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The small Stuff (Cam and Clutch install question)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Labora
  • Start date Start date Nov 3, 2008

Labora

Founding Member
Jun 11, 2000
1,854
26
69
Dallas, Texas
Nov 3, 2008
#1
  • Nov 3, 2008
  • #1
I am going to be putting a clutch kit and cam kit on my motor here pretty soon. (Stock 95 Cobra motor)

I was wondering if there was any small stuff I should get before hand?

Cam Kit:
Crane 2031 cam
Crane Cams 444226 - Crane CompuCam Camshaft and Spring Kits - summitracing.com
Rather not do a new timing chain but may do it anyhow.
Ford Racing M-6268-A302 - Ford Racing Timing Chain Sets - summitracing.com
Is there anything else I would need to degree the cam or anything else? (I want to install the cam strait up)

Clutch:
King Cobra clutch
Ford Racing M-7560-C302N - Ford Racing Clutch Kits - summitracing.com

New pilot bearing?
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FMS-M-7600-B

Got all the gaskets, sealant and cam grease I should need...

Just wondering, trying to get all my junk together before I make a order and also want to not have any last minute hangups when the time comes. Thanks for any help...
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,297
1,641
214
Acworth, GA
Nov 4, 2008
#2
  • Nov 4, 2008
  • #2
Not sure if that kit comes with a new pilot bearing. I would change the pilot bearing and the throwout bearing. Make sure the clutch comes with an alignment tool. If it doesn't, they cost about $3, and are available at the Auto Parts Store. There is a tool you can rent at Advance to remove the pilot bearing. It works awesome and saves a ton of time, and it doesn't cost you anything to rent it. You just have to put a deposit on it Make sure you have gear oil for the tranny, and a tube of black silicone to reinstall the shifter. Going to need plenty of razor blades to scrape off old gaskets. Most of the aftermarket clutch manufactures recommend reinstalling the clutch with red threadlocker, so get some of that.

I would go ahead and replace the timing chain on the engine. It's just good insurance. I also recommend making some alignment dowels to install the intake. It think the intake bolts are 5/16 x 24 or something like that. Just get some bolts that are about 4" long and cut the heads off of them. This saves a lot of hassle when you reinstall your intake. Just put 2 or 3 alignment dowels into the heads, and you drop the intake straight down on the gaskets. Keeps you from messing up the gaskets and stuff. I can't think of anything else right now. Oil, antifreeze, stuff like that. I just got off of work, and decided to kick back some turkey.

Kurt
 

Labora

Founding Member
Jun 11, 2000
1,854
26
69
Dallas, Texas
Nov 4, 2008
#3
  • Nov 4, 2008
  • #3
revhead347 said:
Not sure if that kit comes with a new pilot bearing. I would change the pilot bearing and the throwout bearing. Make sure the clutch comes with an alignment tool. If it doesn't, they cost about $3, and are available at the Auto Parts Store. There is a tool you can rent at Advance to remove the pilot bearing. It works awesome and saves a ton of time, and it doesn't cost you anything to rent it. You just have to put a deposit on it Make sure you have gear oil for the tranny, and a tube of black silicone to reinstall the shifter. Going to need plenty of razor blades to scrape off old gaskets. Most of the aftermarket clutch manufactures recommend reinstalling the clutch with red threadlocker, so get some of that.

I would go ahead and replace the timing chain on the engine. It's just good insurance. I also recommend making some alignment dowels to install the intake. It think the intake bolts are 5/16 x 24 or something like that. Just get some bolts that are about 4" long and cut the heads off of them. This saves a lot of hassle when you reinstall your intake. Just put 2 or 3 alignment dowels into the heads, and you drop the intake straight down on the gaskets. Keeps you from messing up the gaskets and stuff. I can't think of anything else right now. Oil, antifreeze, stuff like that. I just got off of work, and decided to kick back some turkey.

Kurt
Click to expand...

Need to find the correct part # for a throwout bearing then, I was thinking it and the pilot bearing where one in the same....

I will have to make some bolts like that for the intake for sure, should help. Thanks for that tip.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,297
1,641
214
Acworth, GA
Nov 4, 2008
#4
  • Nov 4, 2008
  • #4
You can get the throwout bearing and stuff at the auto parts store. Go a day early, generally what they keep in stock is made in China, but they can order you better quality stuff next day. Don't buy the Chinese stuff, the good stuff is like $2 more.

Kurt
 

Labora

Founding Member
Jun 11, 2000
1,854
26
69
Dallas, Texas
Nov 4, 2008
#5
  • Nov 4, 2008
  • #5
revhead347 said:
You can get the throwout bearing and stuff at the auto parts store. Go a day early, generally what they keep in stock is made in China, but they can order you better quality stuff next day. Don't buy the Chinese stuff, the good stuff is like $2 more.

Kurt
Click to expand...

I skip the ordering stuff part by going to the main warehouse of napa which is only 8~ mins from my house. (Supplies half of DFW)
 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2003
3,031
2
58
Tucson, AZ
Nov 4, 2008
#6
  • Nov 4, 2008
  • #6
I replaced the upper and lower intake bolts with studs in the four corners. They work awesome. They are 5/16" - 20. I don't remember the length, but once you remove the bolts, add a 1/2" and that length should be good. It makes it SOOO easy to install the upper/lower intakes. Also get nuts for each of the studs. Usually the studs will have coarse threads on the bottom, and fine threads on the top, so the coarse side will go into the heads/intake, and the fine will just need 5/16-24 nuts. SO worth it!!!

You will also need a 4-5" long bolt that threads into the front of the cam. That will make it easy to install the cam without screwing up the bearings when you get towards the end. Nice to have leverage.

And for the clutch, since I assume you will be dropping the transmission to do the job, the top bolts on the bell housing can be reached if you use 3-4ft of extensions with your socket/ratchet. Remember to always support the transmission, you don't want a bent input shaft.

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/techarticles/headcamintakeswap.pdf

That is a great write-up. It really helped me!

Good luck dude!
 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
Founding Member
Aug 7, 2002
9,516
6
99
Arkansas
Nov 5, 2008
#7
  • Nov 5, 2008
  • #7
The link in my signature may help you as well.

As modingo said, Good Luck!
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,297
1,641
214
Acworth, GA
Nov 5, 2008
#8
  • Nov 5, 2008
  • #8
mo_dingo said:
And for the clutch, since I assume you will be dropping the transmission to do the job, the top bolts on the bell housing can be reached if you use 3-4ft of extensions with your socket/ratchet. Remember to always support the transmission, you don't want a bent input shaft. !

Good luck dude!
Click to expand...

Why not just take the transmission off first and then take the bellhousing off afterwards. Then you don't need all kinds of extensions.

Kurt
 

Labora

Founding Member
Jun 11, 2000
1,854
26
69
Dallas, Texas
Nov 6, 2008
#9
  • Nov 6, 2008
  • #9
Moot point.

Since my tranny/motor are out of the car.
 
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