Think I'll need aftermarket rad?

Jason 302

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Aug 9, 2003

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Dec 22, 2004

#1

• Dec 22, 2004

• #1

Well, my engine mods are in the sig, car ran around 195 (195 t-stat) with the ported E7's. It crept up to around 210-215 one hot day setting in traffic (which never happens where I live). Will my AFR's make my car run hotter? It'll make more power obviously, but I've heard alum heads will run cooler. I also picked up a cooler t-stat (180). Think I'll need an aftermarket radiator? I live in the country so traffic jams and stop and go traffic I hardly ever encounter. And if so which brand? I've been looking at the FMS aluminium which summit sells for around $250. Also, is that radiator a 2 row or 3 row? Some places describe it as a 2 row while others say it's a 3 row?

 

5.0Droptop

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#2

• Dec 22, 2004

• #2

mine didnt change temps any when i did afr heads

 

M

matm347

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#3

• Dec 22, 2004

• #3

Aluminum will transfer heat better than the cast iron stockers.

The FMS is a large two row, just as wide as the older FMS brass three row, which I assume is the reason for the confusion.

Be careful with your T-stat selection as the colder you get, the harder your cooling system has to work to keep it at that temp. This can cause your thermostat to stay open constantly which is not a good thing.

Combustion is most efficient at around 200 degrees anyway, which is what most car makers run in their cars. I personally have a 195 in the ~450 NA HP weekend street car and have not had any problems with overheating.

 

89MustangGX

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Jul 3, 2001

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Dec 22, 2004

#4

• Dec 22, 2004

• #4

It sounds like your cooling system may need some attention, I don't think it's due to the mods you have done, probably age more than anything else.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Dec 22, 2004

#5

• Dec 22, 2004

• #5

so the only time it heated up on you is when you were idling in traffic?
if so, i would address the fan situation (which is what?).

good luck.

 

Jason 302

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Dec 23, 2004

#6

• Dec 23, 2004

• #6

I didn't think 210-215 was really that hot? Everything is new except the radiator. New water pump, new t-stat, and a Black Magic electric fan that's about a year and a half old. Do you guys think I should stick with the 195 t-stat or put the 180 in?

 

5.0Droptop

...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??

Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here

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Dec 23, 2004

#7

• Dec 23, 2004

• #7

i run a 180....

 

90mustangGT

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#8

• Dec 23, 2004

• #8

HISSIN50 said:

so the only time it heated up on you is when you were idling in traffic?
if so, i would address the fan situation (which is what?).

good luck.

Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking. When your moving air is being pushed through the radiator, but not when sitting. So you say when moving, there is no problems but when sitting there is, so maby you need more to keep air running through the radiator. I would put in the 180* and then turn the BM fan all the way to the coolest setting.

 

Jason 302

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Dec 23, 2004

#9

• Dec 23, 2004

• #9

90mustangGT said:

turn the BM fan all the way to the coolest setting.

Click to expand...

That's the way I've always ran it. I don't think I have a cooling issue, I'm just asking if the changes I'm making will. Unless it gets up to 215+ regularly, I don't think I'll be spending money on anything. The only thing that would be inadequate, I think, would be the radiator. That fan is rated at 2800 cfm and the alternator is new, although I do have underdrive pulleys. Are there electric fans out there for 87-93 that are better?

 

QDRHRSE

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Dec 31, 2002

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Dec 23, 2004

#10

• Dec 23, 2004

• #10

At first I would say no radiator upgrade but after thinking about it I say upgrade. One of the first things that I do when I start on a new car is get a 3 row radiator. While aluminum is the best, it is not the most durable. For your application a high efficiency 3 row recore of your stock radiator would be your best choice. It should cost you 1/2 of the Motorsport Radiator.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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#11

• Dec 23, 2004

• #11

you are right, 210-215 is not that hot with iron heads. overheating with iron is considered to be 40+ more degrees.

i did not understand what you were asking - i thought you were not happy with the temps you saw.
right, alum should dissipate heat better. just remember it also warps easier.

good luck.

 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because

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#12

• Dec 23, 2004

• #12

My old cooling system setup: GoDan 3 row copper/brass, BM fan, 180* t-stat, stock replacment WP. Running this on U/D pullies as well. The temp gauge hardly moved, I have an autometer. Ran the same temp all year around. If it went over 195, I knew that either the fan wasn't set right or the coolant was low. I poked a hole in the GoDan 3 row. I am going to probally get a Griffin next. The GoDan (pepboys) worked great but now that the prices of the really nice one's has dropped so much, might as well splurge. The Griffin 31x19x3 is only $179 from Summit. It does not have a drain on but there are other ways to drain a radiator. It also does not have a tranny cooler, but if your serous and have an auto, your running a seperate cooler anyways, right.

 

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crunchie12268

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Dec 23, 2004

#13

• Dec 23, 2004

• #13

aren't those black magic fans kinda notorious for not pushing enough air. I was just curious.

 

90mustangGT

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#14

• Dec 23, 2004

• #14

crunchie12268 said:

aren't those black magic fans kinda notorious for not pushing enough air. I was just curious.

Click to expand...

They are very strong, you should feel one blow air. The problem with the BM fan is that it is a single 15" fan and the shrowd is very small, so it only pulls air on about a 18x18" part of the radaitor. If they came with a wider shrowd, even with a weaker fan motor, they would cool better.