Think I blew a head gasket. Could it be intake gasket?

kickascii

Founding Member
Apr 8, 2000
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Inwood,WV
Started running on 7 cyl. after a 2nd gear pull. I got it home and white smoke out drivers side exhaust and missing on 1 cyl.

Before I tear it down, and take my head off, is there any way to tell if the intake gasket is the cause?

If it is the head, I'm going to get ARP head bolts and FPP-1011-1 gaskets, right? Anything else I'll need?

Oh what intake gaskets do you recommend?

Thanks!
 
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The only thing other than a blown HG that would cause white smoke would be if your intake gasket ruptured from one of the coolant passages into intake port on the head.

The best thing to do would be run a compression check and that should tell you if its a headgasket failure. Also check the oil and make sure that it isn't contaminated with coolant. If it is it will look like a milky chocolate milkshake. Coolant and the bearings do not play nicely together.

If it is a headgasket then the gaskets you mention should be fine as well as the ARP bolts. If you can swing the added cost of ARP studs that would be better especially since you are FI. Make sure that you coat the lower head bolts with a teflon sealer since they run into the water jackets.

As far as intake gaskets go I have always run the FEL 1250.
 
I'm carbed...

If the intake gasket ruptured, wouldn't water get in the oil then too? I dunno.

I'll do a compression test on the drivers side since thats where it might be. Looks like that is the big test. (vomit)
 
well if you are buying arp head bolts I would go the extra $ and get the arp studs instead. Also for head gaskets I went with ROL HG32841HR for N/A and HG32841HT for boost or juice apps.
 
I'll check those gaskets out... Being boosted, is there a certain psi to stay under and be safe? I'm running 12lbs now.

Any tips for installing the head studs?

Should I use the arp sealer and lubricant?

How long should it take me to change my drivers side gasket? Carbed and no accessories...
 
If you have the engine down that far already it would be down right dumb not to do both head gaskets. Get good ARP bolts or studs and Felpro 1011-2 gaskets. I would also have heads checked for flatness and warpage. You might want to keep an eye on plugs and maybe go up a jet size or two, how much timing?
 
I failed to mention that I just put this new motor in. It's a stock rebuild that I bought from a place in Houston, TX. It has an E303 cam in it too.

Yeah, sucks. Just got it all back together and now this. It ran fine for about 10 miles then puff - 7 cylinders.

After noticing the steam coming out of the drivers side exhaust, I took the plug out of #4 and a little water on it. #5 was dry.
 
def. do both heads and use the 1011-2 they have a steel fire ring and will fend off detonation alot better. unless you have your heads o-ringed? I would also go with the studs in your case roots blowers make boost!!! Unless you have heads ported I would just use a 1250 intake gasket set and a good sealer.
 
thanks for all your help guys. I'm gonna do (sigh) head gaskets, arp studs, intake gaskets, and arp lube and sealer as directed.

How many hours does this take the average guy? I've replaced them before but I forgot how long it took me. Probably all together about 5 hours.
 
You can more than have that done in 5 hours just take your time and enjoy the piece of mind of knowing its done right this time. You will also want to get oil for oil changes to get rid of the coolant in it and grab a new set of Autolite23's while your at it. Good Luck and remember..... front means front!!!
 
yeah they have instructions in em. run ARP teflon paste on bottom head stud threads and use moly lube on all the threads and nuts and washers to insure a good torque reading. If you have a bit of coolant seeping on bottom studs when you first fire up it will go away dont worry, just use the teflon paste not tape.
 
154-4001 is the stud kit : 154-3601 is the bolt kit
it will not matter if pushrods and rockers get crossed up, the Vic Jr's are a bit much. a bigger combustion chamber will lower compression keeping you safer but I feel your problem was just crappy stock gaskets. Get the good stuff on there and keep an eye on your tune it will be OK
 
If you were to build a good forged bottom end and put in a healthy blower cam and spin that baby to the moon with 20 psi they would be awesome. A better set of cylinder heads would definately liven that thing up as well as a better camshaft. If you could come across a set of 64cc Windsor JR's on the cheap throw them on. They are virtually indestructable and are worth about 30 horse over stockers, get a cheap used F cam and you could problably throw close to an extra 40 horse at that thing plus the option for more boost, with a good tune.