2019

• #144

Excellent John!

 

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02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

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Mar 16, 2019

#145

• Mar 16, 2019

• #145

Feeling a bit defeated today. My goal for the day was the remove the trunk support, floor pan, and (time permitting) the cowl. However, because sheet metal always wins, I only managed to get the trunk support removed. I did manage to get the remnants of the extension brackets removed from the quarters. It may be for naught as there isn't really much left of the flanges on the quarters.

I also keep finding damage that looks like it came from a minor accident and a possible foray into off-roading. The driver's trunk floor has damaged I've mentioned before. Well, the passenger side has some damage on the drop off that looks like it bottomed out on something.

The kids were "helping".

Oddly enough, none of the spot welds on the back end of the driver's rear frame rail took.

What's left of the extension brackets.

The tail panel was replaced at some point. The just cut the old one out and put the new one over the top of it.

Damage to the passenger trunk drop off.



And the worst part, I found this after removing some bondo from the passenger quarter.

Looks like I won't be able to save this quarter after all. I'm wondering if I shouldn't just replace both quarters and trunk floors with all the damage back there. It's all solid, but I don't know if new sheet metal will line up correctly.

 

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02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

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Mar 17, 2019

#146

• Mar 17, 2019

• #146

I went through three cutoff wheels today.

Today went far better than yesterday. I made things much better for myself from the start by wearing some sunscreen and gloves. That little HF body saw is a joke. It got hot after about thirty seconds of cutting and began to run so slow that it wouldn't cut anymore. I broke out the reciprocating saw instead.

So I got back at it and removed the floor pan today. I didn't have time to cut out most of a remaining bits, however, I did manage to cut out the remnants from the rear frame rails. I figured that would be the hardest part, so I got to it first. The frame rails are squeaky clean inside. I decided to save the original seat risers. Not sure if I'll try to reuse them and sell off the ones that come with the floor pan kit.






The weld-thru primer is probably premature since I plan to get a sand blaster for all these nooks and crannies.
Until I do, I found these neat little roloc flap discs that help with cleaning up tight areas.


Next order of business will be to cut out the remaining bits of floor and then remove the cowl. I can probably reuse the cowl as long as I don't hack it up. It doesn't appear to be rusted through anywhere, but it needs a thorough cleaning out.

 

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02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

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Mar 18, 2019

#147

• Mar 18, 2019

• #147

@horse sence would these be a viable option to patch the areas that need it on my quarters? I don't want to cut corners, but I figure if I eliminate all the rust, a patch isn't really cutting corners, right?

I just really don't want to deal with trying to fit aftermarket quarters on my own.

 

horse sence

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Mar 18, 2019

#148

• Mar 18, 2019

• #148

Some skins dont have the flange at the end caps ,i would ask first ,if they do that would be a fairly cheap fix . If you do a full quarter ,it will have the piece

 

horse sence

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Mar 18, 2019

#149

• Mar 18, 2019

• #149

A skin will not have the end flange ,it is only the face of the quarter it doesnt have the top portion of the quarter

 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

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Mar 18, 2019

#150

• Mar 18, 2019

• #150

I'm thinking I could still use the skin to patch areas like the wheel well rust and just buy the extension pieces separately?

When you say they don't have the end flange, are you talking about the part that the extension attaches to?

Would a skin essentially be like this without the flange on the end?

 

horse sence

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Mar 18, 2019

#151

• Mar 18, 2019

• #151

A skin is only tbe outer surface ,it doesnt go all the way over at the top

 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

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Mar 18, 2019

#152

• Mar 18, 2019

• #152

Technically I might not need it to? I'm only thinking of it as a way of patching the rear most end where the extension attaches. There is damage on the quarter panel side of the trunk drop offs on both sides along with the little bit that's left of the flanges the extension brackets attach to. Not to mention the rusted bit over the wheel well I discovered over the weekend.

I'm just trying to avoid replacing the whole quarter since I see what a pain fitment can be.

 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

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Mar 23, 2019

#153

• Mar 23, 2019

• #153

Finished removing the remnants of the old floor pan today. I dare say this car is ready for a new floor. I still want to get a sand blaster and blast all the mating surfaces before then, though. I also need to grab a shop vac so I can make sure the frame rails are completely free of debris.


Difficult to see, but there was a significant dent in the driver's floor support. I used the dolly and my air hammer to get it flat again. Good as new!




I'm genuinely having fun using this body hammer set.

