Finally got the car on the lift!
It appears that the oil on the floor is just from one leak, the transmission.
The seal is new. I had it replaced last year. Is there another seal or wearable component in there that would need to be replaced? It looks like I have a bit of a leak at the fuel tank. I plan on dropping the tank this fall and replacing all the seals anyway.
The last time I drove the car it started making a dragging noise from the right rear tire area. I suspected it had something to do with the drum breaks. That was the main reason for getting the car up on the lift. Once I got the wheel off I pulled the plug out of the back of the drum plate and used a break spoon to check the tensioner. It was loose, very loose. Also I cant see the little plate that rides on top of the tensioner and keeps it from loosening up. I'm guessing something popped loose and that thing is what is making the noise. The only problem now is the drum doesn't want to come off. I dont have an air chisel to really beat on it with. I've had to do that in the past. I was able to get a good swing at it with a punch and hammer. Do you guys have any tricks for getting the drum off? It's a new drum and shoes so it shouldn't have much of a grove for the shoes to be hanging on.
Here is a pic of the worn out rear suspension bushings.
I've already got all the bushings, but I need to pick up rear shocks and quad shocks.
It appears that the oil on the floor is just from one leak, the transmission.
The seal is new. I had it replaced last year. Is there another seal or wearable component in there that would need to be replaced? It looks like I have a bit of a leak at the fuel tank. I plan on dropping the tank this fall and replacing all the seals anyway.
The last time I drove the car it started making a dragging noise from the right rear tire area. I suspected it had something to do with the drum breaks. That was the main reason for getting the car up on the lift. Once I got the wheel off I pulled the plug out of the back of the drum plate and used a break spoon to check the tensioner. It was loose, very loose. Also I cant see the little plate that rides on top of the tensioner and keeps it from loosening up. I'm guessing something popped loose and that thing is what is making the noise. The only problem now is the drum doesn't want to come off. I dont have an air chisel to really beat on it with. I've had to do that in the past. I was able to get a good swing at it with a punch and hammer. Do you guys have any tricks for getting the drum off? It's a new drum and shoes so it shouldn't have much of a grove for the shoes to be hanging on.
Here is a pic of the worn out rear suspension bushings.
I've already got all the bushings, but I need to pick up rear shocks and quad shocks.
At the time I had the work done I knew that it was leaking. I just asked them to replace the seal. I'm not sure if they replaced the bushing or not. I was thinking that there was one in there, but wasn't sure. Thanks for the confirmation!
The shop is awesome! I just need to install lights and stuff. lol. You cant see in the picture, but it is already full of stuff.
The shop is awesome! I just need to install lights and stuff. lol. You cant see in the picture, but it is already full of stuff.
I know there is a tool that allows you to remove it while in the car, but they are real expensive. I did mine when I had the trans out. I took the tailshaft off, brought it to a shop, and for $20, they pressed the old bushing out and new one in. Replaced the slip yoke on driveshaft at the same time so everything wears together. So far no leaks!
Yeah, when there is nothing in there it looks like you've got tons of room. Then you pile all your stuff in it and BAM it's full. Once I get all the moving boxes out of the way and install shelves it should open back up. I'm not complaining though. Just pumped that I have a dedicated space for playing with stuff.
Found this last night as well. I thought that the oil plug was leaking, but it looks like its coming from the back of the engine. The pan gasket is a new one piece felpro. At some point I plan to pull the engine and go through it. As long as it doesn't start pouring it will be fine. The pan was squeaky clean when I put it back on the car and I have driven it much, couple hundred miles maybe. I tried tightening up the bolts, but they were already snug.
I already knew about this, but it needs to be addressed soon.
This is the only rust I have found on the car really, other than simple surface rust. When I had the carpet out is when I first noticed it. I cleaned it up on the inside with a wire wheel then primed and painted it on the inside. I also put a patch over it on the inside. The patch is this thick sticky stuff that comes in a roll at Lowes. Its about 6 inches wide and 10 feet long. It's a temp fix. I plan to wire wheel the bottom now as well as prime and paint.
I noticed that the car was leaking water out of the exhaust where the H pipe piping meets the rear exhaust piping. I know that condensate can form in there. I was just surprise that it was leaking as much as it was. Just a slow drip then it stopped. That is the low point in the exhaust on that side also.
This is a crack in the floor pan on the drivers side.
I have a patch over it on the inside of the car. Long term solution is to have it welded back up or whatever it takes to properly fix it. At the moment I dont feel like it is a 5 alarm emergency, but I dont want it to get worse (much worse anyway). I was thinking of drilling the ends of the crack to try to stop it from spreading. What do you guys think?
I have a patch over it on the inside of the car. Long term solution is to have it welded back up or whatever it takes to properly fix it. At the moment I dont feel like it is a 5 alarm emergency, but I dont want it to get worse (much worse anyway). I was thinking of drilling the ends of the crack to try to stop it from spreading. What do you guys think?
