These carburetor lines...

[Hairy W Bush]

First, which carburetor is this? Motorcraft? Autolite?
Second, what is the name for the wrapped up line called? It broke off right at the manifold and I am having trouble getting it all the way out.
There is a vacuum line already hooked up right by it too and my distributor vacuum advance has nowhere to go. Is this the wrong carburetor?

 

[2+2GT]

It appears to be the correct Autolite 2100. Check the stamped numbers on the carb flange by the left-front hold-down nut.

The insulated tube is the choke stove heat supply. There is a parallel cold air line.

I'm wondering why you have a fuel filter attached to your fuel filter.

The advance is the steel line attached to the right side of the carb mounting flange. It attaches directly to the front of the vacuum advance.

Oh, and you have the wrong heater hose in the clip on the side of the carb.

 

[Hairy W Bush]

That's the way the fuel filters were and from what I understand, that's how it's supposed to be. And I see 116 circled on the side of the carb in front of the throttle linkage.

Is the cold parallel line the one that goes from the manifold to just under the top of the carb?

I am confused in your last statement.

thanks though 2+2

 

[Hairy W Bush]

I see. so that vacuum line does go there like my neighbor said. but mine is blocked off with a plug (or bolt) for some reason. what size fitting do i need?
any idea on how to fix that broken line in the manifold and where to get a new one?

 

[2+2GT]

That's the way the fuel filters were and from what I understand, that's how it's supposed to be.

Not a chance. The steel filter on the carb inlet is factory. That other glass POS is from Pep Boys or Wal-Mart, etc. Your pump-to-carb line has been cut down or bent to allow that.

And I see 116 circled on the side of the carb in front of the throttle linkage.

OK, that makes it a 1.165" venturi casting. I never heard of a 1.16, your Mustang 289 engine should have a 1.14. The original application is stamped blow that, on the flange.

Is the cold parallel line the one that goes from the manifold to just under the top of the carb?

Yes, it keeps dirt from getting into the choke and choke stove.

I see. so that vacuum line does go there like my neighbor said. but mine is blocked off with a plug (or bolt) for some reason. what size fitting do i need?

It's an oddball compression fitting, and comes with the new steel advance line you apparently need.

any idea on how to fix that broken line in the manifold and where to get a new one?

It's a 1/4" steel tube, just drill out the old ones, and insert the new ones. These pre-bent lines, (and don't forget the fuel line) are available from many sources, the place I get my stuff is here:

Mustang Parts, Shelby Parts, and Restoration Services

You can even download their catalog here:

http://www.mustangbarn.com/catalog.pdf

 

[Hairy W Bush]

I made a mistake. It does say 114. What's the cfm then?
I have a brand new fuel line and it doesn't come close to reaching the fuel inlet. All that I have on it is the actual distance to the carburetor.
I'll have to call Glazier about that distributor and stove line.

 

[2+2GT]

I made a mistake. It does say 114. What's the cfm then?
I have a brand new fuel line and it doesn't come close to reaching the fuel inlet. All that I have on it is the actual distance to the carburetor.
I'll have to call Glazier about that distributor and stove line.

If your steel fuel line doesn't reach the carb it's the wrong one.

I think the 1.14 carb is like 300 cfm. Plenty on a stock engine. The single best thing you could do for performance, aside from the normal tune-up, is to pull the distributor and have it professionally curved. I have done a lot of these, and I have NEVER seen a distributor that was "in limits".

Trying to tune-up your car without doing this is like spending the whole afternoon tuning your engine, then letting your 6-year-old play with the adjusting screws on the carb. Not gonna run its best.

 

[Hairy W Bush]

I got my line from Champion Mustang: http://www.championmustang.com/6667-pump-to-carburetor-fuel-line-stainless-289-p-5851.html

My distributor is re-manufactured, but I forget which brand because I don't have the box or receipt.
I fixed the stove line. Drilled out the old and just slit the rest of the line in.

 

[2+2GT]

Hmmm…

Looks like the right line, except you couldn't pay me to use stainless steel.

There should be about 1/2" between the fuel line and the inlet filter. If you look here, you can see the steel line goes right to the filter on the carb, with a very short hose connecting them. You can also see the correct hose is clipped to the choke cap.

 

[Hairy W Bush]

I don't know, that's odd. I'd hate to try and bend it...even with that bender I have somewhere.
What's wrong with stainless?
Whoever did the heater hoses made it too short then.

 

[2+2GT]

It's more difficult to get and keep a seal with stainless, and if the bends are even slightly "off", it's harder to correct. I'm not paying double for something that's harder to use. Even the people who make 'em don't like 'em.

 

[Hairy W Bush]

well I ordered that metal vacuum line earlier. will be here later in the week though.
thanks again 2+2

 

[2+2GT]

You should be all set, then.