Build Thread The Hoopty Build

err... I may have misjudged the capabilities of each respective housing. I'm fresh to the turbo game still and had the same question come up on a local board. SO...

Also, since I decided to pass on the ancient turbonetics unit, there is a new-in-box one of these with the billet wheel and water cooling upgrade:

http://www.compturbo.com/products/ct43standard/ct43_8079

MSRP $2199, selling for $1400 ca$h. Once again, still waiting on the TKO to sell. :mad:
 
Well I'm home finally. Holy crap, you wouldn't believe the boxes I have here. Today will be spent collecting heads and other stuff from the machinist, and other parts I had friends pick up for me.

I have to admit, I'm a bit overwhelmed at the moment. My yard looks like the creepy folks from The 'Burbs and needs a solid 2 days work.

Then I need to figure out where to start with this car thing. Need to sell the cam and trans, assemble the engine, drop it in, and begin building a hot side. The tubing and headers are here :banana:.Pictures later.
 
Well I'm home finally. Holy crap, you wouldn't believe the boxes I have here. Today will be spent collecting heads and other stuff from the machinist, and other parts I had friends pick up for me.

I have to admit, I'm a bit overwhelmed at the moment. My yard looks like the creepy folks from The 'Burbs and needs a solid 2 days work.

Then I need to figure out where to start with this car thing. Need to sell the cam and trans, assemble the engine, drop it in, and begin building a hot side. The tubing and headers are here :banana:.Pictures later.
Whoopt-ti-Doo! Better get crackin' It is April after all.
 
Well, suffice to say that today was nowhere near as productive as I had imagined. Moroso thinks it's hilarious (apparently) to sell their windage trays without the necessary hardware to install them. Ok Jegs, here's another $45. While I was at it, I ordered some other necessary hardware, like oil pump studs and pan bolts. When building an engine from scratch, the hardware is just as necessary as the pieces/parts themselves. Who'da thunk it?

So with engine assembly out the window, I ventured over to the resto shop to try my hand at TIG welding.

Cliff notes:
Just because you're a rockstar MIG operator doesn't mean you can waltz in and make beautiful beads with a TIG. I only had 30 minutes to play with it, but this is my first ever attempt with a TIG.

img00781.webp

By hoopty50 at 2012-04-18

I'm almost too embarrassed to post this. But as I get time, I'll keep practicing until I can make beads presentable enough to leave unground.

Tomorrow, the GF wants some attention and then Friday I fly to Alabamer to visit the grandparents for the weekend. No updates til next week...
 
Well, suffice to say that today was nowhere near as productive as I had imagined. Moroso thinks it's hilarious (apparently) to sell their windage trays without the necessary hardware to install them. Ok Jegs, here's another $45. While I was at it, I ordered some other necessary hardware, like oil pump studs and pan bolts. When building an engine from scratch, the hardware is just as necessary as the pieces/parts themselves. Who'da thunk it?

So with engine assembly out the window, I ventured over to the resto shop to try my hand at TIG welding.

Cliff notes:
Just because you're a rockstar MIG operator doesn't mean you can waltz in and make beautiful beads with a TIG. I only had 30 minutes to play with it, but this is my first ever attempt with a TIG.

img00781.webp

By hoopty50 at 2012-04-18

I'm almost too embarrassed to post this. But as I get time, I'll keep practicing until I can make beads presentable enough to leave unground.

Tomorrow, the GF wants some attention and then Friday I fly to Alabamer to visit the grandparents for the weekend. No updates til next week...

Hmmm. Looks like my tig work, (only w/o the holes):rlaugh:
It obviously takes time, lots of it. I even cheated by spotting small tack welds w/ my mig, then I used the tig to flow out those spots.

Alabama? where in Alabama? There is a big car show going on on Saturday here (praying that it don't rain) maybe you can stop by?
 
Collin, take the ceramic cup of the tig torch and set it on the base metal to steady it. Adjust the stick out of your tungsten to give you the proper arc gap, i.e.- don't leave the electrode hanging too far out. Walk the cup back and forth to move ahead, this will help you keep steady and you can adjust the width of your bead with how far out you swing while walking. Practice makes perfect!
 
Hmmm. Looks like my tig work, (only w/o the holes):rlaugh:
It obviously takes time, lots of it. I even cheated by spotting small tack welds w/ my mig, then I used the tig to flow out those spots.

Alabama? where in Alabama? There is a big car show going on on Saturday here (praying that it don't rain) maybe you can stop by?

Flying in early Friday to Birmingham, but driving up to east-central Alabama (Dadeville is the town) and then flying back Sunday evening. Wish I could, I'd really like to see your car in person. How far from the airport are you?
 
Collin, take the ceramic cup of the tig torch and set it on the base metal to steady it. Adjust the stick out of your tungsten to give you the proper arc gap, i.e.- don't leave the electrode hanging too far out. Walk the cup back and forth to move ahead, this will help you keep steady and you can adjust the width of your bead with how far out you swing while walking. Practice makes perfect!

Thanks Allen. Any/all technique tips are appreciated. How far should the tungsten stick out of the cup? I had it out .25". I can't go try again until next week, but looking forward to sitting down and trying it again.

What I didn't like is instead of a foot pedal, he had a finger adjuster on the torch and it kept moving around. Made it difficult to control the torch.
 
Flying in early Friday to Birmingham, but driving up to east-central Alabama (Dadeville is the town) and then flying back Sunday evening. Wish I could, I'd really like to see your car in person. How far from the airport are you?
30 minutes. From the airport, you'll probably go south on 65, then around on 459 to Hwy 280. Hwy 280 is the way to Dadeville.
You'll be 10 minutes from me when you swing around off of 65 and get on 459. When you get to Dadeville, you'll be about 1/2 hour from the shops of this Site owner in Auburn.
Celebrity all around you,........ all within mere minutes.:banana:
 
OK so... Story time.

I wake up this morning to find a buddy selling his 427w (carbed) with C4, shifter, NAWWZZZ dry kit, blah blah blah. Engine is fresh.

$5,000.




...It is now mine.



From the ad:
"427 approx 9.5 to 1
Steel Crank
I beam rods
SRP Pistons
AFR 225 Heads W 1/2" Head studs
Victor Jr Intake
Custom Erson solid roller cam/ I have the cam card
Retro fit solid roller lifters
MSD Distributer w/8.5mm wires
Holley 950 Carb
CSI electric water pump
TCI Rattler balancer
Moroso 7 qt oil pan
Comp Cams Roller rockers
ALL ARP bolts
Kooks 1 3/4 Headers for 351 Fox Body
3/4" Drop solid motor mounts
4000 9" Stall
Art Carr C4 w/ Trans Brake and Cooler
High Torque Mini Starter
Lokar Throttle cable and Trans Fill Tube
NOS Big Shot plate kit
If I can answer any questiosn feel free to shoot me a PM
It has been started 3 times since installed in the car.
Ready to Run just add oil and a car.
I think 5000.00 would be a killer deal for someone. Complete set up ready to run."
 
Got a loan from the bank and will be selling off my motor/trans to pay off the loan. I can't wait to turn the key and let this thing party.
That sounds like the MOAD. What a dealio. A few Items:
Ahem.
I assume stock block?
SRP pistons are A step above Hyper U craptic,....They are still forged, but they are made from a higher silicon ratio that a standard forged piston.
Kits that feature I beam rods typically are accompanied by a Cast steel crank, Although it's way better than the stock piece.......might wanna ck before you attempt to spray that plate system all over it.
P.S. A big Shot plate is NOT a dry kit. If it was any wetter, you could enter it in a T shirt contest.