Well apparently fixing one issue means something new is going to demand attention! Who knew? Well, I got the rear brake issue sorted out and it's working much better now. I took the car out for a test drive and things seem to be good. It was getting dark when I went out so I turned on the head lights. They work fine, but now none of the dash lights work! You can mess with the dimmer switch and the dome light will flicker but that's it. I'll pull it out and try to check it. It could just be a loose wire. Not the end of the world, but I hope I dont have to replace the switch. I just looked at LMR they want almost $90 for a new one.
Those dimmer switch are old school with bare metal contacts that can easily get corroded over time. Don't take it out just yet, but instead move the wheel back/forth quickly to clean the contacts. Then try to reset the brightness. Doing this will clean the contact like taking scotchbrite to it.
I got the car back in the air last night so that I could take a closer look at the leaky transmission tail shaft. I went ahead and pulled the drive shaft. Oh, after only driving a few miles and letting it sit for a few minutes it had a nice little puddle under the transmission. Nothing huge, but enough. Once I got the drive shaft out of the way I found this.
Another crack. Not a big one, but something that I'll have to address. Maybe Santa will bring me a welder for Christmas....
This is what the yoke looks like.
It's obvious even in the picture that it is worn. I'll be replacing it soon. I'm going to go ahead and replace both universal joints as well. The one on the yoke feels find, but I don't see any reason not to change it. The one at the rear is smooth in one direction and clunky in the other. Definitely going bad.
Now for the $100 dollar question.... Does anyone out there have a transmission bushing puller that they would be willing to loan out? I don't really want to spend $200 plus on a tool that I doubt I'll use that much. I'll get one if I have to just to keep from pulling the transmission.
Another crack. Not a big one, but something that I'll have to address. Maybe Santa will bring me a welder for Christmas....
This is what the yoke looks like.
It's obvious even in the picture that it is worn. I'll be replacing it soon. I'm going to go ahead and replace both universal joints as well. The one on the yoke feels find, but I don't see any reason not to change it. The one at the rear is smooth in one direction and clunky in the other. Definitely going bad.
Now for the $100 dollar question.... Does anyone out there have a transmission bushing puller that they would be willing to loan out? I don't really want to spend $200 plus on a tool that I doubt I'll use that much. I'll get one if I have to just to keep from pulling the transmission.
Now for a couple of random questions. Does anyone know what this plugs into? It's located in the left fender below the washer fluid reservoir.
Next question. What are these spacers in the rear spring. This is the left hand spring. I already have new bushings and isolators to replace the worn out stuff, so don't be alarmed at the condition of the current equipment!
There are two of them on it, and none on the other one.
Next question. What are these spacers in the rear spring. This is the left hand spring. I already have new bushings and isolators to replace the worn out stuff, so don't be alarmed at the condition of the current equipment!
There are two of them on it, and none on the other one.
That plug is for gt fog lights. The spacers are junk aftermarket. New springs would be the best thing. The car was probably sitting uneven. The Harbor Freight flux core welder has worked great for me...but switch the wire for lincoln .035 flux wire ( Lowe's or home depot ). Clean and drill small holes at the end of the cracks. They come from no real seat support on the back two bolts....remedied by subframe connectors with seat brackets. That yoke is worn. Wish I had a tool to loan you.....now I gotta get back to work. Lol
Good idea on the yoke and U joints!!
Are you sure that’s not the plug that goes into the washer fluid tank?
Those spacers are used to “help” sagging springs.
Are you sure that’s not the plug that goes into the washer fluid tank?
Those spacers are used to “help” sagging springs.
I believe the first pic, that is the connector for the DTRL (Day Time Running Lights) I think there module that get's plugged into that... it was required on the Canada cars.. I found the relay on Rockauto - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...tch+&+relay,daytime+running+light+relay,11743 I'm guessing but I'm not sure, if just buying that and plugging it in will give you DTRL (I may do it just to be different).
the 2nd pic, that is an after market spring spacer.. you put it between the coil and put a ratchet on it and turn it to lock it in... something you would pick up at pep boys back in the day... raises the car up/keeps the spring from compressing there.
New springs have been added to the list of stuff to get to fix the rear suspension! The fog lights are currently hooked up and working. The washer fluid tank appears to be all hooked up as well. It doesn't work, but there are wires running to it.
Day time running lights sounds interesting.
Day time running lights sounds interesting.
Any recommendations on the springs? Something like this maybe?
I'm also guessing that doing all 4 corners at the same time is recommended. This car is not raced, wont be raced.
Ford Mustang Eibach Pro Kit – Lowering Springs - LMR
This Mustang Eibach Pro Kit contains lowering springs that drastically improve your vehicles performance and appearance. It’s “the look that performs.”
I'm also guessing that doing all 4 corners at the same time is recommended. This car is not raced, wont be raced.