180 Thermostat and new coolant leak

[bn536]

Hey, all. Appreciate any thoughts/direction. Picked up an ‘89 GT vert, 5speed. Replaced radiator with Fluidyne FHP30-93MU, thermostat with Mr. Gasket 180deg 4364, new Hayden HD fan clutch, new Dorman fan, new Gates 31523 16lb cap, all new Continental hoses (5014 kit). Stock temp gauge not currently working. Heater core is bypassed.

Since the new parts, new lower radiator hose is leaking at the water pump. Confirmed it’s not the weep hole on water pump-definitely hose. Loosened hose, rotated a bit, retightened, tried again. Cap off, let idle for a while, dry at first, then leak a few minutes in.

Drained, removed lower hose, found some imperfections in ID of new Continental hose. Thoroughly cleaned water pump and found nothing of concern. Pump neck is very clean, but hit with fine sand paper. Installed another new hose. Inspected it thoroughly before installing.

Started car and no leaks for first five minutes, then leak at same location. Left cap open and didn’t notice circulation.

I failed to check new thermostat before installing. Could it be stuck closed, then causing excessive coolant pressure and inevitably the leak? How long would the car need to idle with this setup before the thermostat would open?

 

[5.0Link]

Small pointy side towards rad.

 

[Noobz347]

A few things come to mind:

1. Your water pump casing may have a crack in it. Hose "imperfections" are generally irrelevant.
2. I agree you should change the T-stat again if for no other reason than to verify that it is correct. I would also recommend the OEM 190* T-stat and not another 180 unless your EEC is specifically tuned for 180.
3. The T-stat in the image above is fine, however, (and I know it's just an example pic) I would try to get the style that has the bypass holes drilled into it.

 

[bn536]

Appreciate the feedback. Really confident I installed it properly, but I’ve made dumber mistakes in life. I have considered the crack in the water pump, however it was dry when I removed the prior owner hardware. Figured thermostat check is easier next step.

 

[Noobz347]

When I do mine, I put it into the housing and hold it there with a couple small drops of Crazy Glue. Then, I'm 100% certain that it hasn't moved.

 

[bn536]

I used some permatex on the gasket to hold both in place (real excited about that now, LOL).

Great idea on bypass holes, BTW.

 

[foxbodybill89]

The OEM 192 degree Motorcraft thermostat also has a slight bump in the stamping that indexes to the thermostat housing so the jiggle pin is at the top when you put it together. I have smeared a thin layer of Permatex thermostat housing gasket maker on the inside of the hose before clamping on to seal some troublesome leaks. Let it sit at least overnight to cure before adding coolant if you do this.

 

[revhead347]

Or just drill a hole in it.

Kurt

 

[from6to8]

When I do mine, I put it into the housing and hold it there with a couple small drops of Crazy Glue. Then, I'm 100% certain that it hasn't moved.

Is it easy to get it off when you need to lol?

Second question is since the bolts do not go through water does it? Since it doesn't I'm thinking, is it necessary to put well I guess it's a pretty dumb question because it's irrelevant. I guess some people put a little breast healing on them. I was more so when I first started the question thinking how about the thread sealant with PTFE

 

[from6to8]

A few things come to mind:

1. Your water pump casing may have a crack in it. Hose "imperfections" are generally irrelevant.
2. I agree you should change the T-stat again if for no other reason than to verify that it is correct. I would also recommend the OEM 190* T-stat and not another 180 unless your EEC is specifically tuned for 180.
3. The T-stat in the image above is fine, however, (and I know it's just an example pic) I would try to get the style that has the bypass holes drilled into it.

If the car is tuned for 180 is it still okay to run a 195?

 

[Noobz347]

If you're using two small dots, you can break it out of there any time with a little thumb pressure.

If you're tuned for a 180, I would use a 180 but it's not the end of the world. A 180 tune should go into close loop faster.

