The Lifters!!!!!Dam

Guero · Jun 4, 2006

I took the lower intake off, to find every lifter ****ed!!!!!!! no wonder the noise was so consistent!!!!!!!!!!!! though t i rant!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

1TallMF · Jun 4, 2006

Thats ****ty... who are they made by? Just make damn sure you soak the new ones in oil a good long time before you put them in this time!

lol you must be able to rip the top end of the motor off in like 10 minutes now...

Guero · Jun 4, 2006

13min actually, i timed my self!!!!! And i ran inside to take a wiss to!!!!!!!!!! lol, im gonna let them sit in a can of oil for almost a week before i install them next time!!!!!!!lol. And there made by Ford

1TallMF · Jun 4, 2006

Overnight is usually adequate, but a weeks even better

Guero · Jun 4, 2006

lol!!!!!!!!!ok then ill wait to nights!!!!!!!!!!!

Grn92LX · Jun 4, 2006

You do NOT have to oil the lifters that long. I give them a quick dunk and thats ALL they need.

My guess is you set the lifter preload incorrectly or incorrect pushrod length.

Guero · Jun 4, 2006

how do you do the lifter preload??? and i bought an pushrod that checks the size, but how do you know were to stop and how to use it????? thnkas

urban96 · Jun 4, 2006

i soaked mine overnight in the lightest wieght oil i could find at walmart. then used the little tool that goes down the dist hole and spins the oil pump to prime the motor.

Guero · Jun 4, 2006

whick one is the lighest oil? you could just carnak and crank the engine instead of using that tool

Grn92LX · Jun 4, 2006

Guero said:
how do you do the lifter preload??? and i bought an pushrod that checks the size, but how do you know were to stop and how to use it????? thnkas

What size pushrods did you use?? With trickflow heads you're usually going to end up with around a 6.7". The adj pushrod checker is all trial and error. From my understanding, you want the contact patch on the valve tip centered and the patch can't be more than .080".

As far as lifter preload (setting the rockers) just follow the instructions.

Priming the oil pump like Urban suggested is a very good idea but not necessary on a used engine, its mandatory for a new engine though!

Guero · Jun 4, 2006

so when the liftes is all the down. The valve spring and rod have to be the same size meanibg even to each other?

Grn92LX · Jun 4, 2006

Guero said:
so when the liftes is all the down. The valve spring and rod have to be the same size meanibg even to each other?

The tip of the valve where the roller tip on the rocker slides on.

What size pushrods did you use?!?!?

R.J. · Jun 4, 2006

Preload:

With the piston at TDC with both valves in the closed position, do the following:

The first thing you want to do is verify zero valve lash. The best way to do this is to wiggle the push rod up & down as you tighten the rocker arm nut. At the point where the push rod no longer moves up & down, That is zero lash. You now have a starting point for verifying “true” zero lash & the lifter pre-load.

When you adjust the valves you are setting the lifter pre-load, Pre-load is the amount of distance the push rod seat (or “cup”) moves away from the retaining clip.

To set true zero lash & the lifter pre-load, We are going to follow the “EO / IC” procedure.

What is “EO / IC?

EO, is Exhaust Opening; IC, is Intake Closing.

We have the piston at TDC (Both valves are in the closed position), Rotate the engine in the normal direction of rotation (clockwise, if you are facing the front of the engine).
You will see the exhaust valve just starting to open, stop rotating the engine & back off the intake rocker arm.(You are going to back off the rocker arm & re-verify for true zero lash, As you are now positively on the base circle of the camshaft whereas the previous lash adjustment was just a pretty close ballpark guess.) You will once again wiggle the push rod up & down as you tighten the rocker arm nut. When all up & down movement is gone, tighten the rocker arm nut ½ turn, tighten the hex head set screw until it bottoms out on the rocker stud, tighten the rocker arm nut ¼ additional turn. You have now set the lifter pre-load at .045”.

Rotate the engine, You will see the exhaust valve fully open & then close. Watching the intake valve that you just set, You will see it open, You want to keep rotating the engine until it fully opens & then starts to close. When it is almost closed, stop rotating the engine. Set the exhaust valve the same way you did the intake valve.

Move onto the next cylinder in the firing order…

Guero · Jun 4, 2006

how do you follow the firing order? clockwise of the dizzy cap or counter?

Guero · Jun 4, 2006

Grn92LX said:
The tip of the valve where the roller tip on the rocker slides on.

What size pushrods did you use?!?!?

i think there 6.075, what ever the kit came with. so the pushrod has to sit flush with the tip of the valve?

urban96 · Jun 4, 2006

Guero said:
i think there 6.075, what ever the kit came with. so the pushrod has to sit flush with the tip of the valve?

no i think what he means is that the pushrod should be in the center of the lifter and rocker. you know how they have that little "cup" area for the pushrod to sit in. oil actually travels up through that and keeps things lubed

urban96 · Jun 4, 2006

wanna see what happens when a valve guide isnt put in right

R.J. · Jun 4, 2006

Guero: You can follow the dizzy or just know the firing order and as you turn the crank, look for the next one to start moving.

Guero · Jun 4, 2006

urban96 said:
wanna see what happens when a valve guide isnt put in right

did that happen to you?

Guero · Jun 4, 2006

urban96 said:
no i think what he means is that the pushrod should be in the center of the lifter and rocker. you know how they have that little "cup" area for the pushrod to sit in. oil actually travels up through that and keeps things lubed

i still dont know how to know what size to get. i dont get the way to use it?

The Lifters!!!!!Dam

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