In other news, I had been wondering why there were a bunch of holes drilled into the top of the passenger rocker. I noticed today that it had A LOT of bondo on it. I initially thought it was rusted out, however, it turns out that it was just dented like hell. I think this confirms my off-roading theory. The holes were drilled because someone tried to push the dents out from behind. They did some pulling as well. Eventually they just gave up and slapped a bunch of bondo on it. It was nearly an inch thick in some places.


This brings me to an important question for @horse sence
How can I support the car when I cut out part of this rocker for a patch? Should I wait until I get the floor pan in to address this? I've also been thinking that I should hold off on cutting out the remaining fender aprons and the cowl until I get the floor pan in. If I remove all that, the only thing holding the frame rails to the car will be the toe board. Would it be alright as long as I support the frame rails? What's the best course of action here? Patch the toe board and then worry about the fender aprons?

I also moved the jack stands to the rockers. It's very close to level as it is. The left side and the front need to come up just a hair. I need to buy an extra level or two.

 

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horse sence

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Mar 24, 2019

#154

• Mar 24, 2019

• #154

Your idea with the air hammer and dolly is right on ,i have done this verry thing several times ,i support a steel plate under the floor support with a floor jack jacked tight to the support and let the hammer go ...se ,you do know what you are doing .
That rocker looks to have an upward bow in the middle ,a full rocker replacement is a pain unless you are also doing the rear quarter also. Support the car at the frame rails at both ends of the rails in the front and the rear making sure it is all level and you can do a full replacemend or a patch segment .

 

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horse sence

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#155

• Mar 24, 2019

• #155

Check out page 4 on my sticky thread ...coupe to fast back conversion ,i had to patch a rusty rocker ,this would be a easy ...sort of ,way for your repair

 

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horse sence

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Mar 24, 2019

#156

• Mar 24, 2019

• #156

I wish you were a bit closer ,i have a stack of Dynacorn rockers ,the shipping would make it not worth it though i am afraid

 

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2Blue2

will be trying this sex one when I can find it

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#157

• Mar 24, 2019

• #157

The driveway shop looks so clean.

02 281 GT said:

I'm genuinely having fun using this body hammer set.

Click to expand...

I Love hitting stuff with a hammer!


I'm really enjoying this build. Keep on it and keep posting all these great pictures.
Thanks for posting. Can't wait for it to start going back together.

 

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02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

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Mar 24, 2019

#158

• Mar 24, 2019

• #158

Back at it today. A buddy of mine came over and helped me remove the cowl. I got the car level before he arrived, but it moved a bit when we were drilling on it. I'll need to reset some of the stands and get it level again. Had some trouble supporting the rear and will get to that another time. Where is a good place to put a level in the rear? I'm assuming the gas tank flange is a level surface? I really wasn't sure so I just left it alone for now.

There was only minimal surface rust under the cowl. Other than a bunch of leaves and dirt, it was very clean under there! This will get blasted and covered in POR 15.





The plan from here is to hold off on any more removal until I get the new floor pan in. I'll work this week to get the car supported and level. First new metal to go in will be some patches for the pin-holed areas of the toe board, followed by the new floor pan. Then I will work on the fender aprons, radiator support, passenger rocker, and trunk floors and support. That should take care of everything structural. At that point I'll move on to addressing the issues with the quarters.

I took a good look at the passenger rocker. With a level up against it as a straight edge, the inner rocker appears to be straight. There is a slight wobble to the level in the middle of the inner rocker, but it's the same on the driver's side that is undamaged. The outer rocker is definitely bowed up. The plan there is the go ahead and cut the outer rocker from the inner at the spot welds and section in a patch with butt welds around the door jambs. I'd rather not mess with them if i can avoid it. That would allow me to replace the bowed and dented section while leaving the front and rear door pillars alone.

 

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02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

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Mar 24, 2019

#159

• Mar 24, 2019

• #159

Does anyone have any tips on keeping junk out of the cowl area in the future?

 

horse sence

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Mar 25, 2019

#160

• Mar 25, 2019

• #160

2Blue2 said:

The driveway shop looks so clean.



I Love hitting stuff with a hammer!


I'm really enjoying this build. Keep on it and keep posting all these great pictures.
Thanks for posting. Can't wait for it to start going back together.

Click to expand...

I have been told that because i like to do my metal work outside under a car port that my conversions are junk ,i have a 7 car shop ,but i dont like to have to move everything out to sweep out metal shavings and grindings ,that is a mess ,and outside you dont have to worry about welding fumes . Pull out your tape measure in your shop to 24 inches ,now go outside and pull it out to 24 inches ...its the same thing isnt it ! Same with a level ,so keep on keeping on

 

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