 

[TOOLOW91]

A few things come to mind:

1. Your water pump casing may have a crack in it. Hose "imperfections" are generally irrelevant.
2. I agree you should change the T-stat again if for no other reason than to verify that it is correct. I would also recommend the OEM 190* T-stat and not another 180 unless your EEC is specifically tuned for 180.
3. The T-stat in the image above is fine, however, (and I know it's just an example pic) I would try to get the style that has the bypass holes drilled into it.

I drill the holes in every car . Makes bleeding the system a breeze .

 

[from6to8]

I drill the holes in every car . Makes bleeding the system a breeze .

I guess for those who have never drilled holes in their thermostat that's not the end of the world lol?

 

[from6to8]

If you're using two small dots, you can break it out of there any time with a little thumb pressure.

If you're tuned for a 180, I would use a 180 but it's not the end of the world. A 180 tune should go into close loop faster.

Okay it was either going to be that or a little permatex LOL but I think I like that idea better

 

[from6to8]

If you're using two small dots, you can break it out of there any time with a little thumb pressure.

If you're tuned for a 180, I would use a 180 but it's not the end of the world. A 180 tune should go into close loop faster.

If you use the sticky gasket rather you use that or not do you still put a little permatex to hold the gasket to the housing? I'm thinking about just putting a little dab anyway even with the crazy glue for the stat just to ensure Ensure no possibility of a leak LOL...

In case that confused here I'm talking about putting a little RTV to hold the gasket to the housing even though it may have the sticky side

 

[General karthief]

I put a thin smear of blue RTV on one side, stick the thermostat in the housing, 'weep hole' up, press on the gasket, and let it set for a few minutes, smear a thin layer on the intake side, bolt it together.
I've done it this way every since I witnessed a filmed demonstration at a car show, black RTV for oil pan, valve covers. Blue on electric water pump, t-stat housing, let set up for 24 hrs and ran it a couple heat cycles, a few days later they removed the bolts from oil pan, valve covers, t-stat housing and water pump, ran the engine at different RPMs a few heat cycles and no leaks, the electric water pump did fall off tho, go figure

 

[Noobz347]

If you use the sticky gasket rather you use that or not do you still put a little permatex to hold the gasket to the housing? I'm thinking about just putting a little dab anyway even with the crazy glue for the stat just to ensure Ensure no possibility of a leak LOL...

In case that confused here I'm talking about putting a little RTV to hold the gasket to the housing even though it may have the sticky side

Disclaimer:

There's no warranty offered of implied for deviation from the above steps.

 

[from6to8]

Disclaimer:

There's no warranty offered of implied for deviation from the above steps.

which above steps lol?

 

[from6to8]

I put a thin smear of blue RTV on one side, stick the thermostat in the housing, 'weep hole' up, press on the gasket, and let it set for a few minutes, smear a thin layer on the intake side, bolt it together.
I've done it this way every since I witnessed a filmed demonstration at a car show, black RTV for oil pan, valve covers. Blue on electric water pump, t-stat housing, let set up for 24 hrs and ran it a couple heat cycles, a few days later they removed the bolts from oil pan, valve covers, t-stat housing and water pump, ran the engine at different RPMs a few heat cycles and no leaks, the electric water pump did fall off tho, go figure

I have 3 thermostats including the one I removed and none have weep holes lol.........

I'm assuming black rtv which i have would be fine?

how did the run the engine with bolts removed from all those things ?

 

[General karthief]

I have 3 thermostats including the one I removed and none have weep holes lol.........

I'm assuming black rtv which i have would be fine?

how did the run the engine with bolts removed from all those things ?

black is fine, drill a 1/8" hole in the top just below the edge like 1 /4" ?
that engine ran fine, no oil leaks, they claimed 100 hours running time but the water pump thing didn't work for obvious reasons.
they had the engine at the show and would start it up, I'm sure there was a bit of mechanical majic someplace, I remember the guy that sold a metal/oil treatment at car shows (long time ago) that said you could drain the oil from the engine after treatment and it would run fine, no oil, had an engine there that he demonstrated.
I ask "where are they now??"