Thermostat Install Problems! (researched, but have question)

Well......do I feel stupid, but also happy!

I'm sure somebody mentioned this above (or possibly in one of the many other posts on this subject), but I thought to myself: "Why don't I rinse off the residue/puddles, warm up the car, then squeeze the upper and bypass hoses to see if any leaking comes from there." GUESS WHAT!!!!?

There is a couple tiny clear streams coming from the upper hose, so that's gonna be replaced today. I squeezed it a few times and traced the trail of coolant which now explains the whole problem. I'm gonna go ahead and replace all the hoses and see what happens.

Thanks.
 
1105 said:
What I did my last time was stick the t-stat in the housing, put a little bit of RTV on to just to hold it in place (if it got bumped it'd fall out) then put a bead around each hole on the t-stat housing (you know the big one where the radiator hose and the heater bypass hose goes to so each was sealed off) then stuck it on my intake right away... Had the bolts allready stuck through the holes in the housing, screwed them a little into the intake so they would stay, then slowly pushed the housing up to the intake and held it there while I tightned down the two bolts... Only thing I used was RTV (no other gaskets) and I dont have a leak. Other time I did it, I just used a gasket and that was all with no leaks.


I had a chrome neck that was leaking like a mofo and read RC's dilema with his and he found it was warped. When I looked at mine it was warped also. I dremeled it down as smooth as I could and did as Zach said he did and I have had no problems. I think the key is to let it sit at least 24 hours to fully cure. :nice:
 
Car Nut said:
Dude, you get up early on Saturdays!

Thanks.

I had to work :(

I hope it IS the hoses and nothing else, and dont feel bad...You ALWAYS gotta start with the basics.

When I was doing my Pharmacy residency, one of the attending physicians said this, referring to students overlooking the basics:

"Just because a dog scratches, and you find some ticks, doesnt me that it cant also have fleas."

Meaning, just beacause you find a less common cause of a problem, doesnt mean that the most "obvious" cant also be an additional cause.

JR: With that chromer...I let mine cure OVER 24 hours and it didnt help. Maybe mine was warped BEYOND repair. You know I like the chrome, but you can hardly notice the steel one not being shiny. Also, that OEM steel one has the bypass nipple welded in, not screwed on. Joe (Vibrant) swears by this water neck, and I would recommend it to anyone with a continuous problem.

Let us know how it goes Nut !
RC
 
I got the leak fixed........completely!!!

It turns out that I did seal the t-stat housing correctly (or at least the last time I did it). I also noticed that the radiator hose had a melted-looking section at the end of the hose where it connects to the water neck. The defect was not easy to see, but when I replaced the hose with a new Goodyear Gatorback one, the leaks were gone completely.

I drove the car for about 20 minutes yesterday and again for 3 hours today. No leaks!!! The car stayed nice and cool, too.

At the same time, I thought I'd go ahead and replace my serpentine belt, but now it squeaks so I'll probably put the old one back on to verify that the squeak goes away. Replacement belt is same as old belt, but after inspecting the old one it appears fine. I'm not too worried about this and I'll probably wait a week to see if the new belt stops making noises (not like a regular squeak normally associated with loose belts). Sounds like I've got a Vortech or Novi......but couldn't find one. :)
 
The belt tensioner's notch is actuallty right above the second notch on the left.......maybe too tight! I though the notch should be between the two for new belts, but now it is definitely not loose. Strange since it is the same brand and model belt I've been using for years. That old belt looks fine, so tomorrow evening I'm gonna swap back to the old one and I'm guessing the noise will go away.
 
RC,

Just checked everything again:

Pullies are moving fine. Belt position looks fine. When engine is running there is a slight bit of movement from the tensioner which is normal (so it isn't stuck or anything). I put WD-40 on a few of the pulleys (front and back) and let sit overnight.

Cranked the engine and absolutely no unusual noises. No whine whatsoever! :) Maybe the WD-40 did it OR maybe letting the belt sit another night. Belt was just put on last weekend.

Who knows, but no problems at all right now.........except for the fact that I've got a whole suspension package sitting in my house not yet installed. I'll fix that situation in a week or two.

Thanks for all the suggestions man.........I'd buy you a beer if you were nearby. :)
 
94SC50 said:
I think the key is to let it sit at least 24 hours to fully cure. :nice:

What the heck , I let mine thermostat housing sit about 15 min and I start car and I never have leak, in last two year I have taking housing about 7-10 times (tryin get good thermostat 160F or 180F ,mine on winter is 180F , on summer 160F)
 
Man, wish I would have read this before I did my install. I've spent all day with my FMS chrome water neck. What the heck was Ford thinking? Mine is warped too, this is the 3rd time I've been screwed with a FMS part.

Isn't the idea behind buying something from Ford over aftermarket that you're getting a quality item???

I aslo had problems with that bolt on the top of the neck leaking, that really doesn't fit snuggly in the housing and the teflon tape they use is worthless.
 
zenboy99 said:
Man, wish I would have read this before I did my install. I've spent all day with my FMS chrome water neck. What the heck was Ford thinking? Mine is warped too, this is the 3rd time I've been screwed with a FMS part.

Isn't the idea behind buying something from Ford over aftermarket that you're getting a quality item???

I aslo had problems with that bolt on the top of the neck leaking, that really doesn't fit snuggly in the housing and the teflon tape they use is worthless.
The problem is that it is chromed....AND REALLY CHEAP.....!!
That $10 steel one from the auto stores works fine...it just needs a good coat of paint.!
RC